Window unit style AC

ZINGERLITE wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:

ZINGERLITE wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:
You should be able to take it to your dealer and they can make any repair or adjustment in just a couple hours while you wait.

Im having trouble getting ahold of the dealer which kind of sucks. Google reviews lead me to believe i will have a ton of down time if i drop it off. Hind sight i will check out the dealer next time i buy at a camper show. Might have to give it a go myself.

You could try calling the manufacturer and supply them with your details. See if they can give a boot to the dealer to contact you or if they can recommend another service shop or if they will be okay with you doing it. Then you'll be covered.

Is this the status quo with warranty work?

All I can tell you is my Heartland brand has had some issues and I didn't want to take it back to the dealer I got it from for work quality and attitude. I emailed Heartland service and received a reply that if I am capable to do the work they would be willing to send warranty parts as well as honor warranty. They even offered to reimburse me for a LP line for our stove though I ended up just redoing the flare fitting myself. It's always better if you have an email from the manufacturer to cover your butt.

So if that is your question on status quo I'd have to say sure, but that moisture problem isn't.

jerryjay11 wrote:

ZINGERLITE wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:
You should be able to take it to your dealer and they can make any repair or adjustment in just a couple hours while you wait.

Im having trouble getting ahold of the dealer which kind of sucks. Google reviews lead me to believe i will have a ton of down time if i drop it off. Hind sight i will check out the dealer next time i buy at a camper show. Might have to give it a go myself.

You could try calling the manufacturer and supply them with your details. See if they can give a boot to the dealer to contact you or if they can recommend another service shop or if they will be okay with you doing it. Then you'll be covered.

Is this the status quo with warranty work?

ZINGERLITE wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:
You should be able to take it to your dealer and they can make any repair or adjustment in just a couple hours while you wait.

Im having trouble getting ahold of the dealer which kind of sucks. Google reviews lead me to believe i will have a ton of down time if i drop it off. Hind sight i will check out the dealer next time i buy at a camper show. Might have to give it a go myself.

You could try calling the manufacturer and supply them with your details. See if they can give a boot to the dealer to contact you or if they can recommend another service shop or if they will be okay with you doing it. Then you'll be covered.

Gdetrailer wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:
Contrary to popular belief if you placed a window AC on a level surface, like a table top, and ran it the design of the condensate drain from the evaporator to the condenser side of the pan would allow water to flow via something called gravity. I've clean many a window AC condensate pan and proved this while testing on a flat surface.

The Ac set up is similar to my Class B Xplorer I had only the AC was in an overhead above the bed and I never had to roll the front wheels of the Class B on blocks to allow the water to drain, nor did I have any problem.

Because it is a new unit, under warranty, and as much as it isn't a pleasant thought, I'd bring it in for warranty. Either that you have to pull the AC out, remove the AC cover and see if there is anything blocking the path for the condensate to get to the condenser coil.

Some other causes are: fresh air vent not closed properly, evaporator coil needs cleaning, filter needs cleaning, not sealed well around the AC cabinet, camper windows open, folks in and out of the camper, cooking with vent fan off or vent door not opening.

When you start leaning your camper to correct the AC drainage problem you may run into problems with your refrigerator being unlevel. Start with leveling your camper and check those areas I mentioned above.

:R

Regardless of YOUR "superiorness", in your own mind, the window AC manufacturers documents CONTRADICT YOUR "EXPERIMENT ON A FLAT SURFACE".

Yes, the pan does "slope" slightly to the outside, but it CAN AND WILL "overflow" into the INSIDE under certain conditions and IF it IS LEVEL.

I have selected at totally random just ONE of thousands of window AC manuals that CLEARLY point out for correct installation to slightly lean the AC off level.



PLEASE NOTICE the manufacturer IS indicating 1/4" drop!

In fact, the way the A/C unit window kit has been designed the A?C WILL have a slight off level lean to the outside.

Additionally, the SAME manual explains what to do in HIGH HUMIDITY WEATHER IF THE CONDENSATE PAN OVERFLOWS TO THE INSIDE.



The same page also explains the slinger..

JERRYJ, READ THE MANUFACTURERS MANUALS INSTEAD OF WRITING YOUR OWN, THEY "KNOW BETTER" SINCE THEY DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED IT!!!

Over the years, I have become pretty good at installing window A/C units for people and have never had one ever overflow on the inside.

I suspect that the RV manufacturer "ASSUMED" just like JERRYJ that the A/C unit CAN be installed level. The RV manufacturer most likely made their own wall installation kit..

OP can take it back to dealer to see if manufacturer will pay warranty on the labor to re-position the A/C unit with the PROPER OFF LEVEL LEAN to the outside.

If Dealer and manufacturer is unwilling to help then the OP may need to rework the A/C mount themselves to allow for a little off level lean.

Otherwise OP will have to live with it as is and prop one side of the trailer a bit higher..

As far as the fridge operating "off level" goes, well, I wonder where all the "off level operation never hurt my fridge people" have gone??

In the past I have been lambasted for TELLING people that they MUST run their fridge TOTALLY LEVEL.. Or suffer the wrath of a dead fridge.. Its no wonder that over the last couple of years I have pretty much quit trying to help people on this forum..

You feel better now? I do not believe I or anyone here attempting to help another deserve to be berated. Corrections okay, but the use of CAPS and way you are writing doesn't help.

First I never stated the WINDOW AC shouldn't be slightly tilted. As you stated the install kit does this. 1/4 inch isn't that much, but 3 inches as I have seen on many window units is just overboard. The RV manufacturer I'm sure is aware of that. And I'm sure they are aware of the condensate drain plug. And I'll bet the compartment the back of the AC is mounted is sloped as was it on my Class B Xplorer. My intent is not to instruct the OP how to remove and install the AC, but items that he can check without voiding the manufacturer's warranty or dealer warranty. Thus I suggested to take it back to the dealer after doing operator checks.

Also I didn't suggest that an RV Fridge needs to be perfectly level, just that in attempting to correct the AC problem he may cause leveling problems with the fridge.

You could have posted this in manner that was helpful rather than ridicule and I would have said, "Oh that was very helpful and thanks." I am a service tech and not an installer and would have appreciated the information.

FWIW, I purchased a GE 5K BTU window A/C, just recently. I'm using it in the S&B instead of running the houses central air. It has the slinger fan and instructs to remove a plug in the condensate pan if the condensate doesn't drain correctly. Since I DIY'd a platform for the little A/C, I was able to tilt it adequately so that the water drains adequately. I can see how this may be a problem in an RV as they typically house them in a wall cabinet where the condensate may pool under/alongside the pan and water may then find it's way inside.

The fix may be to pull the unit and check level inside the cabinet housing. You could then adjust accordingly and, possibly, plumb a drain pipe to the outside so water can't fill the pan.

Good luck with your A/C, some fiddling should bring good results.

jerryjay11 wrote:
You should be able to take it to your dealer and they can make any repair or adjustment in just a couple hours while you wait.

Im having trouble getting ahold of the dealer which kind of sucks. Google reviews lead me to believe i will have a ton of down time if i drop it off. Hind sight i will check out the dealer next time i buy at a camper show. Might have to give it a go myself.

Gdetrailer wrote:
I have selected at totally random just ONE of thousands of window AC manuals that CLEARLY point out for correct installation to slightly lean the AC off level.

PLEASE NOTICE the manufacturer IS indicating 1/4" drop!

On a camper, virtually the entire unit is inside, so the illustration simply doesn't apply. On a camper the water is going onto the pan, regardless of how the A/C is tilted. In my experience, the pan extends to the inside beyond any openings on the bottom of the A/C. Any inside leak is much more likely due to the pan than the unit itself. The A/C could be mounted at an upward angle and still end up draining well with a proper drain pan.

jerryjay11 wrote:
Contrary to popular belief if you placed a window AC on a level surface, like a table top, and ran it the design of the condensate drain from the evaporator to the condenser side of the pan would allow water to flow via something called gravity. I've clean many a window AC condensate pan and proved this while testing on a flat surface.

The Ac set up is similar to my Class B Xplorer I had only the AC was in an overhead above the bed and I never had to roll the front wheels of the Class B on blocks to allow the water to drain, nor did I have any problem.

Because it is a new unit, under warranty, and as much as it isn't a pleasant thought, I'd bring it in for warranty. Either that you have to pull the AC out, remove the AC cover and see if there is anything blocking the path for the condensate to get to the condenser coil.

Some other causes are: fresh air vent not closed properly, evaporator coil needs cleaning, filter needs cleaning, not sealed well around the AC cabinet, camper windows open, folks in and out of the camper, cooking with vent fan off or vent door not opening.

When you start leaning your camper to correct the AC drainage problem you may run into problems with your refrigerator being unlevel. Start with leveling your camper and check those areas I mentioned above.

:R

Regardless of YOUR "superiorness", in your own mind, the window AC manufacturers documents CONTRADICT YOUR "EXPERIMENT ON A FLAT SURFACE".

Yes, the pan does "slope" slightly to the outside, but it CAN AND WILL "overflow" into the INSIDE under certain conditions and IF it IS LEVEL.

I have selected at totally random just ONE of thousands of window AC manuals that CLEARLY point out for correct installation to slightly lean the AC off level.



PLEASE NOTICE the manufacturer IS indicating 1/4" drop!

In fact, the way the A/C unit window kit has been designed the A?C WILL have a slight off level lean to the outside.

Additionally, the SAME manual explains what to do in HIGH HUMIDITY WEATHER IF THE CONDENSATE PAN OVERFLOWS TO THE INSIDE.



The same page also explains the slinger..

JERRYJ, READ THE MANUFACTURERS MANUALS INSTEAD OF WRITING YOUR OWN, THEY "KNOW BETTER" SINCE THEY DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED IT!!!

Over the years, I have become pretty good at installing window A/C units for people and have never had one ever overflow on the inside.

I suspect that the RV manufacturer "ASSUMED" just like JERRYJ that the A/C unit CAN be installed level. The RV manufacturer most likely made their own wall installation kit..

OP can take it back to dealer to see if manufacturer will pay warranty on the labor to re-position the A/C unit with the PROPER OFF LEVEL LEAN to the outside.

If Dealer and manufacturer is unwilling to help then the OP may need to rework the A/C mount themselves to allow for a little off level lean.

Otherwise OP will have to live with it as is and prop one side of the trailer a bit higher..

As far as the fridge operating "off level" goes, well, I wonder where all the "off level operation never hurt my fridge people" have gone??

In the past I have been lambasted for TELLING people that they MUST run their fridge TOTALLY LEVEL.. Or suffer the wrath of a dead fridge.. Its no wonder that over the last couple of years I have pretty much quit trying to help people on this forum..

Other folks here obviously know a lot more about a/c technology than I do, but what I can say is, we had this type act in a trailer for 6 years and never had a single drop of water inside because of it.

That sloshing really shouldn't occur because the design of the window AC or RV roof AC uses the condensate water to splash on the condenser coil to make it more efficient. There is never enough water there to slosh while driving.since the condenser fan has a slinger ring on it to splash it on the condenser where it is force through the coil and outside.

From you saying it occurs when all is closed up I would suspect the vent is open, cabinet isn't sealed properly to prevent outside air from entering or the condensate path is restricted to the condenser coil. It is just a trough that directs the condensate to the condenser. Can't see any of this unless the AC is removed and it's cabinet is removed.

You should be able to take it to your dealer and they can make any repair or adjustment in just a couple hours while you wait.