Winterize with low point drains

Yes, blow out the lines with your compressor set no higher than 40 psi. Elbows in the lines may not just drain fully with the low point drains plus there will be slack points in the lines that may not drain without help.

P traps on the sinks and shower will be fine with just pouring in the antifreeze. Remember to open the toilet flush valve and outside shower too. Some people get by with just blowing out the lines while others prefer to pump the antifreeze throughout the lines. Up to you on how comfortable you are on doing either.

Remember to bypass the water heater and drain it separately.

If you feel lucky, try it. I tried that years ago and then blew out the lines to see how much water was left. After that I always blew out the lines. For me antifreeze only goes in the traps and the pooper.

I found my low point drains drain a very small amount of water (or anti-freeze). They don't drain from the bathroom. I've tested this by opening both hot and cold low point, let it drain till it finished, then closing them off again.

Then blow the lines and see what comes out. Actually, quite a lot, especially in the bathroom faucets and toilet.

What you need to do is blow your lines (or use antifreeze). After doing that, then open your low point and let whatever drain out.

You purchased a very expensive toy when you got your RV. Don't try to cut corners that may eventually cost you a LOT more than you ever imagine. Take the time and do it right. In the long run, you are saving yourself time and money. It so simple to blow or antifreeze your water lines, takes only 10 minutes, I just don't understand why anyone would want to take risks at what could be a very expensive and time consuming-frustrating repair come spring!

Drain fresh tank first, then run you water pump to get all the water out if the pump and lines into the fresh tank. If your pump has a clear pre-filter, unscrew that and empty last.

I would not solely trust the low point drains to get water out of your lines. I would definitely use an oil-less air compressor set at 45 psi.

Don't forget about the water heater bypass, outside shower and black tank flush.

Even if the low point got all the water (unlikely) you would still have potential problem with things like the toilet valve - suggest you blow.

Ok I will blow out the lines I don't mind doing it right, taking the time. With the other shortcuts I have fixed from the factory I guess you are correct that not all lines would be setup correctly to actually go to those low point drains. I do have to research the heater bypass I am not familiar with it.

Blow out the black tank flush as well and the outside shower.

After i use gravity to drain the freshwater holding tank and use the low-point drain to partially clear the water lines,I blow some air thru my system to get rid of any more hidden water which collects at the elbows.

I then pump antifreeze thru the system so it does not mix and dilute with residual water in the system, i feel this gives the full benefit of the antifreeze and it runs thru the water pump as well.

I then blow out the antifreeze because the system is now protected fully.
There is NO need to leave the antifreeze in the system, i flush it so it doesn't leave antifreeze residue in the lines.
When springtime comes around again, i just have to fill it with water and im on the road again.

You could do that if you know for sure all the lines drain, fittings especially. A little water in the lines won’t hurt a thing as long as it can’t freeze the line solid. All the part time cabin owners here drain their systems using gravity.
That said, I blow mine out.

We all have a winterizing method. I stopped blowing out the lines when I blew camp water check valve.

I pump antifreeze through the water pump, out each faucet and down the drain. Then I open the low point drains and make sure some antifreeze flows out the pipes.

Then I flush a bit more antifreeze though the faucets and down the drain.

This leaves antifreeze in the P traps and some in the black and gray tanks to mix with their residual water.

Remember, the hot water tank has been drained and bypassed before starting the winterizing process.

Ok, so maybe I am missing something.

People say to bypass water heater before winterizing. If I only use air on lines to blow out, why do I have to bypass WH? Obviously the WH drain gets pulled and all water is out. But I never bypass, just blow air through the everything, including WH. I do blow out one thing at a time. And I do use pink in the traps and tanks.

Am I missing something that I should bypassing the WH?