Winterized Water Heater

SoundGuy wrote:

Dick_B wrote:
If the bolt you referred to is the drain (for Atwood) or anode (if Suburban) it should have a hex head about size 15/16 (as I remember) and the easiest way to get it out is with a socket.

Sort of, but not quite. ;) If it's an Atwood water heater then the authentic Atwood plug socket size is 7/8", if it's an aftermarket plug it could be 15/16" ... fortunately Camco offers this handy RV Water Heater Drain and Wrench Kit that will handle both sizes. If the water heater is a Suburban then the correct socket size for removing the anode rod is 1 & 1/16". If removing the anode rod proves to be a real bear to remove then a socket wrench with a breaker bar may be your best bet.

Correct/.......
2 different size hex heads for Atwood but only because Atwood changed sizes in 2004 when they changed sizes on the T&P Relief Valves and changed control design of WHs.
2003 and previous models used the 7/8" hex head drain plug along with 1/2" NPT T&P Relief Valve and separate AC/DC controls
2004 and newer models incorporated one set of T-stats/DC Circuit Board, 3/4" NPT T&P Relief Valve and 15/16" hex head drain plug



OP........
Glad you got that stuck anode rod out.
Just for your information ----your water heater (Suburban) uses a steel GLASS-LINED tank (hence the need for anode rod)
Sounds like previous owner didn't routinely remove anode rod which would contribute to the steel rod snapping off of hex head.
And it was probably an aluminum rod which can collect calcium deposits which can make rod difficult to remove thru drain hole.

2 versions of rods are available.
Magnesium (OEM Standard)...provides greater cathodic protection but dissolves quicker.
Can react with bacteria causing a sulfurous smell
Aluminum (OEM Optional)....last longer so lower cathodic protection but adequate. Can 'swell/deposits' making it harder to remove.

Aluminum rod has a 'flat' hex head
Magnesium rod has a 'raised bump' on hex head