Winterized Water Heater

[engelstine]

2014 GulfStream Streamlite 28Rbb. So I live in MI and obviously it has already froze and actually been in the 40/50's the last few days so Thawed also. My question is when I went through and drained the water for winter, I opened all the valves ran the pump till it was spitting air. Opened the low point plugs underneath and also the freshwater plug, poured A/F down all drains and toilet.

What Im concerned about is the Water Heater, I only drained it by opening the relief valve while pumping the water out until it was also just spitting air. My problem was that when I tried to get the large Bolt from the bottom of the Water heater panel on the outside, it was so rusted that I actually broke my channel locks in half. I was over at my storage place over the weekend and popped open the relief valve again and some water trickled out so I let it until nothing. My question is at this point is there something I should do or has the damage (or hopefully lack there of) been done?

[engelstine]

Thanks for the info. I will leave the new Rod out until spring. I may ask my Father In-law for his Boroscope and take a peek inside as it also has a light on it. Cant hurt lol. Glad I got it done yesterday, looking at forecast I wont see above 32 until Jan 10th, and nothing above 35 for the foreseeable future.

[MFL]

engelstine wrote:
Would that tank damage just from the ice? It was not like the entire tank was full, I pulled the Relief and the Hot Water line under the trailer so there isnt much ice in the Tank, just a block at the bottom where the Rod is. If the tank didnt expand do to the ice im not what other damage it could cause.

If you drained the WH tank by opening the relief valve, while the low point drains were open, there should not be much ice in the tank. With a lot of room to expand, I don't think your tank is damaged, so I would be very careful to not do anything that could cause damage.

There is a plastic inlet pipe in the bottom rear of tank, but not much else, other than the glass lining to break. The electric element is up off from the bottom, should be okay.

When I flush my tank, usually twice per season, I look inside with an LED piston light. It lights up the whole inside, so I can see to better aim my cleaning wand where needed.

Jerry

[westend]

engelstine wrote:
Would that tank damage just from the ice? It was not like the entire tank was full, I pulled the Relief and the Hot Water line under the trailer so there isnt much ice in the Tank, just a block at the bottom where the Rod is. If the tank didnt expand do to the ice im not what other damage it could cause.

Probably not. If there was just a bit of water on the bottom, there is plenty of room for expansion. I wouldn't mess with the tank at all, during the Winter. The threads on the drain hole won't rust much at very low temps. If you're worried about that, wipe some silicone plumbers grease onto the threads.

[SoundGuy]

Dick_B wrote:
If the bolt you referred to is the drain (for Atwood) or anode (if Suburban) it should have a hex head about size 15/16 (as I remember) and the easiest way to get it out is with a socket.

SoundGuy wrote:
Sort of, but not quite. 😉 If it's an Atwood water heater then the authentic Atwood plug socket size is 7/8", if it's an aftermarket plug it could be 15/16" ... fortunately Camco offers this handy RV Water Heater Drain and Wrench Kit that will handle both sizes.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
2 different size hex heads for Atwood but only because Atwood changed sizes in 2004 when they changed sizes on the T&P Relief Valves and changed control design of WHs.

Not the only reason - my point was that 1/2" NTP threaded plugs that will fit Atwood water heaters are available aftermarket with either size head, 7/8" or 15/16" ... nothing to do with what Atwood has done in the past. Camco knows this and is the reason they offer that RV Water Heater Drain and Wrench Kit which will fit either size head.

[engelstine]

Would that tank damage just from the ice? It was not like the entire tank was full, I pulled the Relief and the Hot Water line under the trailer so there isnt much ice in the Tank, just a block at the bottom where the Rod is. If the tank didnt expand do to the ice im not what other damage it could cause.

[schlep1967]

PaulJ2 wrote:
With the few weeks of freezing weather we get around here every year, i don't even drain mine. I just turn the water heater on for the few days. Works for me.

The weather in Oregon is not the weather in Michigan where the OP is.
Odds are the tank is already damaged. Either use external heat like blow drier or reflector light stuck in the area where the tank is to get the ice out or just leave the plug out until spring. I would not introduce any more water to the tank due to the fact it is most likely damaged and will leak into the trailer.

[PaulJ2]

With the few weeks of freezing weather we get around here every year, i don't even drain mine. I just turn the water heater on for the few days. Works for me.

[engelstine]

Yeah I thought about that as well with the hot water. I was think maybe a low heat gun also. The hair drier I had really was barely melting the ice lol

[MFL]

I personally, would not put hot water into a partially frozen Suburban WH. They are steel, but glass lined. Unsure of outcome, of hot water hitting the extreme cold glass lining.

I don't know how much ice is in there, but if hair drier worked earlier to melt, that's what I'd try. Then use suction hose to remove residual water in bottom that sits lower than the drain hole.

I'm sure many people don't get all the water out, with no damage come Spring, so leaving the ice in there may be okay. Your call, but I like removing all water, and reinstall anode back in opening to deter corrosion of threads and tank.

Jerry

[engelstine]

Ok thanks! I'll get one ordered. I'm guessing I can't put it in though since there is ice in the heater at the moment. I thought about running hot water into the reliefs valve and flushing out the ice out the drain hole. Not sure if it's necessary though.

[MFL]

Yes, on the mag, and I only use oem Suburban. If the mag get eaten up quickly, less than a season of use, then alum.

Jerry

[engelstine]

Do you suggest the mag one? Also should I get the suburban oem replacement? Camco makes one.

[spoon059]

If you open the relief valve and open your water line low point drains, all the hot water will drain out of the water heater. Much easier that trying to mess with the drain plug on these things...

[Old-Biscuit]

SoundGuy wrote:

Dick_B wrote:
If the bolt you referred to is the drain (for Atwood) or anode (if Suburban) it should have a hex head about size 15/16 (as I remember) and the easiest way to get it out is with a socket.

Sort of, but not quite. 😉 If it's an Atwood water heater then the authentic Atwood plug socket size is 7/8", if it's an aftermarket plug it could be 15/16" ... fortunately Camco offers this handy RV Water Heater Drain and Wrench Kit that will handle both sizes. If the water heater is a Suburban then the correct socket size for removing the anode rod is 1 & 1/16". If removing the anode rod proves to be a real bear to remove then a socket wrench with a breaker bar may be your best bet.

Correct/.......
2 different size hex heads for Atwood but only because Atwood changed sizes in 2004 when they changed sizes on the T&P Relief Valves and changed control design of WHs.
2003 and previous models used the 7/8" hex head drain plug along with 1/2" NPT T&P Relief Valve and separate AC/DC controls
2004 and newer models incorporated one set of T-stats/DC Circuit Board, 3/4" NPT T&P Relief Valve and 15/16" hex head drain plug



OP........
Glad you got that stuck anode rod out.
Just for your information ----your water heater (Suburban) uses a steel GLASS-LINED tank (hence the need for anode rod)
Sounds like previous owner didn't routinely remove anode rod which would contribute to the steel rod snapping off of hex head.
And it was probably an aluminum rod which can collect calcium deposits which can make rod difficult to remove thru drain hole.

2 versions of rods are available.
Magnesium (OEM Standard)...provides greater cathodic protection but dissolves quicker.
Can react with bacteria causing a sulfurous smell
Aluminum (OEM Optional)....last longer so lower cathodic protection but adequate. Can 'swell/deposits' making it harder to remove.

Aluminum rod has a 'flat' hex head
Magnesium rod has a 'raised bump' on hex head