Wolf Creek 840 Goes Lithium

[Ranger_Tim]

Let me start by saying that I’m not an RV guru and definitely not an expert on electrical stuff. I have just enough handy skills to be able to use a screwdriver and a wrench. Everything else is usually a voyage of discovery.

We bought a 2016 Wolf Creek new and I loaded it with two 100 amp hour AGM batteries. They have given me a good service life but after 7 years I figured it was time to replace them. That meant trying to find a LiFePO2 solution in order to take advantage of the newer tech and better service life and output. I do not have deep pockets and cannot afford to buy batteries that will cost me multiple thousands of dollars, along with having state of the art connectors, etc. I needed a simple, cheap, yet effective solution. So I searched the net for products, watched Will Prowse and others on YT, and came up with what works for me and my wallet.

I had already bought a 100 Ah LiFePO4 ($219) for my trolling motor and was delighted with the performance, so I went back to them only to discover they had a newer model that was a smaller footprint with the same specs (100Ah Mini $249). I measured and found I could put three of them into the box instead of two, giving me 300 Ah! I ordered two and did a trial fit, then ordered number three. It worked well. The three just fit with plenty of space above for cabling.

Next I ordered the wrong WFCO converter replacement. Sent it back while ordering the correct one. It cost around $150 bucks. I know there are other vendors that have more reliable, better reputations, etc., but my original worked fine and it was cheap. Cheap and easy is important remember? It was a direct fit and required no wire cutting or other mods. I followed the instructions on the WFCO site with no difficulties. Five wires and Done! 300Ah of storage where there once was 200. I am a happy camper.

As soon as I sit at the desktop I will post pictures of the installed batts and the products. I figured there is bound to be someone else like me out there that is looking for a no-brained way to go Lithium. Be sure to kill all the power to the camper, 12v, generator and shore power before working on this stuff. This complete setup cost me about $1100, it would be 850 with the 3rd battery left out. Shipping was fast and free. They ship with reduced charge, so be sure to take that into consideration.

Before flaming me with shoulda-coulda posts remember that not all of us have the knowledge or skills that others display. If there are better, cheaper and easier ways to do this please post so others can benefit. Good luck to everyone!

[StirCrazy]

Ranger Tim wrote:
I looked it up in the online manual. It says, “ A battery DOES NOT have to be installed for WF-8900-AD-MBA Series Main Board Assembly to operate.” So a disconnect switch would give me peace of mind that the batts would not get overcharged sitting at home plugged in. As for why I think I need this much battery storage? When we are out in the backcountry in Idaho we need it. We rarely visit campgrounds with hookups. Usually we spend two to three weeks at a time, depending on how much work leave is available. I don’t share any bias for or against those who boondock or not and believe that RV’s should operate properly and as expected or we should hold the manufacturer accountable. How responsible they are is an important part of our conversations here.

I’ll let you know if my batts are hurt by the WFCO converter.

one more thing you could check is if you have the sheet for your actual power center is if it says filtered DC output as a feature. It's not so much the converter you're worried about but any electronics that use DC power. if it is a reasonably new rv (last 10 years) your probably good.

[Ranger_Tim]

I looked it up in the online manual. It says, “ A battery DOES NOT have to be installed for WF-8900-AD-MBA Series Main Board Assembly to operate.” So a disconnect switch would give me peace of mind that the batts would not get overcharged sitting at home plugged in. As for why I think I need this much battery storage? When we are out in the backcountry in Idaho we need it. We rarely visit campgrounds with hookups. Usually we spend two to three weeks at a time, depending on how much work leave is available. I don’t share any bias for or against those who boondock or not and believe that RV’s should operate properly and as expected or we should hold the manufacturer accountable. How responsible they are is an important part of our conversations here.

I’ll let you know if my batts are hurt by the WFCO converter.

[3_tons]

StirCrazy said: “filtered dc output is now on the circuit boards so anything with a decent power center doesn't need a battery for that function anymore.”

Got it, thanks for the additional insight 🙂

3 tons

[StirCrazy]

pianotuna wrote:
Ranger Tim,

It depends on the converter. Some require a battery to act as a filter to "clean up" the output. (ripple)

filtered dc output is now on the circuit boards so anything with a decent power center doesn't need a battery for that function anymore. My 1991 slumber queen had an old parallax and worked how you are thinking but it will also kill batteries in no time flat due to the single stage charging. now it has a modern PD4000 series power center with filtered dc

[3_tons]

pianotuna wrote:
Ranger Tim,

It depends on the converter. Some require a battery to act as a filter to "clean up" the output. (ripple)

Interesting, first I’ve ever heard of AC ripple significantly impacting dc service in a camper (how so??) - definitely not the case with either my PD or Xantrex converter-charger…Are you sure this is not ‘yet another’ outlier myth issue??

3 tons

[pianotuna]

Ranger Tim,

It depends on the converter. Some require a battery to act as a filter to "clean up" the output. (ripple)

[3_tons]

Ranger Tim wrote:
It took a second try to get the unit to charge properly (I think) and the batteries are full. First try resulted in the converter fan running too long. It is difficult to tell what the charger is doing without some sort of indicator. I now have the camper plugged in to run the frig. Our first trip will be soon and I want it cold.

Installing a battery disconnect is my next objective. The camper should have come with one in the first place. I need to read about running the converter without a battery connected. Seems I remember it might be a bad move. If I could just retire tomorrow all would be well…

You’re correct..When storing camper, I added (from Amazon) and use a car battery side-terminal post knife-style disconnect switch (had to get a little longer M-8 post screw)…In this way you can use the converter to power up the camper without overcharging the battery - also works perfectly during long term battery storage, isolate at about 50’ish % state of charge (SOC)…

One knife switch can be used for even two batteries connected in parallel 🙂

3 tons

[Ranger_Tim]

It took a second try to get the unit to charge properly (I think) and the batteries are full. First try resulted in the converter fan running too long. It is difficult to tell what the charger is doing without some sort of indicator. I now have the camper plugged in to run the frig. Our first trip will be soon and I want it cold.

Installing a battery disconnect is my next objective. The camper should have come with one in the first place. I need to read about running the converter without a battery connected. Seems I remember it might be a bad move. If I could just retire tomorrow all would be well…

[3_tons]

Ranger Tim wrote:
The AGM batteries (2) that I was using are still working. One of them only holds at 12.8 or less 30 minutes after charging to full. I don’t like to wait until batteries are so fatigued they ruin a trip. A third battery from the same batch I bought in 2016 also began showing signs of failure, so I decided it was time to make the change. I said that I was cheap, not broke! While spending big on batts like Battle Born would be great I just couldn’t do it. We’ll see if I blew my money on unreliable cheap stuff and I regret it. I will be sure to report problems.

The WFCO converter in my Wolf Creek is original equipment. It has been reliable and in use continuously - the camper has always been plugged in to shore power during storage for battery maintenance and portable heat to keep it dry during winter. I am ignorant as to the brand’s reputation. I am keeping the original board as an emergency replacement. It’s a simple switch. I am interested to see how the auto-detect performs in recognizing the LiFePO4 batts. Some people report problems getting it to work.

As far as charging voltage recommendations for LiFePO4, available advice was all over the map. I don’t know whom to believe so I just took the batt company’s recommendation that 14.4-14.6 was adequate. I’ll know soon enough if they get full or not. The main benefit of the upgrade is still a significant increase in useable current storage compared to lead acid with considerably less weight. This also makes us less dependent on a generator. Now I will only carry a genny if we want to operate the ac.

Got it, but in the spirit of individual ‘free agency’, no real need to justify your choice unless being paid for by another :h…BTW, a smart move - in your shoes I’d definitely do (and have..) the same thing 🙂

3 tons

[towpro]

StirCrazy wrote:


I had a 2000 wfco fail, a 2008 wfco fail, and in My 2016 I never gave it a chance and replaced it with a PD before it even left the lot.

Every PD charge I have ever owned failed in less than 5 years (if I kept RV that long).
last replacement I went with a boondocker because of warranty, but sold rv a couple years later.
But I keep RV's plugged in full time. Accept for last AF990 that sat in the sun with solar charging everything.

[StirCrazy]

pianotuna wrote:
Not all makers use the cheapest. My RV came with a PD converter. It didn't have the dongle--but that was a cheap upgrade.

yes there are some that will give you that as standard or option.

[pianotuna]

Not all makers use the cheapest. My RV came with a PD converter. It didn't have the dongle--but that was a cheap upgrade.

[mbloof]

StirCrazy wrote:

MORSNOW wrote:
My 2014 Wolf Creek 850 also came with a WFCO power center. I used to hear people bash WFCO as a ticking time bomb, but in the 11 seasons of use, mine has been perfect. I've also not seen a single person say they have had a modern WFCO failure, maybe they stepped up their game and fixed their past issues?

I had a 2000 wfco fail, a 2008 wfco fail, and in My 2016 I never gave it a chance and replaced it with a PD before it even left the lot. most people won't even know they fail because they get stuck in boost, or others find they won't go into boost. in my case they both stuck in boost and killed the batteries.

if I camped with plugins most of the time I never would have known, but I mostly camp without hookups so when all of a sudden, my batteries were losing charge in 1/2 the time that they normally lasted I started wondering what's up.

WFCO is the most widely used converter in the rv business for one reason. They work ok and their cheap. (ok two reasons) you are not getting a high-end converter in a normal rv

They are "popular" because they are inexpensive. RV manufacturers use the least expensive stuff they can get their hands on.

Sadly, when it comes to charging and battery use I'm afraid that %70 or more of RV owners would NEVER NOTICE as they exclusively use FULL HOOKUP campgrounds.

(why they wasted $$$ on a 'fully self contained' RV in the 1st place is beyond me. However you might be amazed at how many don't carry water or even propane for example)


- Mark0.

[StirCrazy]

MORSNOW wrote:
My 2014 Wolf Creek 850 also came with a WFCO power center. I used to hear people bash WFCO as a ticking time bomb, but in the 11 seasons of use, mine has been perfect. I've also not seen a single person say they have had a modern WFCO failure, maybe they stepped up their game and fixed their past issues?

I had a 2000 wfco fail, a 2008 wfco fail, and in My 2016 I never gave it a chance and replaced it with a PD before it even left the lot. most people won't even know they fail because they get stuck in boost, or others find they won't go into boost. in my case they both stuck in boost and killed the batteries.

if I camped with plugins most of the time I never would have known, but I mostly camp without hookups so when all of a sudden, my batteries were losing charge in 1/2 the time that they normally lasted I started wondering what's up.

WFCO is the most widely used converter in the rv business for one reason. They work ok and their cheap. (ok two reasons) you are not getting a high-end converter in a normal rv