Firstly, I must thank KKELLER14K for the incentive to get off my butt, and do something about the unsteady legs. His leg brace gave me the starting point from which this was all developed. As mentioned in an earlier blog, we had some damage to the front LH corner leg that got me searching for answers and ideas.
Secondly, if you have more damage then you should look at AnEv942โs report on his mod/repair labelled โslide repairโ which is very detailed.
Step one; get some paper, pencil and tape measure. I also made a cardboard template o the legs to dually fenders fully loaded, so I could make measurements at any time.
Measure the width between the leg mounts, mine was 94 ยฝโ, for the 3โx1โ tube steel, (minus the thickness of the end plates). The end plates are 5โx2โx ยผโ mild steel and the holes were drilled to match the leg mounting points. The 4 bolts had to be removed and replaced with longer ones.
Then I picked up some ยฝโ pipe (about 7/8โ outside diameter), mine were cut approximately 19โ for the 2 front braces and 22โ for the 2 side braces. One end of each is squashed flat for about 1 ยฝโ so you have a good area to drill thru nice and flat, remember to put the pipe seam where you will be drilling, because if it is where the pipe folds over 180 degrees then it will split there. The other end is cut at approximately 45 degree AT A LATER STAGE, to suit your frame. The 2 pieces that get welded to the angles are 1โx 2โx ยผโ flat steel, rounded at each end to make them look nice.
Next, 2 pieces of 2 ยฝโ x 7โ x ยผโ was bent to suit my legs, so that the braces will fold up when traveling. A good vice and big hammer and slowly pound away as close to the bend line as possible. When mounting to the leg MAKE SURE that the bolt is not too long or you will damage the leg tube!
The pivot bolts were high tensile 3/8โ x 1โ with nylock nuts. The end brace pins are simply s/s dyna bolts without the outer sheath. For the vertical ones I simply machined off the excess thread so that what was left smooth to make getting the pin thru the hole easier. Install the braces to the folded bracket that is bolted to the leg, then swing the front braces up to the cross brace and use a bit of โBluetac, wall poster sticky stuffโ to hold in place. CHECK that the camper and legs are level and plumb NOW. Also make sure you can remove the front cross brace s/s pin when loaded. Now you can drill up thru the angled brace to the cross brace for the retaining bolt hole.
Make sure that the front braces clear your fenders when unload/loading, I gave myself about 2โ total, because we often unload/load on uneven ground.
I painted everything after a dry assemble was done, to make sure that everything worked and folded up properly. If you are painting during cold weather, then warm up the steel first to make sure the paint sticks, I had it all hung from coat hangers and old bolts stuck into the vice for holding things so that I could paint all over at once. I walked like that fellow form Notre Dame by the time I had finished.
Now when the legs are up and swung in, I swing them all the way so I have more mirror view when driving, also more clearance for the back passenger doors on the cabin, then I put a small bungy strap from the hardware store to make sure they did not rattle and to keep the leg from rattling down while driving, someone else already mentioned thisโฆI thought better safe than sorry.
Another idea that 2 other RVnetโers came up with was to run a length of Unistrut from the front to the back to support the underside and give better tie-downs a better anchor point. This was then bolted to the front cross bar to join them together. I used to remove the tie-downs when unloading, but now leave them hanging so that I can see them. The tie-downs connect to a ยฝโ high tensile bolt going across the Unistrut.
Hint: If you canโt weld or bend yourself, then mark everything with permanent marker so the tradesman can line things up exactly for you. You could also print the pics of and show them what you are trying to do.
I hope that helps, Again thanks to all those who inspired me to get of my butt.
Maximum photo width=640
Secondly, if you have more damage then you should look at AnEv942โs report on his mod/repair labelled โslide repairโ which is very detailed.
Step one; get some paper, pencil and tape measure. I also made a cardboard template o the legs to dually fenders fully loaded, so I could make measurements at any time.
Measure the width between the leg mounts, mine was 94 ยฝโ, for the 3โx1โ tube steel, (minus the thickness of the end plates). The end plates are 5โx2โx ยผโ mild steel and the holes were drilled to match the leg mounting points. The 4 bolts had to be removed and replaced with longer ones.
Then I picked up some ยฝโ pipe (about 7/8โ outside diameter), mine were cut approximately 19โ for the 2 front braces and 22โ for the 2 side braces. One end of each is squashed flat for about 1 ยฝโ so you have a good area to drill thru nice and flat, remember to put the pipe seam where you will be drilling, because if it is where the pipe folds over 180 degrees then it will split there. The other end is cut at approximately 45 degree AT A LATER STAGE, to suit your frame. The 2 pieces that get welded to the angles are 1โx 2โx ยผโ flat steel, rounded at each end to make them look nice.
Next, 2 pieces of 2 ยฝโ x 7โ x ยผโ was bent to suit my legs, so that the braces will fold up when traveling. A good vice and big hammer and slowly pound away as close to the bend line as possible. When mounting to the leg MAKE SURE that the bolt is not too long or you will damage the leg tube!
The pivot bolts were high tensile 3/8โ x 1โ with nylock nuts. The end brace pins are simply s/s dyna bolts without the outer sheath. For the vertical ones I simply machined off the excess thread so that what was left smooth to make getting the pin thru the hole easier. Install the braces to the folded bracket that is bolted to the leg, then swing the front braces up to the cross brace and use a bit of โBluetac, wall poster sticky stuffโ to hold in place. CHECK that the camper and legs are level and plumb NOW. Also make sure you can remove the front cross brace s/s pin when loaded. Now you can drill up thru the angled brace to the cross brace for the retaining bolt hole.
Make sure that the front braces clear your fenders when unload/loading, I gave myself about 2โ total, because we often unload/load on uneven ground.
I painted everything after a dry assemble was done, to make sure that everything worked and folded up properly. If you are painting during cold weather, then warm up the steel first to make sure the paint sticks, I had it all hung from coat hangers and old bolts stuck into the vice for holding things so that I could paint all over at once. I walked like that fellow form Notre Dame by the time I had finished.
Now when the legs are up and swung in, I swing them all the way so I have more mirror view when driving, also more clearance for the back passenger doors on the cabin, then I put a small bungy strap from the hardware store to make sure they did not rattle and to keep the leg from rattling down while driving, someone else already mentioned thisโฆI thought better safe than sorry.
Another idea that 2 other RVnetโers came up with was to run a length of Unistrut from the front to the back to support the underside and give better tie-downs a better anchor point. This was then bolted to the front cross bar to join them together. I used to remove the tie-downs when unloading, but now leave them hanging so that I can see them. The tie-downs connect to a ยฝโ high tensile bolt going across the Unistrut.
Hint: If you canโt weld or bend yourself, then mark everything with permanent marker so the tradesman can line things up exactly for you. You could also print the pics of and show them what you are trying to do.
I hope that helps, Again thanks to all those who inspired me to get of my butt.
Maximum photo width=640
