I own a 2001 RAM 3500 4x4 with 5.9 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. Currently it has around 130,000 miles on it. I have been very happy with this truck. I upgraded the fuel system and added an exhaust brake a couple years ago.However, with my portable solar skid and horse trailer with living quarters I'm exceeding the gvwr on both axels and am contemplating upgrading to a RAM 550. My wife is about 10 months minimum to retirement so that is really I need to have something ready to go spend some time boondock camping around the country. I would rather buy a good used truck rather than a new one but my question is what year RAM 550 would you try to buy used or stay away from? Also, if anyone keeps up with where the dodge engineers are heading; does it make any sense to wait a year on some improvements coming down the pike. I'm afraid nothing coming would beat my 01 5.9 but I'm up against some weight / capacity issues and don't see any other option. I have never ran across a cat scale before but I did recently after I had the solar skid loaded and the trailer hooked up. Here is the weights across the scalessteer axle - 4640drive axle - 8480trailer axle - 6540Total weight - 19,660Note: I had no horses loaded in trailer. My overall weight is not an issue... it's just the tow vehicle axle weights. The trailer is a 3 horse Keifer built trailer. I'm planning on going back across the scales with my bumper pull travel trailer and the solar skid to see how it compares. I've heard the cat scales are pretty accurate but another weigh may help verify this although it will be the same scales so if calibration has not been done since last weigh I'll still be wondering about accuracy. Your thoughts! USED or NEW? What year is best, if any?

Well, I was going to say a 1T dually would do it til I looked up the axle rating. You'd probably still be over with horses loaded. I prefer used as long as there is still some warranty. Craig

Buy a new RAM 3500 DRW with Aisin auto tranny and 4:10 gears. It will do everything you want and more.GVWR 14,000FGAWR 6,000RGAWR 9,750GCWR 37,900Trailer weight 30,000You buy new cheaper than a year or 2 old used one.Chris

.Spend some time on hereHeavy trailers - including several owners who are "hay burner haulers".You can have a really nice tow vehicle - that will handle *anything* for considerably less than a new dually.You will also find "grads" from MDTs..

Me Again wrote:Buy a new RAM 3500 DRW with Aisin auto tranny and 4:10 gears. It will do everything you want and more.GVWR 14,000FGAWR 6,000RGAWR 9,750GCWR 37,900Trailer weight 30,000ChrisMe Again,I am guessing DRW mean dual rear wheels? My 2001 is a 1 ton with dual rear wheels but everything I can find shows that 2001 has a gvwr of 10,500 to 11,000#I notice the newer models with crew cabs have a higher gvwr. I'm wondering if there is a difference in my 2001 and the newer models or did RAM just up the GVWR on paper?

lc0338 wrote:Me Again wrote:Buy a new RAM 3500 DRW with Aisin auto tranny and 4:10 gears. It will do everything you want and more.GVWR 14,000FGAWR 6,000RGAWR 9,750GCWR 37,900Trailer weight 30,000ChrisMe Again,I am guessing DRW mean dual rear wheels? My 2001 is a 1 ton with dual rear wheels but everything I can find shows that 2001 has a gvwr of 10,500 to 11,000#I notice the newer models with crew cabs have a higher gvwr. I'm wondering if there is a difference in my 2001 and the newer models or did RAM just up the GVWR on paper?What is your Rear GAWR?Look at the VIN sticker on the drivers door B pillar.

Your Thought's | Good Sam Community

NC_Hauler
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
lc0338 wrote:
NC Hauler wrote:
Bedlam wrote:
That truck looks like a pickup with a bed delete or swap. From what I can see it does not use the straight frame rails of a chassis cab.

You may be right....I guess the OP would have to tell us if truck he has is a legit C&C or if he deleted the bed and put the exsisting bed on the truck.

Here is the passenger side window information sheet that I removed from the truck.

We know now...it's a C&C truck...I guess it depends on how much money you want to sink into a 14 yr old truck, or buy new for the warranty or buy a good used 2013' and up to get all the benefits of the new frame, new front and rear suspension, higher GVWR, GCWR, higher front and rear axle ratings, more HP & TQ, and perhaps the Aisin tranny, and not have to spend more on a brand new 15' model...
Bedlam
Moderator
Jun 09, 2015
Marty's got a better eye than me. FWIW: My 2015 5500 had a base price of $43k and MSRP under $57k before the upfit.
lc0338
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
NC Hauler wrote:
Bedlam wrote:
That truck looks like a pickup with a bed delete or swap. From what I can see it does not use the straight frame rails of a chassis cab.

You may be right....I guess the OP would have to tell us if truck he has is a legit C&C or if he deleted the bed and put the exsisting bed on the truck.

Here is the passenger side window information sheet that I removed from the truck.
lc0338
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
That truck looks like a pickup with a bed delete or swap. From what I can see it does not use the straight frame rails of a chassis cab.

I drove the truck off the lot NEW as cab and chassis in year 2000. About bounced me out of it until I got the haybed on. The haybed weighs around 2000# by itself. I assure you this is not a bed swap/remove truck.

While the upgrades to the increase weight capacity are interesting, there are just too many other things that wear out on an old truck that starts to be a nusiance and money drain. I want to spend a lot of time on the road in about a year and would rather not have to worry with maintenance.
NC_Hauler
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
Bedlam wrote:
That truck looks like a pickup with a bed delete or swap. From what I can see it does not use the straight frame rails of a chassis cab.

You may be right....I guess the OP would have to tell us if truck he has is a legit C&C or if he deleted the bed and put the exsisting bed on the truck.
Bedlam
Moderator
Jun 09, 2015
That truck looks like a pickup with a bed delete or swap. From what I can see it does not use the straight frame rails of a chassis cab.
NC_Hauler
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
blt2ski wrote:
Something I keep forgetting about here, is the OP's truck is a cab and chassis. His door sticker is NOT on the truck. He has full rights to modify the setup to work for him IF he likes current truck. IE, he CAN put higher capacity tires and rims, He CAN put higher capacity springs to hand more load. also make sure the brakes are up to the task. Then all he has to do is up his paid for gvw to match what he weighs. His door sticker will never be checked, nor verified as he does not have one.

One of the joys of getting cab and chassis trucks. They CAN be modified from the way the chassis manufacture made them.

On the other hand, I can see how a 45/55 series truck might be a better all around option here too!

Marty

Good reminder Marty, I'd forgotten that tidbit of information as this thread got drawn out and other trucks were brought into the discussion., You're right about the C&C trucks, the chassid can be modified by the owner to make it work for their applacation....it's not like regular cab trucks in that respect.
blt2ski
Moderator
Jun 09, 2015
Something I keep forgetting about here, is the OP's truck is a cab and chassis. His door sticker is NOT on the truck. He has full rights to modify the setup to work for him IF he likes current truck. IE, he CAN put higher capacity tires and rims, He CAN put higher capacity springs to hand more load. also make sure the brakes are up to the task. Then all he has to do is up his paid for gvw to match what he weighs. His door sticker will never be checked, nor verified as he does not have one.

One of the joys of getting cab and chassis trucks. They CAN be modified from the way the chassis manufacture made them.

On the other hand, I can see how a 45/55 series truck might be a better all around option here too!

Marty
_DJ_1
Explorer II
Jun 09, 2015
lc0338 wrote:
~DJ~ wrote:
lc0338 wrote:
Here are a couple of pictures of my rig after I went across the CAT scales

I don't see the problem. It sits level and handles OK. Your rear axle is not overloaded. You have an 11.25" Dana 80 rated at 11K.

It sit's level because the front axle is over the rating as well. 2001 RAM 3500 GVWR is 11,000# and the CAT scales weighed me at 13,120 and I was not fully loaded for camping. I'm going back to the scales with my bumper pull trailer and get some re-weighs by unhooking trailer and unloading solar skid. that way I can get weights of the individual pieces.

I'm not trying to talk you out of a new truck. I'm just saying your rear axle is rated at 11K by itself. That's where Dana puts it. Dodge de-rated it for safety reasons, suspension, tires and wheels.

Just like Ford de-rated my 10.5" Sterling from 9750 to 6100 in my F 250. But the exact same axle in the F 350 is rated higher because of above reasons.
lc0338
Explorer
Jun 09, 2015
~DJ~ wrote:
lc0338 wrote:
Here are a couple of pictures of my rig after I went across the CAT scales

I don't see the problem. It sits level and handles OK. Your rear axle is not overloaded. You have an 11.25" Dana 80 rated at 11K.

It sit's level because the front axle is over the rating as well. 2001 RAM 3500 GVWR is 11,000# and the CAT scales weighed me at 13,120 and I was not fully loaded for camping. I'm going back to the scales with my bumper pull trailer and get some re-weighs by unhooking trailer and unloading solar skid. that way I can get weights of the individual pieces.