VIDEO: Installing A 250 Amp Alternator To Power Truck Camper

[Camper_Jeff___K]

VIDEO Installing A 250 Amp Alternator To Power Truck Camper  VIDEO

I Installed A BIG 250 AMP Alternator To Power The Truck Camper. I will need to upgrade my Victron 30 amp dc to dc charger to two Victron 50 amp dc to dc chargers in parallel, to realize the full power of this alternator to power the TC Lithium Batteries. With 900 watts of solar and 1300 watts Alternator, plus the 400 amp hour AH of the TC batteries, we should be able to run a rooftop AC unit during the hottest days using a Victron 3000 Watt Inverter/Charger. In this video, you will also be able to hear the difference between the stock exhaust pipe, and the finished, modified, 50 State emissions Legal, Y-Pipe and Gibson Headers, with Ported, Port Matched, Ported Out, Exhaust Ports, to maximize breathing. The Air Intake has also been enlarged from 2-1/2" to 3-1/2". The throttle body gasket, I removed all the comb like teeth on it, gaining about 10% greater, unobstructed air flow capacity. A lot of effort has been made to this engine to increase power, efficiency, and mileage, without increasing fuel intake. The engine runs beautifully and has definitely gained a good amount of power and has increased typical mileage from 8.5 to 10 mpg, to now, 11.75 Mixed to 13 mpg Freeway. A decent improvement.

There are many videos covering all work done to this engine to, if You Will, "Bullet Proof" the engine. I will be making a video soon covering all work done in a short version, and the costs incurred making all the repairs and improvements.

Enjoy the video. Please do give a Like, Comment, Question, Share, and SSUBSCRIBE to support the video. See you on the next Video!

[StirCrazy]

is there any issue with running the voctrons in parralel?  I would just buy a single higher powered dc to dc, maybe a 120Amp one like THIS 

[Camper_Jeff___K]

I have seen others run 2 Victron's in parallel without issue. I will look into the Sterling. I will also need to research connecting direct to the batteries, no dc to dc converter. The converters are mainly to protect your alternator from burning up because LIFEPO batteries can take such a large current draw if they get low. Most stock alternators can't handle the  current demand of the battery and can potentially overheat and malfunction. This alternator has a much higher current rating and so may not be subject to overheating issues. The power output of this alternator is not controlled by the truck computer, it is merely positive and negative cabled. I would need to re-cable from the alternator to the batteries as it is currently setup with 4 AWG wire now and I believe they recommend 1/0 Battery Cable for 250 AMPS. That's going to call for either a heavy switch or a heavy solenoid. I can run as is without issue now with the 30 amp dc to dc, or I can swap in the 50 AMP dc to dc with no changes required.

I'll look into it and see what I come up with. Thanks for the suggestion.

[StirCrazy]

no, the fuse from the discharge for your altanator is to protect the altanator, If it isn't fused put one in, even if you use dc to dc chargers.  the dc to dc charger is there to provide the proper charge profile to your LiFePO4 battery, or your AGM battery and so on, but people saw a rigged video with no fuse on a small altanatore running on the bench and put a empty LFP on it and let it over heat.  theres a reason why the charge line to your 7 way plug has a fuse in the main fuse box. all the dc to dc eliminates the need for a battery isolater as long as it is one that is triggered with a voltage sence line.  and your obviously running new power wire so make sure you find out the maximum draw of the dc to dc(s)  you use and add 20% and fuse the line right at the altanator..  make sure you see what the maximum draw is though, most people assum a 40amp dc to dc will only draw 40 amps, depending on wire size and efficiency it could draw up to 60.