Forum Discussion

Sterling1's avatar
Sterling1
Explorer III
Sep 28, 2024

What is the minimum clearance I need between the truck cab and camper overhang?

I'm getting a 2024 Ram 3500 DRW long bed crew cab truck for my 2000 Bigfoot 10.6 truck camper.  My measurements show I'll have about 1.5" clearance between the truck cab and camper overhang at about the center of the cab.  I'll have about 1/2" at the shark fin antenna but I plan on relocating that.  I'll have a better idea of the clearances when I get the truck.  

What is the minimum clearance I'd need at the center of the cab and at the very front of the cab to accommodate frame flexing?  

Thanks for any input

  • I was assuming the 2x4's were standing on the narrow part so they could possible topple sideways. If they are going to lay flat I would say 1/4 inch ply is more than enough.  If you want the 1/2 inch extra lift you could box the 2x4's top and bottom with the 1/4 inch ply to make it more rigid when adding or removing .

    You can also probably go with 2x3's and 1 top coat of 1/2 inch ply if they are going to be laying flat. I went with the 1/2 inch in this suggestion in case the camper walls are thicker than the 2x3. In that case the extra thickness of the 1/2 inch would better spread the load.

    Depending on wall thickness can you get by with 2x2's instead?

    • Grit_dog's avatar
      Grit_dog
      Navigator

      What are 2x3s?  Lol

      And yes I understand dimension lumber. And if required you can make any size you like with a saw and a slightly larger board. 
      Just never heard “hey run down to the lumber yard and grab some 2x3s”. 

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      The more I look at it the more I think I'm just going to attach 2x4s at the perimeter of the camper and at the basement walls.  I'll use a few screws on each 2x4 to secure it to the "joists" so I can easily remove them if I need to get at the access panels.  I'll need to bridge the three supports at the back of the back of the truck bed with a 2x4 since there isn't a single "wall" there.  Keeping them attached to the camper will make loading and unloading easier.  

      • Grit_dog's avatar
        Grit_dog
        Navigator

        Please don’t. There are multiple solutions that are better than what you’re suggesting. Not that it won’t work, it’s just a poor solution to your issue. 
        Also not advisable for resale. If you were to sell it to anyone who saw and understood that, it would either make them walk away or at least really wonder what other weird jethro engineering was hiding in the camper. 
        Yikes. 

  • I would go with the three frames of 2 x 4s and probably 1 inch ply on top. You already need a little more height and there is a big difference in strength between 1/2 inch and 1 inch ply.

    • Grit_dog's avatar
      Grit_dog
      Navigator

      1” plywood?? Difference in strength??

      what you’re suggesting does not make sense. For multiple reasons. 

    • StirCrazy's avatar
      StirCrazy
      Moderator

      where do you even find 1" ply?  I can't imagin how expensive that would be....

      • Grit_dog's avatar
        Grit_dog
        Navigator

        It’s available. 1-1/8” iirc. In the concrete  formwork world. Maybe score a junk piece or 2 of old Finn form residential basement forms for cheap or free, but otherwise yes a sheet of it is expensive and unnecessary. 
        if the OP wants lightweight, sturdy and economical, foam is the best bet. 
        If not suggested here, it has been about every other query like this. 
        get the right combo of sheet(s) for height. Cap it with a thin sheet of plywood if want to spread the perimeter bearing enough to not point load the perimeter of the camper/foam and be done with it. 
        Quick, easy, relatively cheap. Or make a frame out of 4x4s. Strap the corners together with barn door type hardware and also easy, cheaper than foam and not overly heavy. Also can build to fit snug in truck bed so no chance of sliding. 

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      Since my old truck had 2 1/8" clearance at the and never hit the cab in 20 years it would seem that 2 1/2" would be more than enough.  Both the old truck and camper are 2000 model years and I'm pretty sure the Bigfoot was designed to go on that truck.  Is the concern that the new truck will flex more than my old truck? 

      With regards to the additional strength of 1" plywood I'm not sure what benefit it would have.  The way the camper is designed it has a subfloor that bears all the weight of people, appliances, etc.  It has "joists" around the perimeter and forming the basement walls that transmit the loads from the subfloor to the truck bed.  The water tanks are suspended between the joists and have removable access panels.  So as long as I have support where the joists are the plywood wouldn't have any significant loading.  

      I'm just trying to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and minimize the extra weight of the platform mainly for ease of loading/unloading the camper.  But if there is an actual benefit of a platform with increased height and weight then I'm willing to do it.  

      • Sterling1's avatar
        Sterling1
        Explorer III

        Here is a picture from another forum that shows the underside with the access panels removed.  

  • I got my truck and thought I'd post a follow-up.  I set my camper on my bed supported by some 2X4s (raised 1.5").  That gave me 2" minimum clearance at the center of the cab and about 3" at the clearance lights at the front of the cab.  Just looking at it it is hard to imagine how I could get enough flex to make contact and even if I did make light contact at the center of the cab it seems the sheet metal would just flex and bounce back out.  However I only have an inch at the shark fin antenna at the front of the cab so I need to relocate that unless I want to raise the camper another couple of inches.  

    Now I need to figure out how to make a platform.  Bigfoot campers have a perimeter frame so it doesn't do much good to have it supported other than around the perimeter of the camper and basement.  I could make a 2X4 frame to support it at the proper locations around the perimeter and basement but it would be awkward placing it in the bed and keeping it at the correct location.  I could attach it to the camper to make loading easier but I don't like the idea of putting a bunch of screws into the camper.  I could also use plywood on top of the frame to hold it together but then it would be quite heavy to load and unload.  I'm contemplating dividing it up into three separate platforms to make it easier to put in and out them into the truck, maybe using 2X4s and 1/2" plywood.  

    Any comments from Bigfoot owners?

     

  • New campers have 48" between the floor base and underside of the cabover. This is a safe height to use as a reference against yours.

  • In addition to the static clearance and frame flex, don't forget to also consider the movement that your tie-down system will permit.  You might even want to test this and see what happens in a panic stop situation.  I'm thinking you could use a piece of something like the crunchy FloraCraft FloraFom from Michaels.  Tape a small piece to the top of your truck and drive around.  If the cabover touches the foam it should leave some sort of witness mark from which you can better evaluate your dynamic clearance.

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      I'm still waiting for the truck, the scheduled delivery date to the dealer slipped from November 11 to November 19.  Depending on how things work out I may not get it until the beginning of December.  

      I contacted Bigfoot to get their input on the minimum cab clearance I would need.  I couldn't get a firm answer that they hinted 1 1/2" should be enough.  I was picturing the problem as the frame acting like a hinge between the cab and bed but they seemed more concerned about twisting and contacting towards the outside of the cab.  

      • StirCrazy's avatar
        StirCrazy
        Moderator

        I would be concerned with only 1.5", personaly I would shoot for 3'' as a minimum but thats just me.  I have watched the camper rock going down a wavy highway.  

  • I built a 1" insulated lift for my TC thatworked fine for several years but it only provided 1/4" cab clearance. I recently built a 1-1/2" insulated lift which gives 3/4" lift. It has never caused an issue. I may have posted a spammy video here about it last year. The new lift also helps center and keep straight in the bed, how the TC sits.

  • I’d say not may have the “exact answer”. 
    1.5” seems a bit light, but may work. Probably fine under normal conditions but hitting a big dip or frost heave at highway speeds might test that theory. I’d shoot for a bit more. Nothing a sheet of plywood or 1” foam under the bed mat won’t cure. 

    congrats on the new rig!

    • Oregun's avatar
      Oregun
      Nomad

      I agree with your assessment would feel better with at least 2" of clearance.  Another thing that might help if they are still available was shock absorbers between the camper and the truck.  I think Lance had these.  On mine I use a half inch plywood which has 1/4 inch dense carpet attached to it.

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      It seems like if it did slightly contact at the center of the cab roof that it wouldn't cause any permanent damage but would give me a warning that I need to do something about it.  It also depends on how the cab and camper move in relation to each other.  I.e., if it was a straight pivot at the cab to bed interface then 1 1/2" at the center of the cab would equate to about 3" required at the windshield.  I need to figure out if I can modify the shark fin antenna but keep it on the cab roof or completely move it somewhere else.  

  • Also check the distance above the rails. My 'foot dealer had to run and get a foam sheet to get me home when it appeared the camper would hit the rails. I now have a 2X6 built platform that keeps my camper centered also.

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      My camper is 21" from the bottom to the part that overhangs the bed rails.  The Ram 3500 bed rail height is about 20.2"  

  • There is a lot more movement up there than many realize with truck frame flex and cab over bounce.  I'd want at least 3" clearance, which would be easy for you to do with a flat frame built with 2x4 or 2x6 lumber or a sheet of pink/blue insulation board for support

    • Sterling1's avatar
      Sterling1
      Explorer III

      I've sen 3" mentioned before.  I've also seen some comments that some Fords had more frame flex than other trucks.  My current truck (2000 K3500 crew cab long bed) has 2 1/8" between the center of the cab and the bottom of the camper overhang and hasn't hit in 20 years.  But I only use a 1/4" thick rubber mat in the bed which minimizes the amount of camper bounce.  

      Truck manufacturers brag about how strong their frames are on new trucks, I just wonder if that translates into less flex between the bed and cab.  I'd prefer to keep my center of gravity as low as possible and minimize the amount I have to raise the camper.  

      • StirCrazy's avatar
        StirCrazy
        Moderator

        I have about 4, i could get away with and feel comfterable with 3. 

        frame flex doesn't mean it is weak, a fram that will flex in most cases will usaly be stronger to a point as it is able to adsorbe slight movment where as a ridgid fram can't and will be work stressed and eventual fail.  now we will probably never see thins in our picks ups but just wanted to put that out there. 

        the major issue you are going to see is if the brand crowns the bed for weight handling, this will let the camper rock back and forth more which lets the cabover get closer and farther away from the cab roof when hitting bumps and even accelerating and braking.  some people have made up for this by shimming a bed suport up to make a flat surface for the camper to sit on but then your defeating the purpose of the crown, so I am not sure what the answer is in this case, maybe some one with a crowned truck can chime in on this one, but it is a good idea to get a knowen strait edge the length of you bod and see if the bed is crowned or not then you know.