REM13
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Re: Towing capacities aren't realistic, completely unachievable
The unloaded pin weights of trailer units are published. The loaded pin weight can be estimated based on the published weight or by asking a person with experience the pin weight of specific units. The carrying capacity of all trucks is posted somewhere in every truck as set by the manufacturer. There should be no doubt about how much carrying weight a truck will bear. It is really up to the buyer to do their research before buying either a truck and/or a trailer to determine the pin weight is within the truck manufacturers set capacity. It takes a little research before buying either a truck or a trailer to make sure the trailer is within the carrying capacity of a truck. Unfortunately, a truck or a trailer is purchased before the capacities are determined. Been there, done that. There are many grossly overloaded single rear wheel trucks hauling heavy 5th wheel trailers but it seems to work for most of them.331Views0likes0CommentsRe: which brand tire
I had Bridgestone 250's on my previous 5th wheel, (30'), and would not hesitate to buy another set for my new unit. I had Goodyear Marathon's, made in China, that came with the unit new before the 250's and had no issues with them after 5 years of use. Rarely had to adjust pressure on the 250's. I would recommend good metal valve stems with a new set of any tires and also a good TPM system for peace of mind.387Views0likes0CommentsRe: 5th wheel RM3962 Dometic fridge
Here is the latest on my fridge issue, hope my posting will help someone with a similar problem. I've learned a lot from this forum over the years so I'm hoping this posting will be of value in some way or another. I changed the thermistor yesterday, not that hard to move the fridge out a few inches. I tied a string to the old thermistor and taped the new one to the string and gently pulled it into place. However, the fridge continued to E-1 on electrical so it was not a thermistor issue. Called a major RV dealer to get them to trouble shot the issue, they were booked for 3 weeks. I spoke with Tyler at Tedco RV Supplies in Langley, B.C. and he advised to run electricity directly to the fridge by-passing the converter/charger. The fridge did not E-1 while connected for a few hours so the E-1 was a power supply issue. I have a Parallax 7355 unit and it required an updated lower section. I removed the old and installed new and so far it is working fine. It was a little harder than replacing the Thermistor, took 2 1/2 - 3 hrs.221Views0likes0CommentsRe: 5th wheel RM3962 Dometic fridge
Thanks for your suggestions Old-Biscuit, greatly appreciated. Right now the fridge is near empty. It was giving the E-1 when it was loaded as well and had a small circulating fan operating inside. I cleaned all the ground and solenoid connections. Also tested the Thermistor with the sensor in a glass of ice water. It tested at 8490 Ohms so I assume it is still working properly. After I finished and re-started the fridge on electricity, it gave the flashing E-1 within half an hour. Not sure what to do next, the propane pressure regulator or the fridge propane valve and solenoid.221Views0likes0Comments5th wheel RM3962 Dometic fridge
Hoping someone has insight into solving my problem. I was getting an E-1 error message in both modes, however the fridge continued to work. It started to have a continuous clicking sound when working on propane and then it started shutting down in propane mode after running for a few hours, it still worked on power. Took 5th to a repair shop and the igniter was changed. The clicking stopped, the error message continued and it still shut off after a few hours on propane. Had the electronic board changed and it worked in both modes but error message continued and it still shut off on propane. Changed themocouple and it work in both modes but the E-1 error message continues after starting in electrical mode. Seems to work fine on propane and no error message. Cleaned the burner tube and no change in error message. Only see three more items to look at, the thermistor, the propane valve and orifice. Valve is over $250, I have a spare thermistor but not keen on moving our fridge to replace it. Any suggestions on what to do first would be greatly appreciated.1.7KViews0likes4CommentsTow vehicle servicing gap
I would like to give a heads up to those taking their vehicles to a dealer or other shop for servicing. In the past year on two different occasions when I've taken my 2012 Silverado 3500 Duramax in for servicing and the chassis was not greased at the time the oil was changed. The first time was at the dealer where I purchased the truck in Canada and the second in the USA where I'm vacationing. Both times I specifically asked for a grease job. I was alarmed both times and brought the servicing gap to the attention of the servicing manager. Both managers expressed that it is supposed to be a part of there servicing procedures. If an owner is expecting their vehicle to be greased it may not be for thousands of Kilos/miles and it could result in premature wearing of parts such as ball joints which can be a dangerous condition. I suggest checking after servicing for greasing or do it yourself to make sure it's getting done.3.2KViews0likes19CommentsRe: Clunking noise while towing
I have a Reese 18K signature slider that had a clunk. I checked out all the bolts and adjusted the donut anchor levers so that they were tight and the clunk continued. I finally determined that the right side dog that holds the hitch in place on the slider was somehow lifting causing the right side to pivot and cause the noise. I installed a bolt with a locking nut in the hole above the right side dog that holds the hitch forward and that cured the clunking noise. The locking pin above the hook on the left for some reason did not keep both sides of the slider locked down. It took me a few years to figure out what was going on. The hitch is great now that is completely tight.500Views0likes0Comments
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Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts
