Big_Dog2
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Re: Let's talk generators - again.
My 30 lb propane tanks are definitely gaining weight as I age. Since it appears you likely will be operating a genset on propane, you will definitely be looking at extra propane bottles. Have you considered purchasing (yes, I am spending your money) composite propane bottles. They are very light and are translucent so you can see the level of the liquid propane left in the bottle. They are pricey but kinda cool. https://www.vikingcylinders.com/products/ Just a thought. Enjoy your retirement.292Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2010 5th Wheel with a broken frame at Pin Box
I know the feeling. I had a similar issue with my 2007 Colorado 5th. I discovered the issue in Manitoba and live near Edmonton. A local welder came on site and reinforced the hitch. He advised me to keep a close eye on it and I did. In several hundred kms I "thought" the issue may be recurring and took it to a welding shop in Dauphin where additional reinforcement was added. The shop advised me that this was the fifth time (over the years) they had repaired a hitch issue on a 5th wheel RV. I made it home with no issues. The RV shops would not touch the repair because there was structural welding involved and their staff were not qualified for that type of welding. The welding shops did not want to take the nose cone off the trailer to properly access the problem area. Eventually I found a welding shop that claimed to have a staff member who had done that type of repair and were willing to take on the job. They advised me that the repairs that were done on the road were well done and would have stood up. Regardless, I had the reinforcements removed and the problem area replaced and strengthened. Some RV facilities said they would remove the nose cone and bring a welder in for the welding portion of the repair. That would have worked for me because my trailer was movable. In your case all work will have to be done at your home either by yourself or a hired individual. In my case, the cost of repair was significantly less than any type of replacement and like you, I was not about to "unload" an unsafe trailer on another (one RV dealership suggested selling it as is at an auction). My choices were to either have the trailer properly repaired or sell it with full disclosure. I feel your pain. Good Luck.602Views0likes0CommentsRe: Finding water leaks.
I once had a similar issue. I was purging the water lines with fresh water, then left the pump on to see if there were any leaks. The pump cycled every one or two minutes. I had not yet filled the water heater and was flushing the system in by-pass mode. I was unable to find any leaks anywhere. I filled the water heater with water and then left the pump on and the pump cycling stopped. I never did find a leak anywhere and have concluded that the by-pass valve must have been leaking very slowly into the empty water heater. Once filled, problem gone. I sincerely hope your issue is resolved as easily and cheaply as mine. Hope this helps.187Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fridge Vent Fan Questions
I have a Norcold model N81I in a 2007 Colorado fifth wheel. I installed a computer fan below the cooling fins. It is switched and in my opinion helps the refrigerator run more efficiently in hot weather. Previous to the installation I operated the refrigerator on # 4 setting (1 to 5 settings with 5 being the coldest). I now operate on # 3. I boondock 75% of the time and run the fan constantly in hot weather but occasionally shut it off in the evening if it cools off. The fan draws 0.5 amps. I thought about controlling the fan operation by tapping into the wires that operate the propane solenoid. That way, the fan would only operate when the burner was on. I do not know how or if the circuit board would be affected and did not want to take a chance damaging something. I wrote to Norcold for information: (cut and paste from my email to them - I have a Norcold refrigerator SN XXXXXX model N811 in a 2007 Colorado fifth wheel trailer. I installed a small computer fan outside the refrigerator to help cool the unit during hot weather. The fan draws about .5 amp (12 volts). The fan is wired into the "hot" feed for the fridge. With this arrangement, the fan runs constantly whether the propane flame is on or not. My question is: Would any damage occur to the circuit board if the fan was connected to the propane control valve? This would turn on the fan only when the propane burner is on.) Their reply was: Hello, SN XXXXX Ref # 1021446 We do not recommend altering your unit in any way, that includes adding additional fans. Altering your unit violates your warranty and we have made notes in our warranty system. Please take you unit to an Authorized Norcold Dealer service center for all repairs. If you have additional questions, please contact us. Thank you, Rhonda Consumer Service Thetford Corp/Norcold Inc. 800-543-1219 Opt. 1 I am not sure what the warranty threats are about, (info request made Oct 2017) since the trailer was ten years old at the time of request and obviously out of warranty. Not a very helpful reply since they made no attempt to answer the question. I did not wire the fan to the solenoid so do not know the repercussions (if any) of that. I run the fan manually. I also installed a smaller fan (0.25 amp draw) in the interior of the fridge. I believe this helps to circulate the cold air within the fridge for more uniform cooling, especially when full. We will be passing through Saskatoon mid June and mid July. If you are interested in seeing or discussing what I have done, PM me.447Views0likes0CommentsRe: Is there such a thing as a vent filter?
I do not know how helpful this is, but have you thought about an air filter for a car or truck. They come in various sizes and you would need to get something close to the size you need then put it in place (on top or underneath the vent) with your engineering-spec multi-purpose adhesive. I do not know how restrictive these filters are either but it should be relatively cheap to try. Good luck and let us know what you do and how it works.889Views0likes0CommentsRe: ARRRRRRRGH!! I Can't Put It Back Together! UPDATE!!
Mike: I know you have the manual and it does not show you the information you require. I followed the link provided by K Charles and there is a "chat with a pro" button. Perhaps you can request a picture of the burner assembly you require. Just a thought. Good Luck.487Views0likes0CommentsRe: Newbie questions please help.
I will give you my opinion and you are free to do as you see fit. Adding insulation is always beneficial to keeping warm but camper walls will need a significant amount of insulation improvement to stop frost build up in corners/nooks/crannies when the weather is cold. Covering single pane windows with insulation will help. I have a very old truck camper (70s vintage) that I use only for winter fishing and snowmobiling. I covered the walls, most windows, and roof vents with one inch thick Styrofoam. I heat it with the original propane furnace and ensure I have new CO and smoke detectors suitably placed in the camper. I do not cook in the camper and use it essentially to store my stuff and as a place to sleep. All meals are prepared outside. I will get small amounts of frost in some corners along the some walls and in the closet. I will not go if the temperature are expected to be colder than minus 20 degrees Celsius. For my purposes (trips 5-6 days at a time two or three times a winter) the frost is not a problem and dissipates by next use. I definitely would not recommend a wood burning stove in that small of an area. The problem will be that the stove must be very small therefore will need constant attention/stoking. You will either be opening the door to cool off or will be relighting the stove every few hours. A friend who often accompanies me camps in an enclosed snowmobile trailer with a wood burning stove. Although the stove is large and keeps the trailer warm, it still requires stoking every two hours. Others on this forum have far more knowledge than I do regarding solar but I do not believe that we get enough good sunshine in our Alberta winters to keep batteries charged enough to run a refrigerator and television without having a huge solar array. I do not want to "rain on your parade" and many things can be done depending on how much comfort you are willing to sacrifice. Please keep your safety as the first consideration.768Views0likes0CommentsRe: Could it really be this easy?
Not sure what is in your wet bay but I would make sure the city water connection has antifreeze in it. To do this, make sure the pump is off. Open a tap in the bathroom, then push in the little button in the middle of the city water hook up connection. The reason you do not want the pump on, is because if there is a lot of pressure in the line, when you push the button in, the antifreeze will displace an o ring in the connection. (Ask me how I know) If there is only a little or no pressure, the o ring will remain in place. Also make sure you have anti freeze in your exterior shower/water hose.184Views0likes0CommentsRe: I want to add a hot water recirc line to my trailer
I hope I didn't misunderstand what you are trying to do. Here is my solution. Install the T and valve at the far end of the hot water line. Return the water to a T just before the intake to the water pump (not to the fresh water tank). This will recirculate the cool water and you will not be adding any warm/hot water to your fresh water tank if you get distracted for a short time. This will allow you to still use the cool water in the water line and not fill your grey tank (and conserve your fresh water). Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.211Views0likes0Comments
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