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Re: S&S Montana Ponderosa 9.5 FBSC Camper Owners
Used to have a 2008 11FBSC, with Stablelift. I've a pdf of the S&S brochure for 2008, listing the model features for the 8.5. 9.5 and 11 ft versions. Send a PM if you'd like the file (9 MB) and/or want to hear how it fared. duncan286Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter charging the camper from the trucks batteries.
Yes, have built two systems. One was truck mounted with batteries and inverter beneath, on a 2008 F450, second was a supplemental charging system using truck engine on a 2016 F350. Look for 'supplemental charging system' article at truckcamperadventure website. duncan558Views0likes0CommentsRe: Our new Northstar 12' STC and solar/lithium install
Indeed a great camper, and very nice mods :-) I've got S/N 002 of the model line, also via Bill in NH-- got it Feb 2015. Bill has a lot of DNA in your unit, going back a good ten years. The missing stick storage, resized genny compartment with commercial slide, extra seat cushion, switched rear-view camera, and storage above the compressor refrig are all after mine was built. Same re the height of the microwave and shelving, although I believe my 5'4" wife gets credit for that mod-- two inches lower in yours than mine. If you have a 120VAC outlet at the rear shelf, that was also on Bill's list (and mine to do as a mod). The swing-up seat was another customer's suggestion and Bill ran with it for the last several he ordered; I got one from Rex and just installed it a couple of weeks ago. As for my unit, I built a custom slide for a propane-converted Honda EU2000i, converted the stick storage box to power cord storage, and added a wireless remote power switch for the backup camera. Already had an Efoy fuel cell from my previous camper-- TCM has an article about that in their archives-- so stuck with that as about equivalent bucks instead of going lithium-- stayed with 220 AH of AGM in the factory battery box. Nice job re your battery setup :-) Like you we also did the second cabover wardrobe, sans shelving in our case, but deleted the storage unit on the counter and went with a full-size non-Legun table. I believe the picture of that table option on the Northstar site is from our unit. One other mod you might want to consider down the road is a supplemental roof coating, not so much for a no-leak warranty given how well the roof is made/sealed, but for things like tree strike damage. I did the rvroof dot com polyurea coating from the folks in Florida, and it's saved my butt/roof at least twice so far. No more roof seal maintenance in any case. Enjoy your rig-- we certainly love ours :-)587Views0likes0CommentsRe: Upper Stableload alternative
Second the comment re only engaging under load. StableLoad installation instructions suggest sawing off a corner of the angled rubber block if need be to ensure you don't have continual engagement. If you don't cut them eventually they will wear down (after a whole lot of squeaking, don't ask me how I know). If you've got the right part number for your truck they should be close but not hitting. If in doubt, call Tork Lift tech support and they can tell you how much (and where) you can cut or belt-sand for a bit of ride tuning. Good folks. duncan702Views0likes0CommentsRe: That annoying parking assist alarm...
Before I built these I tried all sorts of different ways to kill the alarm. You can turn it off after you start, but it reinitializes when you shut off the engine. My camper plugs into the 7-pin connector, truck says trailer is attached, but the pesky alarms will be on by default unless you go thru the info display and turn it off. Never remembered until I shifted into reverse. Truck manual is explicit re not being able to disable other than via Info. Sigh. Anyhow, there are easier ways to absorb the sound, but I wanted to play in the shop anyway and these (assuming they don't drop into a puddle somewhere en route to Alaska) don't need glue, tape, etc. Fun project-- YMMV :-)380Views0likes0CommentsThat annoying parking assist alarm...
My new truck came with ultrasonic backup parking assist, and the "collision" alarm sounds when the camper is mounted and I shift to reverse. Not a new problem, saw complaints on a forum somewhere last year but just smiled as it didn't apply... Got *real* tired of the noise-- no way to turn off sensors other than once per key cycle. So, I made some sensor caps from 3/8 PVC trim board, a PVC vent cap, and some rare earth magnets. Got lots of bumper space on my F350 dually-- these are 3.5 inches OD. All the plastic is solvent welded, mags are a press fit to flush with T-88 epoxy underneath. Inner ring is a snug fit over the sensor so there's no sliding on bumps. Central foam is a piece of 3/4 packing foam. Foam plus compliant cap absorb the ultrasonic-- no more noise when I shift to reverse. They work nicely around town, not yet tested on long road trip, but a strip of Gorilla tape is Plan B to ensure they don't go missing. Made two spares just in case. Pic up on Dropbox here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80200697/Backup%20sensor%20caps.jpg duncan2.7KViews0likes13CommentsRe: DC Compressor Refrigerator - UPDATE: Fridge Installed
I've had both the Norcold and the Vitri models. Two of the Vitri, actually, as the first one failed, in part from shipping damage and in part from improper installation/camper construction. Biggest difference is the cabinet-- Norcold is properly insulated and has good door seals, while the Vitri was pretty much uninsulated/tin with leaky seals by comparison. Both use the Danfoss compressor so the peak power is the same, but the insulation and sealing of the Norcold gives you a much lower duty cycle for a given internal/external temp so your average power usage is lower. The other big thing to consider is how the units are installed/vented. Both use a compressor, and the Norcold is designed for compressor and condenser cooling air intake and exhaust into the camper... BUT you'll want either one installed in a compartment set up for the usual propane refrigerator-- lower vent door, roof vent. The more air flow the better in terms of daily power usage and overall compressor life. The Norcold compressor and fan are up high, Vitri stuff is down at the bottom of the box where air flow is rather problematic. That said, if you go with the Norcold (highly recommended :-) and the venting as above, you'll want to stuff some fiberglass insulation beneath and above the box to cut down on the outside air that will otherwise flood into the camper from the roof vent. The other thing the insulation does is filter out the 'skeeters and other critters that can and will get into the refrigerator compartment through the standard 1/4 in screening in the roof cap assembly :-) When you do the installation, either unit, try to add some rigid foam insulation to the inside of the cabinet where the refrigerator will fit, or pack fiberglass abound the sides of the box if room is tight. With my current Norcold, installed/insulated/vented as above, it can run at a nominal 50% duty cycle when the inside camper temp is 95 degrees, dial set at 4 (5 is max) and the door temp will be 35 degrees on top shelf. On the Vitri, same conditions, door temp would be close to 50 degrees. If you measure using a thermometer and water in a cup you might find the indicated temp to be lower, but I suspect still higher than one might want for food preservation. Bottom line, the Norcold has been *much* better for me in terms of maintaining temps and power usage. It for sure has a better insulated and better sealed box. For either unit, be sure to vent the cabinet properly and add whatever other insulation you can. Another consideration, if you have room in your truck, is to carry an Engel refrigerator/freezer. We have a 45 qt unit that goes with us on long road trips-- extra space and backup, lot better than ice if the camper refrigerator isn't cooling properly. duncan238Views0likes0CommentsRe: Need help - looking for non-slideout camper w/ big bathroom
Adam, I really like my Northstar 12STC. It's a non-slide, non-basement dry bath, 6 ft 8 in headroom. At 6 ft 4 I have no issues, fit in shower just fine. I'd looked at Northern Lite (just before they had the fire and rebuilt) but they wouldn't do a compressor refrigerator-- Northstar will, plus make other changes. Very well-built camper. I figure on a loaded-for-trip wet weight of 4000 lbs, and have it on a dually. If you want to go a little lighter, still have headroom and really want a wet bath, try the Igloo 9.5. I've owned a Lance 845, Arctic fox 1150, and S&S 11FBSC -- like this one the best. duncan447Views0likes0CommentsRe: Leveling TC
Used to carry the lego-like blocks, then made ramps from pressure treated 2x6 stock. Got tired of the whole hassle, last two campers have been ordered with a compressor refrigerator. No more leveling-- if the beer or wine glasses can stay on the dinette table and it's level enough to sleep without rolling, we're done. Pull in, park, go play.246Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 20, 202544,029 Posts
