All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsShore power vs Batter maintainerMy storage facility has the ability for me to hookup to shore power while it’s in storage and it’s included with my monthly lease. I have a keystone Cougar 5th, 2020. 1) Should I connect to the power source to keep the batteries charged? 2) Should I connect a battery maintainer instead? 3) Does it matter if I’m turning the battery disconnect switch on anyway….? Appreciate any insight as to why you would recommend one versus the other and why.Solar Power MaintainersI’m either not searching the right words or I’m there isn’t a topic on here about solar powered battery maintainers. I’m looking to use a solar powered battery maintainer that is mounted to my shed and maintain my batteries on the trailer while it’s inside. Has anyone found a system that has a 20-30’ cord on it from the solar panel (outside) to the control module (inside) will work? My shed doesn’t have any power to it.Re: 3 axle break controller issuesGreat input - I agree the 2nd controller makes sense now. I still don’t know why the truck is deciding to not send any voltage....not the best default if you ask me. I tied into the 5th wheel wiring in the front compartment before it went into the under belly and then ran a new 7wire all the way to the back of the 5th that the ATV trailer then plugs into. Thanks for the input!3 axle break controller issuesI have a 2019 Sierra HD with integrated brake controller. I'm towing a 5th wheel camper with two axles and electric brakes on each. Behind the camper I'm towing an ATV trailer with two axles, but only one of them has an electric brake. Towing either of the trailers individually there are no issues with the trucks brake controller to control the brakes on the trailer. But with both trailers connected the truck won't apply any 'juice' to the brakes. It does nothing - no brakes on their trailer. When I manually apply the brake controller it does nothing. GM is telling me the truck is only designed to handle two sets of electric brakes and if I want to handle 3, I would need to add an after market controller to control the 2nd trailer separately. I can understand not having a powerful enough controller, but does it make sense the trucks computer/controller would not apply any 'juice' to the brakes when it senses too much resistance via the 3 sets of brakes? Has anyone had this issue? How did you resolve? I've never towed a 3 axle trailer before, but assuming all three of those axles have brakes don't they? How does the controller work in those instances?Re: Furrion Camera System - backup camera philh wrote: Mmwtdh wrote: I strap the monitor to my rear view mirror so it's just natural to glance up and check behind me.... How do you strap it to the mirror? To the OP, I got our camera system off of Amazon. It was far cheaper than Furion, and I've been happy with it so far. What camera/system did you get off Amazon?Furrion Camera System - backup cameraJust got a new Fifth wheel that is prepped for the Furrion Camera system (rear and sides, as well as a module in the trailer). Anyone have experience with this camera system? It’s really expensive for just a few camera’s, so wondering if its worth the price tag or not. Is the 5” screen big enough or would you recommend the 7”? I’m going to be double-towing a small ATV trailer behind by fifth wheel it so want to have a camera monitoring the trailer for me while I’m driving. If you have any recommendations for other systems that aren’t as expensive please throw them my way. Thanks!Re: Chucking - trouble shooting ivbinconned wrote: At the risk of sending this thread off on a rabbit trail I have a question. Does your truck have a performance “tune”? No tune. Factory.Re: Chucking - trouble shooting TxGearhead wrote: Andersen Ultimate hitch in the truck bed along with the locking plate to the king pin box. ^^Explain this a little more. Do you have a RotoFlex that has to be locked out, or a conventional Morryde with a rubber shear spring? I don't think the shear spring model needs to be locked out for a Andersen or PullLite hitch. But I may not be understanding what you're saying. That aside, I would load up and get the pin weight up, get the truck on the overloads, go to a CAT scale, determine if it's still chucking, then get closer to your tire and axle limits, but not over. Rotoflex - per Andersen they have to be locked out from being able to rotate.Re: Chucking - trouble shootingGot it, yeah that makes sense. I’ll have to check that. Thanks.Re: Chucking - trouble shooting mapguy wrote: A third thing is concerning the factory overload engagement. IS it staying fully engaged or fully disengaged? If spring is bouncing off overloads -the ride suffers greatly Good luck! I don’t know what this is or I’m not understanding what you’re referring to. Thanks.
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RV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts