All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Replace iRV35 with? Ralph Cramden wrote: Have you checked the speaker wiring? I am not a fan of the IRV garbage but Forest River is notorious for wiring the speakers wrong. Dollars to donuts they have speaker ploarity reversed. On our Rockwood they had both outside speakers (a stretch to call that junk a speaker) both on a left channel and both inside on a right, polarity reversed on all. When a speaker recreates a bass note the cone needs to push air as in coming out. With polarity reversed it retracts. I have not checked the polarity. The living room speakers are actually a soundbar below the TV with a crappy sub below there hidden in a cabinet. My main issue is the overall lack of quality in the sound, and I'll be honest, in a 2017 trailer, I'd think they could come up with something that just looks better and works better than what I had in my 2004 trailer.Replace iRV35 with?I've got a brand new 2017 Forest River TT, but it came with a POS Furrion TV (easy to replace) and an iRV35 stereo system with a sound bar (sounds terrible) and subwoofer (also sounds like ****). I'm looking to replace the iRV for sure. The TV I can deal with for a while. Has anyone found anything comparable? There's limited counter/cabinet space, so an in-dash type system would be necessary. The basics I'm looking for: HDMI IN (FireStick, etc) HDMI OUT (to TV) FM Radio Aux Input (iDevice for music) USB (nice but not a deal breaker) DVD (Blu-Ray would be even better!) Dual (or triple!) speaker zones. I don't particularly care if it runs on 12V, but that would be nice. I've searched and searched, but haven't had much luck. I've looked into the various offerings from the major in-dash players, but nothing I've found has even an HDMI out to play movies on the TV. Ideally I'd need something that will fit in the space vacated by the iRV, but some cabinet work is ok. Or...should I just look into a soundbar or similar?Re: Breaking NewsBah. CW service has not managed to impress me whatsoever.Re: Battery Voltage Monitor tenbear wrote: Here is my power monitoring panel. Voltage and current for both AC and DC. Source for those meters? I'm particularly interested in the AC meter!Re: PumpI've got one of the Flojet Sensor VSD pumps. I love it.Re: Residential Refrigerator???No issues with a MSW inverter and the refrigerator?Re: Residential Refrigerator???As I stated in the original post, I'm done playing around with the absorption fridge. It's been nothing but a hassle and a point of concern when it comes to the trailer. Sure, it's nice to be able to have the option of propane. However, when I weigh how often I actually use it on propane and how often I would HAVE to use it on propane... I'd likely look for an inverter. I'm going to be buying a generator too. Lots of $$ to play with if I don't drop the $1500 on an absorption model.Residential Refrigerator???I've got a travel trailer with a Dometic RM2652 absorption fridge. The fridge doesn't fridge anymore. :) I've found this refrigerator at Home Depot: HMDR1030WE CLICKY Does anyone have any real-world experience with this model? I'm not interested in the "this may work" or "the manual says it won't". I want REAL experience. I'm not particularly interested in fighting with the absorption fridge any longer, and I believe that going with a residential model will work for me.Dometic or Norcold? Electric?It appears as though my Dometic fridge is on the blink. I went out to the trailer to get ready for a trip, only to discover that the fridge internal temp was over 80 degrees. The trailer sits in my driveway, leveled, plugged in to shore power when it is not on the road or in a campground. I switched to propane, and it started to cool...somewhat. I can't seem to get the refrigerator compartment to stay below 41 and the freezer...well, the Freezer pops are more like slushy pops. When this trip is over, I will be taking the entire thing apart and making sure there aren't any blockages, etc. I'm sort of mentally preparing myself for this to get rather expensive. My parents have a '14 TT with a Norcold fridge. It works amazingly well. We are currently across from each other in the campground, so both fridges are in comparable settings, and even on the same side of the TT's so the sun exposure is the same as well. Plus, theirs is the one that everyone is constantly opening and closing the door. All mine has in it are spare drinks and the freezer pops. If I am unable to fix mine with no more than simple repairs, cleaning, etc...I am seriously considering replacing it. It's somewhat been a hassle since I bought the trailer almost a year ago. (2004 Aljo). I suspect it was not maintained, and since I have found all sorts of other "surprises" on the trailer, I'm not holding much hope for a simple fix. With all of that being said, I see my options as this: 1) Replace with new Dometic fridge 2) Replace with new Norcold fridge 3) Replace cooling 'module' and keep existing fridge cabinet 4) Screw it all and go full electric with a compressor model from Lowes, etc. I'd like to have the ability to run on propane, but the reality is that I'm plugged in just about everywhere. Just about. Thoughts?Re: Uninteruptible Power Supply as RV Inverter?Yes, they can be 12v....for the smaller units. Anything over 500va is generally going to have two batteries in series to create 24v, four batteries to create 48v, etc. Now, as for the time that they will run, many of the larger units have extended battery capabilities, allowing them to run for longer periods of time. I have several in the racks at work that are (intentionally) oversized for the load in the rack. They will run for 30-45 minutes or more easily without overheating. Granted, small load on a big unit. The only reason they stop running is because the battery runs out during a power outage. Will you be able to do what you want for $100 though? Probably not.
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