Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Joined 19 years ago
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Re: Correct Sealant for Windows, Marker Lights, Rain Gutter, ?
Pbutler97 wrote: That silicone residue BS is just that....BS. RV forum nonsense. I have a 700+ square square foot garage with a leaking metal roof that you are more than welcome to come over and show me just how easy it is to remove silicone without residue so I can apply something that lasts a lot longer than silicone without leaking. Silicone caulking on anything that you hold near and dear to your heart in the hopes that it will never leak is a pipe dream. There is at a min of 400 linear feet of silicone garbage you can "erase" with your name reserved on it if you want a real challenge. To win the challenge, you must complete the removal in less than 8 hrs, use no chemicals and it must be 100% silicone free.. The panels are 2ft wide so there is lots and lots of seams for you to clean.. The only thing I found that works is to completely bridge the silicone with a 6" wide self sticking rubber roofing membrane. My only other choice would to be rip up the entire roof and start over with fresh steel at the cost of $10K at now days pricing. Once silicone decides to become unstuck in random places, you can not ever get it to reseal, new silicone does not stick to old silicone, no other caulk, paint or even tar will stick to it. And by the way, you believed a RV "factory rep"? Yeah, you are gullible. Every RV on this earth is built using cheap Butyl rubber caulking for things like doors, windows and trim.. All told at a cost of at the most $10 for the entire RV.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Replacement window
azbohunter wrote: Gdetrailer wrote: azbohunter wrote: I remedied the problem, I sold the rig and bought a two year old Artic Fox. :h Seems like an extreme way to "fix" the problem? My previous rig was 20 years old, had lots and lots of miles on it and we spend 4 to 5 months in it every years. It gets used...If I could have found replacement windows we might still have it but time was right! Mine was 30yrs old when I bought it with a broken window. Local home and business glass shop told me to remove the window frame and bring to them. Took frame to my local home and business glass shop, they matched the glass color, then cut the glass to size, then sent glass out to have it tempered, once they got the glass back they installed into the frame. I reinstalled the frame with fresh glass in the window opening. Glass shop at that time (10 yrs or so ago) charged me a whole $50 for a 3' by 2' piece of glass including the Tempering and installation into the frame. Took about 1 week to get new glass. I still think yours may have been able to be replaced for a more reasonable cost than what you were quoted but that was your choice. Glad you are happy with your latest rig.1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: anti siphon device ?
Matt_Colie wrote: Charlie, This is a common issue on many small boats as well. I have cured it for several owners just by disassembling and cleaning the part of the pump. Most pumps could be disassembled easily, but some are service proof. Matt They must have really cheapened them, we would prime the pump before leaving for a 3 week adventure every summer and the pump would hold the prime unless someone failed to return the handle back to proper position.. The one we had, was not self priming, had to hold a cup of water to the faucet and pump like mad to establish prime.. Was a real pain if you didn't have some water handy to get it to pump water again :S953Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2019 Kodiak water in wheel well
Thanks for the update! Fiberglass and metals have different expansion/contraction ratios. Doesn't mean they are bad or junk, but it does require some consideration to how it is constructed and what type of sealant/caulking is used. As I mentioned before, manufacturer pretty much flubbed the build by turning the wheel well metal up on the outside of the siding. So basically it is a manufacturing design flaw. Manufacturer should have turned down the wheel well sheet metal, then ran the siding down to cover the turned down sheet metal. Then all that would be needed is a dab of caulking between the inside of the siding and the sheet metal. Think of like shingles on a roof, the shingle on top of the lower shingle sheds water over the top of the lower shingle.. In your case, they installed it backwards with the top of the lower shingle on top of the bottom of the upper shingle..752Views0likes0CommentsRe: TV and Internet
thomasmnile wrote: Lwiddis wrote: Not correct, thomasmnile. The California Public Utilities Commission regulates traditional wireline telecommunications facilities and services in California and is also the state video franchising authority in California. Your state, OP’s state may or may not. Regulation of Cable/Satellite Providers Reread the OP's post. Appears they are referring to their part time residence in Florida. Ultimate regulation of the provider is FCC. In Florida locally, it's the city or county government, and all they do is negotiate franchise agreements which these cable providers or their predecessors (since they have changed hands many times over the year and absorbed by Big Cable). I can tell you from experience ranting to the franchise grantors is a fundamental waste of time. Gotta keep the franchise fees and taxes (state and local) coming. State PSC here does electric utilities (private, not municipally owned), legacy wireline phone companies (who has that?) gas utilites, and pipeline transmission companies. No state oversight that I'm aware of in 5 decades living here. Did you even bother reading the document in the link you posted? "The Federal Communications Commission and local franchising authorities are responsible for enforcing a variety of cable television regulations. A franchising authority is the local municipal, county or other government organization that regulates certain aspects of the cable television industry at the state or local level. The name of the franchising authority may be on the front or back of your cable bill. If this information is not on your bill, contact your cable company or your local town or city hall. The Commission expects cable operators to follow all of its rules and regulations. However, the FCC has designed enforcement mechanisms to protect consumers if these rules are not followed. You should always contact your cable company first when you have a complaint. In many cases, the customer service representatives at your cable company will be able to assist you and solve your problem. The telephone number for your cable company should be on your cable bill. Your cable company has jurisdiction over the following issues: Programming carried on the system. With the exception of rules that require cable systems to carry certain local broadcast stations, cable systems decide which programming services to carry. Therefore, you should contact your cable system if it has dropped a particular channel. Carriage of FM and AM radio stations. Charges for pay-per-view or pay-per-channel programming. The rates charged for this type of programming are not regulated." Further it says.. "If you are not satisfied with your cable company's response, contact your local franchising authority. Questions or complaints handled by your franchising authority include: Rates for basic service and equipment, installation and service charges related to basic service. This refers to the lowest level of cable service and generally includes local broadcast channels and public, educational and governmental access channels. Rates for cable programming services tiers, also known as "enhanced basic." Cable programming services tiers ("CPSTs") include those programming services except the basic service tier, and does not include any premium channels (such as HBO or Showtime) or any pay-per-view services. The CPST rate is determined by the cable operator and is not subject to government review. Customer service problems, including billing disputes, office hours, telephone availability of personnel, installations, outages and service calls. Local franchise authorities may adopt the Commission's Customer Service rules, at any time. The local franchise authority must provide the cable operator 90-days notice prior to enforcing the federal standards and may not adopt more stringent standards without the cable operator's consent. Franchise fees, which are determined and retained by local governments. Signal quality, including interference and reception difficulties. Use of public, educational, and governmental (PEG) channels. These channels may be required as part of the franchise agreement. Your local franchise authority can provide information on any terms or conditions of use." Further on it says.. "You should contact the FCC if you have complaints or questions about the following issues: Cable Consumer Complaints. File complaints at https://consumercomplaints.fcc.gov/hc/en-us Equal Employment Opportunity (EEO) complaints. Contact the FCC, Media Bureau, Policy Division, EEO Branch, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554. Signal leakage from cable systems, which can result in interference to other users of the spectrum, including aeronautical services. Contact 1-888-225-5322 or send your inquiry to FCC, Consumer & Governmental Affairs Bureau, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554. Cable home wiring questions. If you believe that your cable company has violated the rules governing your ability to access and to use cable home wiring, please send a letter outlining the facts to the FCC, Media Bureau, Policy Division, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554. Commercial limits for childrens' programming. Write to the FCC, Enforcement Bureau, Investigations & Hearings Division, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554. Indecency and obscenity. Generally, the rules concerning the content of programming on cable channels are not as strict as the rules concerning programming content on non-cable channels. If you object to programming on a cable system, you may contact the FCC to determine what rules may be applicable and what action may be appropriate. Call 1-888-225-5322 or send your inquiry to FCC, 45 L Street NE, Washington, D.C. 20554." Now, if you stayed fully awake reading that, you will notice that the absolute first place to start is YOUR LOCAL CABLE CO OFFICE. IF no action or attempt to make it right THEN go to your LOCAL governing body (IE City, County officials) provided the Cable Co has a written contract with that LOCAL governing body (Cable cos often only have a written contract agreement with the local city for non compete reasons which prevent other cable cos from coming in to that area). If all else fails, then contact FCC with a complaint. It is the duty of the local cable co to make things right. FCC has much bigger things to do than chase down random cable co outages that do not affect RF broadcast transmissions.795Views0likes0CommentsRe: Iota sale 90 amp surplus sale
MrWizard wrote: Doug you are correct, i posted this because i have first hand experience, buying things from them for many years, and i have always gotten quality items, never anything, that is damaged or non functional, https://www.allelectronics.com/item/bc-1290/13.4vdc-90a-power-supply/charger-used/1.html Over $75 is free shipping, under $75. Flat rate $8 most places I have bought stuff from them lots of times over the yrs. Never once got junk, was as advertised. I posted the 90A one sometime ago when they first got it in. They have also had 30A and 55A units in the past for better prices. I believe from the ads on the 30 and 55A units they mentioned that they are "working pulls" from equipment that never was sold or used. In other words, they were prepped (plug cut off and 1/4" QC terminations added) and installed in some sort of equipment that for some reason the manufacturer decided to not sell and scrapped out all inventory, selling off what they can to recoup money. Because the plugs were cut off and no original boxes and packaging they cannot be sold as new. Would make a killer 12V power supply for HAM equipment for the current capacity and price.. I should have grabbed a couple of the 30A or 55A versions as they were much cheaper than $125.. Heck a 13.8V 75A MFJ will set you back about $350.453Views0likes0CommentsRe: anti siphon device ?
wa8yxm wrote: I added a check valve... But so long as the faucet outlet is far enough above anything it can suck up it's just a labor issue. Oh and it's not "Siphoning" back it's leaking back via the check vlave in the pump. If I remember correctly (been 45yrs ago) when my Dad had a slide in TC it used the same type of manual pump. With that type of pump, you must make sure you return the handle back to the prime/store position which if I remember correctly the handle was in the up position. Pulled the handle down would pump water out then you had to return the handle to the up position.. Failure to return handle to up position would result in the same issue the OP has, lost prime. Then you would have to go through repriming the pump.. Can't find any instructions on these pumps to look at and verify correct position for storing so OP might wish to try storing in the opposite position they are currently using to see if it stops losing prime. Otherwise might be a bad built in check valve and replacing faucet or adding a check valve may fix it.953Views0likes0CommentsRe: Proper Accumulator Tank Pressure
egarant wrote: I read the manual, I even quoted the one part of the manual that I had a question on....is the RESTART pressure the same as the Turn on Pressure? That's all..... There is no such thing as "restart pressure" in water systems. You have turn on (IE the "lowest" pressure) and turn off (IE the "highest" pressure). Pump will only "turn on" when the pressure is less or equal to the turn on pressure. Pump will "turn off" when the pressure reaches the highest pressure and will not turn back on until the pressure falls to or below the turn on pressure.. The pump will not turn on (or "restart" as you put it) until the pressure is equal to or less than the turn on pressure. So your pressure tank precharge in order to make the system work correctly SHOULD be set no higher than the TURN ON pressure. The precharge pressure however can be less than the turn on pressure to a certain extent and still work fine. The well driller that I had in to replace my home well pump and pressure tank yrs ago actually sets the precharge 2 PSI below the turn on pressure.. Not sure exactly why, but it works fine, the guy does that for a living so he must have some reasoning for doing it that way. To be clear, turn on is the lowest pressure. Pump will not turn on between the turn off and turn on after it has been tripped to off until pressure drops to or below the turn on pressure.. You do not want the precharge to be higher than the turn on, otherwise, why bother with the pressure tank? Turn off is the highest pressure.1.8KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Proper Accumulator Tank Pressure
egarant wrote: shastagary wrote: ACCUMULATOR TANK: Model 182 INSTALLATION MANUAL Thanks, but I do have those manuals, I'm interested in what the proper set pressure... Egads man, don't be so lazy, read the manual! From the manual that was linked above (took me a whole 2 seconds to find the info).. "RV/MARINE APPLICATIONS WITH PRESSURE SWITCH-CONTROLLED PUMPS The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation. The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the pre-charge set at the SAME pressure as the pump’s pressure switch “turn on” setting. Typically, a 45 psi [3 bar] pump will turn on around 30 psi [2.07 bar]. Therefore, the pre-charge should also be 30 psi [2.07 bar]. The pre-charge MUST be set in a “static” condition (pump off and at least one water fixture opened). Depending on pre-charge pressure to the accumulator, in relation to the pump turn on/off pressures, stored liquid is about 2 to 4 oz. [60-120 ml]. If accumulator tank pre-charge exceeds pump turn on pressure, the liquid volume is reduced." Simply put, find the TURN ON pressure of YOUR pump, set accumulator pressure to the TURN ON pressure of YOUR PUMP. Is that clear enough?1.8KViews0likes0Comments
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