All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Air conditioner causing fridge temp to riseThanks for all that information. I haven't done any cleaning on the system in the past few years I have owned it. Since the fridge always worked well, it didn't occur to me. But assuming that lack of cleaning and improper leveling were the culprits. Would the problem they cause manifest itself gradually over time? My problem seems to have suddenly happened in a single day. With the fridge going from cooling wonderfully one day and hardly at all the next.Re: Air conditioner causing fridge temp to riseSorry. I neglected to mention I run the fridge with propane. We boondock. So using the heating element is usually out of the question. But I did run the generator to try using electric to see if it acted any better. But it was actually worse. I think the element might have been giving problems a couple years ago during last time I used it. But became a non-issue with using propane ever since. I am only just now seeing this issue. The door seals are like new. And seal up nice and tight all way around. Although. If they were an issue, they never stopped the fridge/freezer from doing its job. I don't think they apply in this case. The problem seems to stem from the back of the fridge. The late afternoons/evenings are the time of day when the doors are typically opened and closed numerous times with the family being home. Right now the fridge thermistor reads 33. Mid 30s is typical this time of night. Leaving the door shut overnight, itll get down to around 26 reading. Normally everything in the fridge would be frozen by morning at a setting of 9. But that won't be the case. I can put a jug of water in the freezer and it takes 2 days to begin to freeze. Whereas, before. It would freeze overnight. From the way I understand it. The fridge fins work off the freezer. So I am thinking the freezer just isn't operating as cold as it should. SO what would cause that to happen? I think my Norcold is a 62x 2-way model.Re: Air conditioner causing fridge temp to riseI have gone to the top. But can't really tell whether the heat coming out is increased. I basically feel the chimney effect on my hand. I have noticed when I put my hand on the wall on the upper fridge side (above the stove), it feels warmer. That would be the air space above the fridge. In the back half of the freezer, things freeze. But they don't so much on the front side. So I have to place a foil barrier inside to get meats freezing fully 24 hours later. Cups on the door do not freeze. They used to. Clearly this fridge is putting out less on 9 then it was on 6 just a month ago. It has become super sensitive to temperature changes. Although this has never been the case in the past. So I am trying to get to the bottom of "what went wrong". Thanks. I would like to mention I have tried unplugging the thermistor for a day. As well as tried sliding it up towards the top of the fin, which helped some. But not enough. The fridge worked so well before that the fins on the right end would ice over regularly in the summer months. But lately, there is little to no frost. Except in the back of the freezer. But zero "freezer fog" when you open the door.Air conditioner causing fridge temp to riseAfter spending a few years in my 2003 KZ Sportsmen, this is the first year I have had to deal with temperature related issues with my fridge. I noticed it began having problems staying cold. I usually have my Norcold on 6. But just to keep things cold enough I have had to put it on 9. The highest setting. I chalked it up to the reason being the hot, humid weather we have been having. But had decided to do some experiments to get to the bottom of it. At first I tried removing the rain cap to allow heat to move it faster. AT times I seemed to help. At other times, not so much. Then I tried leaving the cover off the back wall of the fridge. Also, putting up a tarp to keep the sun off that opening. I even put a small fan in there to help move air upwards better. This didn't really solve the problem. The fridge does manage to make it down to 26 through the night when things cool down more. Today we had a mild day for a change. So I didn't run the ceiling AC. The fridge stayed at 27 all day long. Even after the sun came out to torture us. Later in the afternoon, I decided to run the AC. Not 10 minutes later, the fridge was showing 33. Then finally went up to 37, which has been typical. So I am thinking there is heat coming from somewhere in the ceiling that is affecting the cooling unit. Or is this just a coincidence? Any ideas?Camco 55333 generator adapter a fire hazard?Hi Back in 2015 I bought a 4000 watt generator to use with my 30A RV. Since it had a twist lock connection, I had to find an adapter. The Camco was it. And it is rated at 30A. We have had zero problems out of it until recently. Recently, I switched out the camper charge controller after finding out that "dumb" chargers arent suitable for charging batteries. The new one has a multi stage feature which does a great job. The only catch is that it ties up more of our power. Since we don't use that much, it isnt ever a problem. But I could tell it uses more because when I run the microwave, it kicks the generator's breaker switch. This only happens if the charger is in BOOST mode. If I switch it out, the microwave runs fine. This is a point I am making to clarify that the 30A breaker on the generator is working. All in all. It is clear that we are pulling close to the 30A max more constantly than before. But that shouldnt be a problem since the Camco is rated at 30A. RIGHT? NOT. I recently went out to check out the generator and unplugged the cord. I immediately saw the dreadful sight of a melted adapter stuck to my camper cord's plug. I had to pry it off with a screwdriver and sand the blades of the cord. The adapter is completely unsuitable for use. So it is NOT suitable for 30A, even though it clearly states it on the adapter! All that said and done. Does anyone know of a product that actually works and won't melt? Thankfully my other generator allows me to plug my cord straight in.Re: Help choosing the right converter/charger?You guys have been really helpful. I'd probably be lost without this forum. lol. My solar controller is one of those Tracer MPPT that simply gives a blinking green light when the batteries are fully charged. Assuming its accurate. SO I will pick up the digital meter and put the other two batteries back on. I have a pretty basic understanding of electronics and such. But I still don't really understand how a charger can tell the difference between two batteries versus four being connected to the circuit. The extra two batteries seemed to be what was keeping things down before, since I believe the Parallax couldn't hack it. But I am wondering if it would be a smart idea to put on the two extra batteries and then switch the PD to Boost mode and let it go. Assuming it will not hurt them and eventually switch back to Auto when it needs to? I just don't want to fry anything. I'm amazed at some of the knowledge members have here. ;) Thanks!Re: Help choosing the right converter/charger?SO I reckon it looks as if I better be picking up a digital meter? Do you have any certain recommendation for one of those? Possibly on Amazon? I don't want to spend a whole lot since I rarely need one. But will gladly spend what I have to on one that does the job. I have seen one at Walmart but don't have much faith in things Made in China.Re: Help choosing the right converter/charger?Thanks for the replies. It so happens, because my old charger had problems charging 4 batteries, I had taken 2 of them off for the time being. So with this new unit, it is charging 2 batteries. So I figured it wouldnt take so darn long. It ran all day and late last night. But kept blinking rapidly. I think it was putting out a charge. But not as good as I expected. I can't back it up since I don't have the equipment to check. And I suppose i need to get it. But for now, I tried turning on Boost for a few hours. And it remained in that mode. We also had some sun today, so the solar charger was likely working as well. After the few hours I dropped it back to Auto. So I really have no idea how much charging this new unit does. It seems kinda odd to me that the batteries would be that low considering they have been running everything pretty well up to this point.Re: Help choosing the right converter/charger?I finally received the PD4655V and got it hooked up. Took about an hour. It seems to work well. The manual states that the charge light will blink 2 or 3 times a second when in normal charge mode (90% or higher). Although I am counting more like 4 blinks a second. And it has been this way for about 4 hours. I would appreciate if anyone who has used this converter could shed some insight on the light's behavior. The manual is pretty direct about that. But I just wonder if a faster blink might mean something the book doesn't mention. Just trying to make sure the charger is working properly.Re: Help choosing the right converter/charger?Thanks for the advice about the Boondocker. I think I will stay with the 55 to 60 amp range. My camper already has a 45 amp. But I am sure it doesn't juice up the wire like the new one will. I am unsure what size wire comes off the batteries running into the camper. I am sure it is whatever is standard on a single battery TT. The PD4655V is a bit pricey to me. But probably well worth it. I wouldnt mind going with one cheaper. But I am not certain how much cutting I would need to do without going with the drop-in upgrade.
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