mowermech
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Re: Side by side towing
Second Chance wrote: I don't think any of the options above would be legal behind a travel trailer. Double-towing is only legal behind fifth wheels. Rob It depends on the state in which you are traveling. In some states (Washington immediately comes to mind) Double towing (non commercial) is not allowed, period! Do NOT go to Washington State if you are towing doubles. In some states, double towing behind a bumper pull trailer is allowed (Montana, for one). In some states, the second trailer MUST be a watercraft (No, I do not remember which ones). Some states require a special license for towing doubles (Non-commercial Class A; IIRC, California is one). It is YOUR responsibility to know the laws in the state in which you are traveling.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Tires- LT or ST
Huntindog wrote: Grit dog wrote: ^Bingo. Something lost on the “LT tires only” crowd. But as I mentioned above, there are a couple 15” LRE tires out there. May have to upsize to a 235. However there is a virtual plethora of good heavy duty 15” ST tires available. AND not horribly expensive to boot. And universally available. No sense in trying to reinvent the wheel. Literally or figuratively. Nothing is "lost" Changing rim sizes sizes is commonly done in order to run better tires. For some reason, the anti LT tire crowd insists that one MUST use the factory sizes. How do you like the 37"s on your TV? "Factory size tires"?? Interesting. I checked the sticker on the Jayco I just bought because it had LT tires on it and I wondered what the factory called for. Glory be, the factory sticker called for LT tires! If they were good enough for the Jayco factory, they are certainly good enough for me! I think I will leave them on there...1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: 2019 coleman 264RL tire pressure?
Grit dog wrote: mowermech wrote: You could always use the redneck/jack-pine savage method of finding correct tire pressures: 1. Load the vehicle to the "normal" load usually carried. 2. On a hard, dry, flat surface make some chalk marks across the tire tread. 3. Drive the vehicle for a hundred yards or so. 4. Check the chalk marks for wear: a. If the marks are gone, the tire is properly inflated for the present load. b. If the marks are worn away in the center, the tire is over inflated. c. If the marks are worn away on the edges, the tire is under inflated. NOTE: This method works for all on-road vehicles, and should be done with the tires cold. This is ok to tell if a tire is grossly over or under inflated but literally makes no sense and has no bearing on the OPs question, unless he’s somehow stranded in the middle of Death Valley with an air compressor and no pressure gauge or some other scenario equally as ridiculous. I have always been taught (by civilian and military instructors) that for safety you want the maximum contact patch between the tires and the road. So, for maximum traction and braking, I want the chalk mark to wear away evenly across the tire tread. If it wears only in the middle or on the edges, that means the contact patch is quite small! I do NOT want that! When the brakes (not breaks) are strongly applied, that small contact patch will slide. Not a good idea, IMO. Of course, YMMV...891Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2019 coleman 264RL tire pressure?
You could always use the redneck/jack-pine savage method of finding correct tire pressures: 1. Load the vehicle to the "normal" load usually carried. 2. On a hard, dry, flat surface make some chalk marks across the tire tread. 3. Drive the vehicle for a hundred yards or so. 4. Check the chalk marks for wear: a. If the marks are gone, the tire is properly inflated for the present load. b. If the marks are worn away in the center, the tire is over inflated. c. If the marks are worn away on the edges, the tire is under inflated. NOTE: This method works for all on-road vehicles, and should be done with the tires cold.510Views0likes0CommentsRe: 38 gallon honey wagon?
Many years ago I bought a 15 gallon tote thinking it would be great to have. Then, I realized that our camping at the time always meant we were at an RV park with full hookups or at a Federal or State campground where there was no dump station. So, the tote stayed under a work bench in the shop gathering dust for several years until I sold it in a garage sale for $15. These days, as a "Senior Citizen" (80+) all of our travel in the RV is almost always to full hookup RV parks, except for two Ham Radio trips per year. For those, I can dump on the way home. My point being, before investing in one of those things, give due consideration to the logistics of it. Will you actually have a use for it? Some folks do, but I sure didn't!895Views0likes0CommentsRe: portable grey waste disposal cart
eastbaygal123 wrote: Thank you,ToedToes. I was just wondering about that. I would never dump grey water on the ground, or in a pit toilet. I might be better off getting one of those simple containers that have 2 wheels and a handle and just wheeling it to the dump site. Dump site? Many State and Forest Service campgrounds around here have no such facility, and pouring your waste water into the vault toilets is against the rules. That is why the tote that I bought lived under the work bench out in the shop for many years, until I sold it for $15 in a garage sale! When the nearest dump station is 5 to 50 miles away, that tote was useless. Good luck.697Views0likes0CommentsRe: Jeep toad ?
Interesting about the "chipped key" for 2005 and 2006 Wranglers Years ago, I had a 2006 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited that I had spare keys for made at Ace Hardware. No chips. The stock keys had a plastic cover on them, but there was no evidence of any chips. The Ace Hardware keys worked just fine. My current 2005 Wrangler Unlimited; same thing. I carry an Ace Hardware key in my wallet, and there is another in a magnetic box hidden under the Jeep. Both work just fine for starting and driving the Jeep. I can only relate my personal experience. I was going to check the Owner's Manual, but I discovered I don't have one. Perhaps I will do an online search for it. EDIT: So, I searched for the Owner's Manual, and found a PDF file. It is readily apparent that Jeep installed, in some Wranglers, a Sentry Key Immobilizer System that had a chipped ignition key. Neither of the two Wranglers I have owned over the years had that system installed. My son's 2003 Rubicon doesn't have it either. NOTE: ALL of those vehicles sold new in California, where the system was considered to be in high demand. NOTE 2: Rumor has it that the system has a high failure rate when the vehicle becomes 10 to 20 years old, and Jeep has no parts available to fix it. It must be disconnected in the steering column, and the ECU reprogrammed to disable it so it can not be reconnected. I do not know if that is true. NOTE 3: If the plastic on your ignition key (2001-2006) is concave on both sides, it is non-chipped. If it is fat (convex) on one or both sides, it is probably chipped. Mine is concave both sides.786Views0likes0CommentsRe: Using my Class A in freezing weather?
Yes, cold weather living is doable! We once spent a Montana winter in a 32 foot Suncrest Class A. I built the water line out of hard copper tubing, heat taped and insulated. We had several other ideas that would not be good for something that will move in a few days. As for the Wet Bay, just put a 60 watt light bulb in there, in a Trouble Light cover. Keep it away from plastic stuff (I had to replace the bay light, it warped from the heat!). All I can say is, when RVing in cold weather, even at 20 below zero, Common Sense is king! Plan ahead, and THINK! As I said, it CAN be done! Good luck.629Views0likes0CommentsRe: black tank digester
valhalla360 wrote: Pro: Makes you feel like you are doing something. Cons: It costs money and doesn't accomplish anything. Just use plenty of water and the tank will be fine. It's a holding tank not a digester and there are plenty of microbes in your natural deposits to digest the poo anyway. X3657Views0likes0Comments
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