normared
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Re: Norcold 962 fridge giving error code; dc voltage too high
How to reset the refrigerator high-temp switch (L1-oP error code) 1. Leave the refrigerator turned on. 2. Access compartment door on the outside of RV. 3. Locate the black plastic recall kit box. Confirm that the red LED is lit and not flashing. (If it's not lit or it's flashing, you have a different problem, so these instructions don't apply.) 4. If the recall kit box is not easily accessible, pull on it gently to remove it. It's held on by a simple spring clamp. Use caution as some of the wires leading to the box may be short, and you don't want to damage the circuit board by pulling on them too hard. 5. Slide your flat-blade screwdriver into each of the three clips that hold the box cover onto the base to open the clips. Lift the cover off the base. Do not detach any of the wires attached to the circuit board--the board needs to be powered to reset the switch. 6. Touch your hand and your magnet to the metal interior of the compartment to discharge any static electricity. 7. Locate the 'reed switch' on the circuit board. It's directly above the lit-red LED. It looks like a small black rectangular component, about 1/2" long and 1/8" wide. It says "SWITCH" next to it although your circuit board may look different as there are different revisions of the recall kit. 8. Touch a magnet to the right end of the reed switch and hold it there for about 5 seconds. (Avoid touching any other part of the circuit board.) Simply moving the magnet around the switch won't do it; it takes prolonged contact at the right spot. When the switch resets, you may hear a faint click, and the red LED will go out. 9. Go inside and verify that the refrigerator is on, stopped beeping, and the front panel display shows no messages. 10. Wait 15-20 minutes to be sure that the refrigerator continues to operate normally (there some reports of the switch tripping again after a reset; maybe due to residual water on the circuit board) 11. Line up the three clips on the recall box base with the cover, and press the cover into place so that the clips snap shut. 12. Re-clamp the recall box in its original location. Ensure all the wires are firmly connected to the circuit board. 13. Replace the refrigerator access compartment door. NOTE: this is for informational purposes only. although this worked to reset my error code, use this at your own risk.515Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigerator/freezer issues
Thanks for you post and advice, mchero. You were right about the placement of the two fans on our unit. When we pulled out our fridge we checked them (I didn't even know they were there!) and they were working fine, but my tech guy also said it wouldn't hurt to put a small fan in the outside compartment door at the bottom of the fridge blowing upwards -- to supplement those small 4" factory fans -- allowing them to pull out even more heat. I'll do that, too. BTW: our cooling unit fix is now complete and the fridge is working great again. We bought a Norcold factory replacement cooling unit, so it is guaranteed for a year, + labor is included if something happens.463Views0likes0CommentsRe: Refrigerator/freezer issues
My situation as we are in the process of fixing my 7 year-old Norcold which stopped cooling altogether. 120v electric and gas systems are both running to the fridge fine, but it won't cool down on either one. The problem IS the cooling unit --- found little tiny yellow colored granule-type bits in the bottom of the outside compartment. That means ammonia is leaking out somewhere on the back of the fridge. This problem is fixable, but the cooling unit replacement part (basically the internal guts of the frig) is right at $1600! Coming from Indiana, wonder it that means it's 'Amish' and will last a long time. Considered dumping the RV fridge for a residential, but removing the RV one (windshield has to come out!!!), changing the setups for it, then installing a residential unit and trimming it out will actually cost more than fixing this one. The other good part of it is that maybe my ice-maker will finally be working again! After researching here, I think I'm making the right choice for me. >>> DOUG: This is a good time to install cooling fans? Could you post something about how we would do that, and where to place them for the best effect? And THANKS for all you do here, I'm learning a lot.463Views0likes0CommentsRe: Check Your Roof Caulking Folks!!
As a |preventative only| I sealed my front & rear roof cap seams with a single-wide strip of Eternabond years ago (no, it's not real pretty, but it works). Now I kinda wish I'd had the skill to do the whole roof with it -- but I know that would 'be wrong'...376Views0likes0CommentsRe: Motor oil weight for triton v10
Oldme wrote: Ford Oil By vehicle year Thank you SO MUCH for this official Ford link. This is an interesting thread, and the intense knowledge of the subject matter by many of the posters is both obvious and impressive.... but -my being a simpleton- all of this viscosity and cam bearing stuff is way over my head. I just wanted to be reminded what oil to use in my V-10. Appreciate it.539Views0likes0CommentsRe: Millenicom Customer Accounts Acquired by Verizon
diveman52 wrote: "Any one what to buy a good MIFI device?" HA - I've got TWO of them now!!! Update: Verizon DID honor the 20GB limit, but they have deemed that there will be no contracts needed and the price will be $99.99 a month. Of course, that 20gig will ONLY be available to (former) Millenicom customers. Call 800.233.8974 to get thru to someone who knows about this. I talked to a girl named Melissa she was great. AND NO Verizon CONTRACT, so if they start sucking again, we're gone!138Views0likes0CommentsRe: Millenicom Customer Accounts Acquired by Verizon
I have made contact with Verizon concerning the buy-out of Millenicom wifi / hotspot service. The new deal basically: you may keep your current wifi / hotspot device, continue to get 20GB of data monthly, at the same price of $89.99 (with a Verizon contract) - for one year. After that, the price will increase to $99.99. In short, 'nothing will change' except you will have to enter into a verizon contract. You still use the same hotspot device you got from Millenicom. The GOOD news of this is that it appears that Verizon will {grandfather the 20GB per month data levels} of all users (as in "former" Millenicom customers) into the Verizon service. That 20GB level will not change according to Verizon CS, but that is only available to those that currently have Millenicom --- keep in mind the current price of 10GB data with Verizon costs $120 a month... So it's bad, but it could be worse?110Views0likes0CommentsRe: Onan 5.5 HJAB-901A starting problem
romantraveler writes: "I had exactly the same problem and got the same code. The technician said it was probably the control board or slip rings. Turned out to be the slip rings. $410.00 later it runs like a champ. Good luck. RT" More often than not, trouble code 32 has nothing to do with low voltage, carb, or anything else. It is almost always trouble with either the voltage regulator or the slip rings / brushes. What RT posted is exactly what ours was...292Views0likes0CommentsRe: AC Volt meter install
------------------------ UPDATE ---------------------------------------- The meters I got (like those in the OP) are exactly the same size - the second unit (the DC meter) snapped right into the box just like the first one. Both fit nicely, but I did have to remove the 'bottom' horizontal rail of the box. But they are mounted very close to the floor, so the install works fine even with the bottom rail removed. And now that I've been down there taking this picture, I think we'll spend some time vacuuming today!271Views0likes0Comments
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