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Re: Buying 2007 JAYCO GREYHAWK 33DS anyone out there own one?
foothill999 wrote: We so far so good. I found a shipper who agreed to fly out there to drive it back home for me. He has lots of experience and transports all kinds of RVs. He agreed to inspect it for me. It short he said everything is good. He has been driving all day and has traveled so far 600-800 miles. He said its drives great and no problems as of yet. So far gas mileage is about 6 mpg but he is cruising at 65-70mph. He will arrive in CA this Monday if no problems arise. I has a question related to this model. I have seen some that say full body paint and some that same bottom skirt painted on and some that don't mention either. Are some full paint or are all the decals vinyl ? Sounds OK. But others have said, if you're spending that much $$ why trust so many unknowns. Just know you are a target so be careful632Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class C I am considering for first purchase - advice?
Bumpyroad wrote: tmaxx wrote: I am still looking for my first class c. The one previous I was looking at sold. Tomorrow I am looking at a 2002 Gulfstream Conquest Ultra 30' with two slides and 42k miles. Front tires are from 2005 and rear tires are from 2008. He claims no leaks in the roof.. [COLOR=]its a rubber roof The asking price on Craigslist is $22,400. For this unit, does this seem like a fair starting price or does it seem high? I don't know much about Gulfstream - are they a good manufacturer? a 12 year old rubber roof. price in a replacement. bumpy Bumpy has a thing for rubber roofs. No replacement is likely to be necessary but do inspect the roof. As many will say, inspect the unit carefully, the maintenance is often more important the original manufacturer when buying used.354Views0likes0CommentsRe: A vs. C
My comments are different than what has been provided above. In my experience, a Class C will cost less than a class A. Both have advantages based on requirements. Buy based on: 1) what you need/want 2) what you can afford 3) what provides the best value Look for guidance from the forum but make fact based decisions.525Views0likes0CommentsRe: What's the best way to seal this leak?
dperkinstx wrote: I have 3 spots where the side of the camper is no longer tucked under the trim. It's so short I don't think I can get the trim to cover the siding. What's the best way to seal these areas? I found some Loctite All Purpose 2 in 1 Seal & Bond. Will that stuff work? I agree with previous posts that this type of issue is likely indicating a larger issue inside causing the material to expand and separate. Here is my advice: - Do NOT use DAP anywhere on your RV - its a recipe for disaster - The only thing worse than DAP is silicone - Do find the original leak and fix it (most likely above) as other have posted' - Do dry the interior completely - removing panels if necessary Patch with Proflex or a similar RV exterior caulking. I used Wurth Bond and Seal and it is amazing - hard to get but amazing. As other have said above Eternabond is a great product, in my opinion though it is very unsightly in visible areas like you have here. If the area flexes too much and break the caulking bead you have no choice but to open the area and fix it. BTW: the point above about the whole area blowing away when driving is nonsense (in my opinion anyway)415Views0likes0CommentsRe: Kwikee Steps
chinrv wrote: Why can't you drive with the steps out? They are probably similar to the amount your side mirrors stick out, and you just have to be aware of them. My steps got stuck (one step) in the out position last May and I've left them that way..so far no problems, unless there's something about long term damage to the whole step package of which I'm not aware. They would sometimes not extend and I played around with them to make them work, sometimes they would, sometimes they wouldn't. So, I left them extended, unplugged the connector, wrapped it in tape to keep out any dirt, and it's been that way for many thousands of miles. I wouldn't recommend this. The steps not only stick out further than the mirrors but they are also a few inches off the ground. Steps out while driving = Bad Idea! Please have some consideration for the safety of the people following you!550Views0likes0CommentsRe: What is best way to protect new awning?
mikeleblanc413 wrote: Have just replaced the original awning and roller on my 2000 Minnie Winnie. Do not have a metal protect shield on the top portion that is most exposed to sun. Any ideas on how to best protect it? I was thinking of keeping Protect All heavily applied. Something else? If only I could get 14 years out of the new awning. THANKS!!! If you got 14 years from your last awning just what are you trying to accomplish by protecting your new awning, even you get half the life of the original. With the price of new awning material vs the price of a metal shield or any other solution I say go ahead and replace it when needed.244Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help pricing a used RV?
kcmoedoe wrote: BigCanoe wrote: Hi all, We are looking to buy our first RV (we have been tent/travel trailer campers in the past). Its a 1999 Winnebago Minnie 24W. Its got 60k miles. The dealer is asking $15999 and is holding firm. I think the price is in the ballpark but I am having a hard time paying asking price :) Do you have any advice on pricing one and going in with some evidence to get them to lower their price? With a 16 year old RV, value is all in the condition of the rig. You think the price is fair and they won't come down, so you have a decision point. Discount and asking price means nothing. I mean, would the deal be better if they were asking $18999 and then they gave you a 15% discount ($16149 selling price)? If you feel the value meets or exceeds the final price, buying is a logical decision. I buy stuff for a living so I have some experience that translates to buying vehicles. My advice would be to decide what you want and determine the best way to get it. If all you want is a lower price then you have two ways to get it. 1) issue an ultimatum like many suggest, a take it or leave it price, or 2) negotiate for a better price by learning more about the rig and the market and use it for comparison. Tires are good thing to check, batteries, maintenance, amount of wear of tear, recent RV sales in the area, etc. You have no position to negotiate from without knowledge.183Views0likes0CommentsRe: Manufacturers making defective tires
atreis wrote: The usual questions to ask before blaming the tire: 1. Have you ever run with the tire overloaded at any time? (Keep in mind that tire loading is not simply the total weight divided by 4 - if the trailer loading is unbalanced one side could be heavier than the other, and if the trailer isn't being pulled level the front or rear tires could be taking more weight than the other two.) 2. Have you ever run with the tire underinflated at any time? 3. Have you ever exceeded the maximum speed that the tire is rated for? (For most stock tires, and many replacement tires, this is 65 mph.) If the answer is yes to any of these, then the fault doesn't necessarily lay with the tire or its manufacturer. Also, keep in mind that if you've had a tire fail, the other tire on that side of the trailer also needs to be replaced. It was almost certainly overloaded (possibly severely overloaded) during the time of the failure as it had to take all of the weight for that side of the trailer. Anyone regularly driving the highways today will know that speed is an issue where tires are concerned. I couldn't count the number of trailers I see traveling well beyond the capacity of the tire.515Views0likes0CommentsRe: Rv Manufacurer Customer Service
Mbrown wrote: Because I've had to inquire about my problem with local service and repair shops , and all had the same; we're too busy now to help you now type responses with no attempt to offer a solution or suggestion. And trust me, I work in the service industry and I know poor customer service when I experience it. I would help if I could but there is no answer to your problem. Basic economics would suggest it's a supply and demand issue, not enough supply = long wait times. I get that you're upset having to wait for service but blaming the problem on the industry isn't going to fix it. With your customer service background you will know that good customer service depends heavily on the training of front line staff - your issue with the rude person at Fleetwood doesn't mean the entire company is bad. If you're not getting satisfaction from the people you're talking to then you need to escalate higher until you get to someone with authority who can help.365Views0likes0CommentsRe: Rv Manufacurer Customer Service
Mbrown wrote: I find it very interesting with the RV world coming out of the Recession hit that just took place, that the Manufactures,Dealers, and Service centers Customer service is so dreadful. Just spoke with my local Fleetwood dealer about some work and they said they are 6 to 8 weeks out for ANY service, and they sounded as if I was bugging THEM. Had the same experience with Fleetwood themselves, they were extremely short and rude to a seamingly simple question. Now that the industry is picking up again, you would think they would remember back 5-6 years. They must think we Owe them or something :h OK. so what am I missing, how did your fleetwood problem translate to a problem with entire industry??>365Views0likes0Comments
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