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Re: Best Class C for the money
Tropicaal36 posted "Gee....after all that, I don't understand why a Class C doesn't cost a lot more than a DP/A....lol Hey whatever floats one's boat and why they make one for everyone. I used to have some arguments against a DP, but now that we have one, there's no going back to anything else, for us and not many do." The Original Poster asked a question about a Class C motorhome in a Class C forum. A poster with a Diesel Pusher asked why the OP did not consider a Class A motorhome. And someone then wonders about the responses received?617Views0likes0CommentsRe: Best Class C for the money
There are only four reasons for a diesel pusher. Room, washing machine, and dishwasher. And Prestige. Room is the only one worth considering. A Class C can support a toad. Class C's have Corian surfaces, tile floors, safe, vacuum cleaner, Satellite TV, etc. They are easier to drive, cost less to operate, easier to service. All given up is room and prestige.616Views0likes0CommentsRe: Best Class C for the money
IMHO, our Chinook Glacier is the best built Class C motorhome. I believe that is why 2005 models are listed for sale in the 50,000 dollar range. It is probably not the most reliable due to hydraulic levelers, hydraulic slide with pneumatic seal, satellite TV, GPS navigation, 2000 watt inverter. As far as driving is concerned. We have owned a 27 foot Class A motorhome, a 36 foot diesel pusher, and our 25 foot Class C. IMHO, the Class C is by far the easiest to drive. No comparison.616Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
pianotuna wrote: Log, Why do you think I'm attempting to teach you anything? I don't see your name in any of my recent posts on the thread. Maybe you need to go back and read your posts about "hydrometers" and "dancing on the head of needles", and how I determine fully charged.854Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
Pianotuna, When I purchased our Foretravel diesel pusher in 2013. It had the identical 12 volt system as our boat. Even the isolators were from the same company. The only difference was that it had a lot less batteries and one alternator.852Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
Pianatuna. Before RVing, I had a boat. From 2002 until 2013 I spent months and months anchored in the Bahamas and Exumas. The boat had a single 6 cylinder inline diesel engine. It had two alternators (one 70 amp and one 120 amp), two smart battery chargers (one 40 amp and one 60 amp). The 60 amp was fully field repairable. It had a 2500 watt inverter and a 8 kilowatt diesel generator. It had ten group 31 Lifeline AGM batteries. Five banks, three banks with one battery, one bank with three batteries, and one bank with four batteries. Are you reading? In 2002 it had ten Lifeline AGM batteries. Do you really believe there is something you can teach me about 12 volt batteries and charging systems? Really?852Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
pianotuna wrote: Log, Your needs are met by your system. Mine are different, so of course, my recommendation to others is different than yours. My intent was not to upset you. I'm sorry if our verbal exchange did so. I am not upset. But I do question if you are intellectually dishonest. You recommend a DC to DC battery charger. But you do not use one. You question how I can determine battery state of charge without a hydrometer. But your system cannot be tested with one. ETc, Etc, Etc. You give your motorhome as an example of a system that does not fully charge the house bank. But you do not use a DC to Dc charger. Go figure?319Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
wolfe10 wrote: OK, how about a TIME OUT. If you want/think you need smart charging from your alternator, you will need an alternator with external regulator. Then buy a smart regulator-- we have had one to control the sailboat's 120 amp alternator for a decade. NEXT. Thank you. Now please address the need for a DC to Dc battery charger in a Class C Motorhome. The reason for this discussion. A response from a recognized expert is more than welcomed. This is my last post in this thread.249Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Charging Problem ***UPDATE***
pianotuna wrote: LOG wrote: You have really gone beyond the need for a DC to DC battery charger. Log, Most of the charging is done via solar. When I am on shore power, I use a Magnum inverter charger with temperature compensation. The remote for the Magnum allows me to adjust charging voltages to meet my needs. Any charging I get while traveling is incidental. It would not be adequate to my needs. If I intended to fully charge while driving, I would get a dc to DC device. They are far cheaper than an isolation device. Then I could easily meet Trojan's suggestion of 14.8 volts to fully charge one of their lead acid jars. Somehow I get the impression that your Magnum charger and your system is OK and you have fully charged batteries, but my charger and my way of determining full charge is inadequate or wrong. Why is that?249Views0likes0Comments
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