OVERWATCH_09
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Re: Landing Gear Reducing Gearbox Issues
donn0128 wrote: If all else fails, support the nose of your fiver, retract the landing gear by hand if you have to, take the two 7/16 inch nuts off that clamp the leg in place and tilt the leg over until you can remove the gear box. Takes no time at all to do that. Just the kind of info i was looking for, thank you.350Views0likes0CommentsRe: Landing Gear Reducing Gearbox Issues
donn0128 wrote: They are all like that. Two screws to take the motor off. Then one phillips screw and the plastic stop. Gear box slides right off the shaft. About 15 minutes. New gear box can be ordered direct from Venture mfg for about 50 dollars as I remember no, thats the issue. perhaps i didnt explain thoroughly enough. Situated between two pieces of steel, no room to slide anywhere.350Views0likes0CommentsRe: Landing Gear Reducing Gearbox Issues
Old-Biscuit wrote: Your pictures are TOO LARGE to be of any use.......resize as per forum instructions. The cross drive bar is typically just bolted to the drive gear output shaft and then bolted to the slave drive. OR it could be pinned on both ends. Apparently this is the only forum on the planet that doesnt resize automatically.350Views0likes0CommentsLanding Gear Reducing Gearbox Issues
I've got a little bit of a unique situation. I've searched a lot today and haven't seen anything that remotely answers my questions, so hopefully this isn't revisiting a commonly discussed topic. Somehow, the reducing gearbox in my 5er (08 Cedar Creek) is sandwiched between 2 pieces of steel (1 being the landing gear leg, the other the frame of the trailer). It is not physically possible to simply slide the gearbox on or off, and it looks like I have to actually remove the rotating piece of metal that connects the gearbox to both legs. I can't, however, figure out how to remove that piece, can anyone help? On the second picture, the piece on the right is the one I am asking about.1.4KViews0likes8CommentsRe: 2nd A/C install issues, breaker box wiring confusion
Thanks for the replies. I guess I didn't even think to make sure the labeling was correct, you know what they say about assumptions though..... I was very surprised to find the breaker panel in such a mess as it was. Also, when I start messing around with breakers, I should be good as long as the battery disconnect is tripped and I'm unplugged from the pedestal, right?179Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bedroom a/c dead
pigdoc wrote: the controls on this unit are hard to read and do not work. The circuit breaker for the 2nd a/c is not tripped, and it did run during our PDI, but nothing now. Is there another fuse that might be tripped? What do you mean the controls are hard to read? Like the outside of the unit, the actual knob is hard to read? No 2nd fuse to my knowledge. pigdoc wrote: Our dealer (4 hour drive away) has been real good to work with, but for some reason can't even give us the serial number on the unit so I can register the warranty. They installed the unit and did not record the number, and say the s/n is not on the invoice when they purchased it. Any ideas would be appreciated. This does not sound like a good dealer at all, very shoddy work to not keep customer information like that. If you are handy enough, you can take the control unit off of the ceiling and the model/serial number should be on a sticker up in the air return. If you look up in there and see that there used to be stickers, but no more, you need to let whoever installed the unit know that this is unacceptable.243Views0likes0Comments2nd A/C install issues, breaker box wiring confusion
I own a 2008 Cedar Creek 36CDTS with a pre-installed 2nd A/C wire in the front. I removed the fan that was installed from the factory and set the new A/C in last night. After wiring, I flipped the 2nd A/C breaker to the on position and turned the new unit on........ nothing happened. I immediately realized my mistake was not plugging the A/C controller into the top unit (duh, what an idiot). Well after doing that, still no dice. I popped open the breaker box hoping that the breaker just plain wasn't wired, but it was. The only thing that is throwing me for a loop is that the 2nd black wire is connected via wire nut to a separate group of wires that go to the "Converter" breaker. Is this the possible culprit? Do I need to take the 2nd A/C black wire and place it elsewhere inside the breaker panel? I'm not new to wiring in general, but I have never messed around with RV breaker systems (only residential). I also don't have a live line tester at my disposal, will be purchasing one today just to make sure there isn't something screwy with the 3-wire itself.1.2KViews0likes5Comments
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