Heybro
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Re: Question about tires
Old-Biscuit wrote: Heybro wrote: Old-Biscuit wrote: "My GAWR on my truck with those tires is 4000 lbs on the front, and 4150 lbs on the rear." That will not change regadless of tires you put on vehicle. Those ARE your Axle Weight Ratings....which you need to stay AT or UNDER Your tires are rated at MAX Load/MAX PSI of 2535# EACH------ 5070# Total per axle....MORE then the Axle This is what I meant to ask about. How is it that the back axles can handle up to 4150 lbs, but the payload capacity of my truck is 1500 lbs? 'Payload' is the truck mfgs number derived by subtracting trucks Base Weight from GVWR Course Base Weight does NOT include options/accessories added to truck so Payload will be LOWER Axle ratings are the tires/rims/suspension/axle components as a whole I am one that goes by AXLE Ratings/Tire MAX Load Ratings vs Truck Mfgs GVWR/Payload numbers cause those are set by MFG for numberous reasons IE: Class Distinction, Warranty & Registration numbers Stay at/under Axle Ratings and you will NOT be overloaded......yes you may exceed the MFGs GVWR/Payload Numbers but they are NOT 'legal' numbers You still have not posted ACTUAL Axle Weights vs Axle Weight Ratings???? So you are saying that GVWR and payload on the sticker by the mfg is only for legal purposes and that my truck can handle far above those weights? Going by axle ratings and tire ratings sounds good to me. But how do i get my ACTUAL axle weights? Should I measure them before I hook up my trailer or after?477Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question about tires
Old-Biscuit wrote: "My GAWR on my truck with those tires is 4000 lbs on the front, and 4150 lbs on the rear." That will not change regadless of tires you put on vehicle. Those ARE your Axle Weight Ratings....which you need to stay AT or UNDER Your tires are rated at MAX Load/MAX PSI of 2535# EACH------ 5070# Total per axle....MORE then the Axle This is what I meant to ask about. How is it that the back axles can handle up to 4150 lbs, but the payload capacity of my truck is 1500 lbs?477Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question about tires
MFL wrote: The door sticker is for best ride, but for towing heavy, you need to air up to get full use of tire load capability. Like mentioned full pressure in rear, and try about 42 in the front. A bit of trial, to know what handles best, after all hooked up and towing. Jerry Thank you for the explanation.478Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question about tires
MFL wrote: The tires will work, air the rear to max, no problem there, but you will need to stay under the truck RAWR 4150. If you add the loaded hitch wt to the R/A curb wt. and all other wt added to truck, in cab, in bed, WDH, etc, you still need to stay within rear axle rating. I think it will work, if you don't load the truck bed with heavy stuff. Jerry Okay, so on the sticker in my door it says that the cold tire pressure should be 30 psi on front, and 33 psi in back. I guess I'm confused on why it says on the actual tire that the max is 51 psi. Should I have them all at 51 psi at all times?477Views0likes0CommentsQuestion about tires
I have been learning a lot about tongue weight and payload capacity lately, but I have not even looked into tire capacity and weight rating at all. I am going to need some help with this. So my truck has Goodyear 275/55R20 113T tires. It says the treadwear is 500, Traction B, Temperature B. It also says the max load is 2535 lbs, and max psi is 51. My GAWR on my truck with those tires is 4000 lbs on the front, and 4150 lbs on the rear. Ok, with that information, how do I figure out if I am good to tow a 7,000 lbs GVWR trailer, with 680 lbs of dry tongue weight without having a tire blowout? I heard something that you need D or E rated tires if you are going to tow. But it looks like my tires can handle 2535 lbs each, so shouldnt i be fine?14KViews0likes58CommentsRe: Understanding GVWR
CharlesinGA wrote: Your hitch weight is unrealistic. Optimum is 13% of the trailer weight. So if you take the dry weight (which you will never see) and multiply by .13 you get 783 lbs. If you use the max gross weight, its 1196 lbs. Figure about 110 lbs for propane, take the water capacity and multiply by 8 lbs per gallon, then take all the cookware, grill, dump hose, potable water hose, power cord, etc and clothes and personal stuff, extra shoes, etc, it adds up fast. A realistic tongue weight is more like 950 to 1000 lbs for your situataion. Simply put, your truck is no where close to being capable of doing this. You need to gas up the truck and go to a scale and spend the $12 or so and weigh it, then you can have some real numbers to work with. Towing capacity is calculated by the manufacturers using a flat bed trailer loaded with (take your pick) bricks/railroad iron/lead/etc and is not representative of towing a big box down the road that reacts to wind and buffeting of trucks. Its simply what the engine, transmission, and rear axle are capable of pulling, and the brakes are capable of stopping, without breaking the first time you tow. Charles Charles Well the 595 lbs dry hitch weight is what is listed on the spec sheet of that trailer. That would put it at around 9.8% of the total dry weight of the trailer. Do you think the manufacturer has it labeled incorrectly? I dont really see how you figure that my tongue weight will be over 900 lbs. That doesn't make much sense to me. Also wouldnt a weight distribution hitch help?192Views0likes0CommentsRe: Understanding GVWR
CharlesinGA wrote: Your hitch weight is unrealistic. Optimum is 13% of the trailer weight. So if you take the dry weight (which you will never see) and multiply by .13 you get 783 lbs. If you use the max gross weight, its 1196 lbs. Figure about 110 lbs for propane, take the water capacity and multiply by 8 lbs per gallon, then take all the cookware, grill, dump hose, potable water hose, power cord, etc and clothes and personal stuff, extra shoes, etc, it adds up fast. A realistic tongue weight is more like 950 to 1000 lbs for your situataion. Simply put, your truck is no where close to being capable of doing this. You need to gas up the truck and go to a scale and spend the $12 or so and weigh it, then you can have some real numbers to work with. Towing capacity is calculated by the manufacturers using a flat bed trailer loaded with (take your pick) bricks/railroad iron/lead/etc and is not representative of towing a big box down the road that reacts to wind and buffeting of trucks. Its simply what the engine, transmission, and rear axle are capable of pulling, and the brakes are capable of stopping, without breaking the first time you tow. Charles Charles Well the 595 lb dry hitch weight is what it says on the manufacturer website which would put the tongue weight around 9.8% of the dry trailer weight. Are you suggesting that they have incorrect numbers posted? Also, I dont see how you came up with the tongue weight at 900 to 1000 lbs for my situation. How do you figure that? It realistically seems like It would be around 750-800 lbs for my loaded tongue weight.194Views0likes0CommentsUnderstanding GVWR
I'm thinking of getting the Nash 24M, which has a Dry weight of 6023 lbs, and a GVWR of 9200 lbs. Hitch weight of 595lbs. So 3177 lbs of payload is a lot. If i loaded it up to reach close to that GVWR then I couldn't safely tow it, but I dont feel as if I can ever realistically load over 3000 lbs into my trailer. It's only going to be me living in it and I don't have that many things. Is it still safe to tow? My vehicle has a towing capacity of 9200 lbs and my payload on my truck is 1270lbs. So 200(my weight) + 595(tongue weight) + 100(wdm hitch) = 895. 1270-895 = 375 lbs of available cargo. Did I do that right? And is 375 lbs enough for cargo? I don't plan on driving it a lot. Mostly going to be at an RV park living there. Also, that cargo will only be a concern when towing. I can manage only having 375 lbs of cargo when towing. Please educate me if it doesn't seem safe for my truck.5.6KViews0likes22CommentsRe: Best quality 4 season trailer
lhenry8113 wrote: Arctic Fox or Nash both made by Northwood Mfg in La Grande, Or. They make their own trailer as well as the R.V. They are a little pricier but they are well made-and are made and designed as a 4 seasons R.V. https://northwoodmfg.com/ I am actually very impressed with these. I like this more than the Rockwood so far.394Views0likes0Comments
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