Kach
Explorer
Joined 12 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Furnace Help
The furnace is a DMFD35121 Dometic. Thermostat is Airxcel 9430A3382 or very similar - controls AC, fan high and low as well as furnace. I’m thinking it’s calling for heat appropriately since when the burner turns off, the fan seems to continue running for longer than the 30 seconds or so at the normal end of cycle. the furnace is mounted horizontally below fridge and has no access hatch to the outside - everything I try involves me disconnecting the gas and pulling the whole unit!151Views0likes0CommentsFurnace Help
Our 5’er has a Dometic furnace with Airexcell thermostat. It has been short-cycling recently. The problem is worse when it is cold (first turned on) and seems to improve when it runs for a while. When first turned on, it will only fire for a couple seconds at a time. As it warms up, it will improve to 4-5 minutes before cutting the gas and then re-fires 30 seconds or so later. I’ve replaced the sail switch and control board (Dinosaur) with no change. Is there an easy way to isolate the furnace from the thermostat? I know I need to look into the high limit switch and propane pressure next, but trying to be smart before I keep throwing parts/money at it. I’d expect the high limit switch to not be the problem since it’s worse starting from cold then gets better, but who knows?236Views0likes4CommentsTiny slide roof repair
I noticed the other day that my slide roof has a tiny nick in the membrane right on the edge/crease. It’s only about 1/4-1/2” or so and otherwise intact. I did an inspection and can’t see anything sharp that might have caused it. Might be self-inflicted from me clearing leaves or might have just always been like that and I never noticed. Any ideas to patch it up? Considering some eternabond or a spot of decor. Not sure what would hold up best with the slide movement. Ultimately we’ll be upgrading to a slide topper anyways, but want to keep it water tight!712Views0likes1CommentRe: New trailer, new challenges
Hello all, OP here again! Long story short, we had an unexpected opportunity to upgrade our truck and trailer to get a new-to-us 5th wheel. It’s a perfect rig for us (never again with the no-slide trailer). So after this whole process with the last trailer, I opened the fuse panel on the new one and found the WFCO setup once again. This time with a separate deck mounted 55a converter. Converter doesn’t seem to pretend that it will charge at higher than 13.6v (no boost mode claimed anywhere). It seemed easy enough, so I plopped in the Go Power 35a converter that has been working well with the last trailer. Took about 20 minutes total and was charging right off the bat at 14.3v. Using 2 - 6v golf cart batteries, now a 2000 watt generator (wish I had done that upgrade first and got a higher amp converter). Question: Is the Go Power charging faster with 35a and 14.3+v, or would the WFCO be better on account of 55a despite the 13.6v charging? I already had the Go Power so I just put it in before I got to wondering this.544Views0likes0CommentsRe: Adding a circuit to distribution panel
I’ll probably use #12 or 14 (or better depending on what I have on hand). I’m assuming I shouldn’t need an inline fuse if I’m wiring back to a fused circuit. I’m talking about just 12v system here - I want to be able to use the outlets for dry camping when we don’t have hookups.343Views0likes0CommentsAdding a circuit to distribution panel
Well shortly after getting this all sorted in our last travel trailer, we just upgraded to a new to us Keystone Sprinter Campfire 5th wheel. While it’s pretty close to perfect for our needs, it unfortunately did not come with a single 12v or USB outlet! There is a nice shelf under the TV which happens to be right above the fuse box with pretty easy routing through the cabinet. My plan is to make this shelf a “charging center” for topping up our devices while camping. Correct me if I’m wrong but it looks fairly simple - hot goes to the empty space on the fuse panel and ground to the ground block. I’m planning on 2-3 USB outlets (3a) with one of which also having the built in voltmeter since I don’t have one on this rig. Would a 15a fuse be sufficient? Any other considerations or ideas while I’m in there?1.7KViews0likes6CommentsHelp with hitch rails - 2004 Sierra
I just bought a 2004 Sierra Duramax for our new to us 5er coming next week hopefully. I’ve pulled out my hair trying to figure out the best kit etc. for mounting the rails. Looks a bit more complicated than our previous ram’s kit although I didn’t install or use that setup (came on the truck). I have the Reese universal rail install kit and also just ordered the #50064 brackets but they’re a ways out from getting here. Should I proceed with the universal kit or wait for the custom? To make matters more complicated, this truck previously had a 5th wheel hitch installed but none of the custom or universal brackets I’ve seen match the angled shape of the front bracket. I don’t want too many holes in the frame - how many is too many?1.3KViews0likes4CommentsRe: USB Outlet problems
I’m was able to get the first outlet/voltmeter combo wired in and installed last night. Seems to work well but the voltage reading does drop when an accessory is also plugged into the outlet. I’m not sure if this corresponds to the voltage fluctuation at the battery (like when the fridge or furnace is running), but seems like just my phone plugged in wouldn’t be that dramatic so it’s probably just the load on that dead-end line. The new outlet was deeper than the wall depth so I made a backing plate from a piece of 1/2” trim and painted it black to match the other outlets. Looks good, but aim hoping to not have to do that 4 more times. I used the command strips to mount the baseplate again and it feels solid! Does anyone have a source for shallower-bodied USB 3.0 outlets? Preferably with the square/rectangle mounting plate as the holes by the manufacturer are pretty sloppy.899Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12 volt Refrigerators
Our new trailer came with a Norcold 12v 8 cu ft fridge. Seems pretty nice for an entry-level trailer like ours. I’m running 2- 6v interstates with about 100 and change usable aH. It is definitely a big draw on the system. I find we’re bumping on the lower end of power in the morning, but I usually can’t shut everything down to get an accurate reading. We made it in the mountains for 3 nights with the fridge and furnace going. The fridge has a night mode that makes a big difference (I forget to switch it on about 1/3 of the time). We definitely need to run the generator daily to make it winter camping. If I had room I’d add another pair of batteries. I’ll be getting some solar this summer, bu here in the PNW we can sometimes be in the trees so we need a backup plan. When we ski there is only a few hours of direct sun (on sunny days) but it would still probably help. Also skiing, we tend to run the generator a lot anyways watching movies etc.511Views0likes0CommentsRe: USB Outlet problems
Good info! I wouldn’t have known to look for the better charging rate. Hopefully some better quality units will fix the problem. I’d like one with the built in voltmeter as well - I had thought about sacrificing a usb outlet to install one, so the combo is great. I always used a 12v lighter outlet voltmeter in our last trailer, but this one doesn’t have one.896Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 29, 202519,006 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 20, 202544,030 Posts
