Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Joined Jun 20, 2009
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Re: Fridge not cooling
2004 vintage......... Is it LEVEL? Does it cool on AC? Have they gone thru and fully cleaned the burner assembly,,,,,orifice, burner etc Service Manual Pg 8 Operation Pg 11....burner cleaning There is NO 'pilot' ....the Flame that lights IS the main flame921Views0likes0CommentsRe: Water Pump Keeps Running
mtofell1 wrote: Figured it out and feel pretty dumb. I relocated the city water connection to the back of the RV for ease of connecting and when I first changed the pump it was hooked up (but house hose off). Today I had unhooked the hose and it was spraying water back out my new hookup. I'm now assuming there must be an anti-backflow valve at the stock city water connection. The odd thing is the old pump was doing the same thing long before I moved my city water hookup (this is why I swapped the pump). Anyway, all is well.... for now. Thanks for the replies everyone. One of the items in my post City Water inlet has a check valve to prevent back flow from RV into City Water System when using the pump Pump has an internal check valve to prevent back flow thru pump when using city water708Views0likes0CommentsRe: Does closing most A/C vents create back-pressure?
They do make adjustable roof ceiling vents..... 13.5K btu A/C Unit is standard size 15K is the large size Close off the vent you want.... Unlike furnace---less duct/vents will not cause A/C harm **Might cause Evap Coil to Ice up which is easy to correct685Views0likes0CommentsRe: Water Pump Keeps Running
Pump running continuously: *How do you fill your fresh water tank----FILL valve or Gravity Port Fill Valve---leaking thru so pump round-robins and can't build pressure *LEAK...wrap TP around fittings then check in an hour. Wet TP---LEAK *Pump Check Valve leaking by....new pump should have cured that issue *Bad Pump Pressure switch----New pump should have cured that issue (switch is on head of pump...give it a whack with handle of screw driver) *City Water Inlet Check Valve leaking...check for drippings from connection *Water heater T&P Weeping702Views0likes0CommentsRe: replacing pigtails on propane tanks
StirCrazy wrote: rvshrinker wrote: thank you that is so helpful! This article suggests yellow tape is the preferred sealing method and adequate: https://www.oasisngv.com/vdb/document/1179 actualy it doesnt, it says it is more conventiant for the worker to use as it is easier to carry , doesnt have a shelf life, and has no cure time. if you dont wrap it properly it can be the worst one you'll use. I used to work for a gas company when I was a young lad and we would have been fired for using tape instead of liquid sealers. if you notice when the rv's come from the factory they use a liquid sealant also. the choice of liquid sealants is just as important though, you want to get a non hardining one, so it sets up but doesnt harden like a rock. Steve Liquid sealers are fast/easy ....just a quick wipe around the threads with the brush----Done Yellow Gas Tape is just as effective and less messy.....just a couple of wraps in the RIGHT direction...done Direction is important where as with liquid sealant---just swipe it on Commercial/Production----time is money....liquid sealant is the choice Yellow tape is good also.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Tire engineering question.
One tire blow out on a Dual means the other tire was instantly overloaded......damage is done and increases with drive time No place to safely pull off....then you drive on it until you can safely pull over EVEN if it blows and your on the rim. Gonna need 2 new tires regardless.298Views0likes0Comments
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