All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Compressor Refrigerator opt 12v?Count me as another happy NovaKool 12V compressor refridgerator user. I replaced a poorly-functioning (and old) 4CF Dometic with a 5.8CF NovaKool in the spring of 2013. I have had zero issues with it since. I bought the 12V only model as I already have a 12V to 120V converter in the camper. The NovaKool was a little shorter so I had to add a filler board above it, while being 1.8CF bigger on the inside. It was also much lighter. I didn't weigh either one, but lifting them the weight difference was very noticable. I have 400W of solar and 320AH of battery to run the fridge, an Engel 12V compressor cooler, this computer, and everything else in the camper. The batteries can go up to 3 days with little to no sunlight, but I get unhappy after 2 days.Re: Help with Lance 820 solar set upI also moved my batteries from the "high and to the rear" battery box. I only had one of each wire though. I removed the positive wire and tied the negative wire up and out of the way. It is still electrically connected to the new batteries. I would tie all the negative wires together in the old battery box and leave them. No harm if they touch anything. The positive wire will have to be insulated or removed. It doesn't matter what the white wires go to, if they are electrically tied to the new battery negative, everybody will be happy.Re: Solar panels/controller advice Fishbreath wrote: Since you have a fiberglass roof, I would recommend using 3M VHB tape to secure panels to your roof. No Holes. This stuff is amazing. I have had the panels on my Class A roof for two years and no problems. Once you put them down, they are staying put. Yea, it is scary using the tape. You just can't imagine that the tape will hold, but it does. If you PM me, I will send you a little that I have left over from my last install. Try it, you'll like it. If people tell you that it won't work, or they don't trust it, ask them if they have ever used it! Solar is the way to go! Good luck Bill My sister and I put a 400W kit from AMSolar on her converted van a couple years ago. We used 3M VHB tape to mount the panels and they are holding on just fine. That tape is used to bond the skin onto busses and high-end horse trailers. Seriously good stuff. I have experience with that tape at work. We used it to bond small solar panels to stainless steel boxes for a product. Over 1200 in the field with no failures for the tape. The AMSolar kit was not cheap but it was very complete and very good quality.Re: Tie down alternatives...Phoenix Campers uses straps for their campers, although mounted inside the bad where the sun can't get to them. I think the biggest drawback would be that they will be weakened by the sun and need to be replaced periodically. How often that is I don't know. Maybe look it up on trucker's forums.Re: what is the dumbest thing about your camper?Not just on mine, I have seen this on many campers: The fill port for the fresh water tank is right there for anyone to put whatever they like into it, and the vent is open to the wind. That probably lets lots of dust into the tank. I added a locking door over it all.Re: Escape hatch coverI had to replace that cover on my 1998 Lance 845 a couple years ago. The correct size is 17 by 24 inches, Elixir part# 90088-1. This is for the cover only, not the complete vent. I got it from Lazydays in Tucson.Re: Repairing sidingYup, working on dry rot in a camper in the snow (or heat) definately qualifies as a double negative. Triple negative if you run out of beer.Re: Just ShoppingThere should be a data sticker (probably on the driver's door jam) that shows GVWR and axle weight ratings (FAWR and RAWR). The RAWR is usually the sum of the rear tires weight ratings, 6390 in your case. There should also be a sticker in the glove box showing a max weight for a camper. My 2005 GMC 2500 shows 2700 lbs camper weight IIRC. Bear in mind that 3200 "dry weight" is a marketing number, not a real number. It doesn't include any options, water, propane, or batteries. It may not even be the weight of the basic camper with no options. Apparently the gravity at camper manufacturing plants is less than anywhere else. My Lance 845 has a claimed dry weight of about 1800 lbs but puts me at 9550 lbs on the scale. My GVWR is 9200 lbs so I am overweight by 350 lbs but just under the axle rating. So that "1800 lbs dry weight" camper weighs around 3000 lbs ready to camp. I agree with cewillis, that camper is too heavy for your truck.Re: Electrical help please. Lance harness to Ford truck Tamnative wrote: The reason for the Lance 6 pin plug is that the pos. and neg. wires are heavier than a standard 7 pin plug. If you are not going to use the same gauge wire that is on the camper you would be better off replacing the plug on the camper and leaving the truck plug alone. That is how I did mine. The 12V function on the fridge didn't work well anyway, so why fuss with it? I added 6AWG wires on a separate connector (an Anderson plug) for battery charging for those cloudy days when the solar falls short (twice in 3 years). I have an isolator in that charge line on the truck.Re: Truck Camper Entry Door Width Thread ...22" on my Lance 845. The fridge is 24" but JUST fit after removing the door frame.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts