CharlesinGA
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Re: Can anybody tell me
Other than people not wanting to sleep in half a tent, and half a trailer, it could be the BEAR issue. Many campgrounds no longer allow tents or hybrids due to bears. The bear population has grown immensely in the past few years, and its becoming a real problem. Did you see the pic of a metal sided trailer that a bear ripped the lower sheet metal off of one side? It was in the Gorges SP in NC. They closed the park for a while in hopes the bear(s) would move on to other places. Charles533Views0likes0CommentsRe: Re-coating Wheels
In the Atlanta area, Alloy Wheel Repair gets $125 to strip, straighten and refinish alloy wheels. Last time I had my cars wheels done it was $100 each, but recently checked and its up to $125 now. That includes dismounting tires and remounting and balancing. When I had them done, I was getting new tires and had the tire shop dismount and discard the tires and then mount new ones when the wheels were returned. In 2020 I considered having the trailer wheels refinished as they turned milky but I paid only a little more and got brand new, better looking, Sendel wheels. As with everything, the price has gone up considerably since then. Old wheels were the 20 hole "modular" wheel. I paid $120 for the Sendel wheels so they were a bargain, those are about $160 now, but still not bad compared to $125 or more for a refinish. Charles944Views0likes0CommentsRe: A.R.E. Camper Shells
A little bit of bending, filing, or adjusting should free up the latch on the back glass (I take it is has one handle to latch both sides). There is probably some way to pin the latches with small hitch pins on lanyards to secure the latches from the inside. I have a Leer 8ft topper/cap/whatever you call it, and have never opened the windows. Truck is used to pull a travel trailer and back is loaded with griddle, patio mats, directors chairs, and a cheap 10x10 pop up gazebo. They have not been called "camper shells" since the '70's that I know of but that used to be a cheap way of camping, but usually cold and damp. Charles1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Custom plastic ice box for Dometic freezer
Find a used appliance store. They have non-repairables out back to take to scrap. You can probably look thru them and find one with an ice bin in it that will work. Might cost you a buck or two if not free. I saved the ice bin from my old shop fridge and it fits nicely in the freezer of my 6 cu/ft Dometic. I hardly ever use ice but it helps keep the freezer cold, and its there if I need it. Charles1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Awning arm does not release.
When you pull the awning out, pull it all the way, and the roller will be so low you have to do the Jamaican Limbo to get under it. Then raise the rafters all the way up to the top until they latch in place, then pull hard on the arm up near the roller to tighten the fabric, and while holding it, tighten the screw knob in the middle of the rafter. After doing both of them, lastly extend the arms out as high as you want it, making them a bit uneven to drain dew or rainwater. Charles2.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Awning arm does not release.
Z-Peller wrote: Start by opening clips on arms, then loosening knobs on arms, then release the roller with your rod, then pull lanyard out a few inches so roller unwinds slightly which will release tension, then give a good yank up on the lever on the bottom of each arm and the arm will come out of the designed notch at the top, and awning is now ready to pull rest of the way out……when putting awning away, let the last few inches go, so the arms slam hard and drop into the notch at the top, then you know the arms are locked in place. Many awnings come open on the road because people don’t know those arms have a locking notch at the top and think it is just the roller tension holding it from deploying….Once you get your routine you will find it quite simple to do. I was reading this and thinking, hey, thats exactly how I have to do the A&E 8500 on my 2008 Bigfoot 21RB" and then I looked and sure enough you have a Bigfoot also. Not All A&E8500's lock at the top like mine and yours, I had a Thor with a straight armed A&E8500 and it didn't do that. Even with the notch mine locks into on top, I installed a RVAwning lock, which took fabrication of a couple of special pieces. I guess I am kinda a belt and suspenders guy. My mods are all posted on the BOCI site. Charles2.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Rewiring water heater
The OP clearly has a Suburban water heater (as Atwood has never used a outside switch). Cheaper RV's do not install an inside switch, more expensive ones install a regular household type "snap switch" to control the 120v AC to the water heater, other mfgs buy the Suburban models that have the 12v DC controlled relay installed in them and operate both gas and elect off the dual switch control panel inside using 12v to control the WH (which is the way Atwood has done this for YEARS) So yes, the easiest mod is to install a household type snap switch (pilot lighted is a good idea) in a electrical box and wall plate, and run the WH romex to it and from the switch to the WH. It will work fine that way. If you think you want to install a new water heater in the future buy the Suburban model SW6DEL, the D means direct spark ignition of the gas, the E means it has an electric element, and (most important of all) the L means it has a built in relay so it can be controlled from a 12v dual switch panel inside with 16 gauge 12v wires and the romex that is run directly to the water heater. 6DEL and 10DEL switch panel, Suburban 233111 (and in white 232882 White, DEL On/Off Switch) DO NOT use this panel with 120v AC power!!! Charles1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Stuck in yard, ruts. Install driveway? Ideas please.
Crush and run is the worst possible choice. It is a bunch of fine stuff mixed with some 3-4 railroad rock. The Crush will disappear into the ground and do nothing and the large rock will be annoying and not enough. If it is real soft ground, get a load of rail road rock, 3-4 stone, dumped and have someone with a steer/skid spread it and work it into the ground as a base. Then have a load of 5-7 stone delivered and spread that on top, and it will stay there and not disappear. An alternative to that is to find some Marston matting, aka PSP or Perforated Steel Planking, and make a pad from that. Each strip is 13 inches wide by 10 ft long and weighs 66 lbs. Charles1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Propane hose pigtail replacement
Marshall Excelsior is made in the US. Everything. Here is their camp and RV catalog. https://www.marshallexcelsior.com/sites/default/files/2021%20MEC%20RV%20Catalog.pdf Very useful catalog with lots of information. For pigtails, you need to decide how long, braided metal jacket or not, and 1/4 pipe thread or 1/4 reverse flare. Get the part numbers and go searching on Amazon or elsewhere and see what you find. Charles969Views0likes0CommentsRe: Road Armor vs CRE3000
JBarca wrote: Not sure what size your camper is, but these pics are from a camper I restored last year. This camper is set up on tandem 3,500# axles. This 2004 camper has a 5,500# GTVWR. The wheel-to-wheel spacing is less than the standard 33" spacing; this one is at 32" nominal. The camper originally had underslung axles making it a low rider. I gained more ride height and fender well clearance by doing an over/under axle tube conversion (AKA axle flip). It also allowed me to use the Road Armor............................ That is nice work! My Bigfoot has 3500 lb straight axles that are quite close together also. I would like it raised somewhat, but not a crazy amount. I have wondered about using the drop axles under the springs vs my straight axles over the springs. From your pics, it looks like I might gain an inch or so. Glad to see your pics to see how the Road Armor fits. Charles1.3KViews0likes0Comments
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