csamayfield55x
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Re: CHUCK no more...
WTP-GC wrote: The set screws bear a portion of the pin weight, but when the vehicle is in motion, physics demands that the pin itself also bears some weight. I totally agree that the Andersen adapter resulted in damage to SearchingUT's pin box, but it was never determined if his pinbox was structurally correct in the first place. If I recall that thread correctly, there was a lot of back and forth about how the internal part of the pinbox is constructed, and how his perhaps might have had a deficiency. He said Andersen blamed it on a bad pinbox, which could very well have been the case. I know there's a lot of people using the Andersen with a standard 1621 pinbox without issue, and I would expect that if this were a legitimate problem, we'd be hearing more about it. If I remember, that was NOT a Mor ride either it was a factory lippert pin box. I still say the weight is carried by the 2 large bolts going to both sides of the pin. All the set screws do is hold the adapter plate straight and keep it from moving. Chris529Views0likes0CommentsRe: CHUCK no more...
Searching_Ut wrote: I've been checking the pin boxes of rigs I see with the andersen ultimate after the 1621HD on my rig was damaged by the hitch adapter. I have seen seen damaged MR pin boxes. All the pin weight is carried on just the two pins between the ball and the pin teeter totter fashion which the pin boxes weren't designed for. I would recommend going with the heavy duty plate or getting a shim from Andersen to distribute the weight better. What are you talking about?? The weight is carried in the same place as normal, right at the pin! The set bolt holds the adapter in the pin groove with the large bolts. The 4 set screws keep it from spinning and moving. There just doesn't seem to be any merit to your post Chris529Views0likes0CommentsRe: Keurig coffee makers for the RV
JimK-NY wrote: There we go...heat the water on the stove and pour it through a filter or even a substitute K cup system. I will never understand why so many people insist on living in an RV exactly the same way they live in a house. A few minor changes can make a huge difference. I feel so happy I have a wife that agrees. We don't need hookups. We don't need 6 batteries, an inverter and a massive solar system. We don't need to fire up a generator for every meal. We don't even need a massive big rig. Spend a little time and thought about what you need and make some minor compromises and you can get by with much less. That is a good way to live in an RV and also at home. Why should I??? If I like my coffee from a Keurig, and I like to watch movies when camping, and I like to have air conditioning, why should I?? OP asked a question. Some people answered and others decided they needed interject how there style of camping is so much better!! This forum never gets old Chris508Views0likes0CommentsRe: CHUCK no more...
IBcarguy wrote: Not sure what you mean...I ordered the pinbox that they recommended as the replacement for my original pinbox. They provide a identification guide to determine the right pinbox. Mine happened to be RPB72-1621/HD. I didn't see any reference to a HD skid plate. With the Andersen hitch adapter, the skid plate doesn't come into play anyway. That plate is not necessary at all! It is for mounting the long tube goose adapters. The plate on the standard plate is crazy thick compared to the cheap lippert pin box most 5ers come with. of course they are going to say you need it, they get more money from you. My FIL has put 10's of thousands of miles on his combo and it has never flinched, flexed of loosened Chris463Views0likes0CommentsRe: Keurig coffee makers for the RV
WE have a K250 for the trailer. Works AWESOME!! only downfall for me is it has a 14 ounce limit with the bigger carafe cup reusable basket. My K525 has a 16 which is nice. Yes it is a power hog, it is even a bit bigger than a percolator. Difference is I can have my coffee done in 2 minutes start to finish and not wait for water to heat. You can get most of the water out. It takes a little patience but it is doable. WE just run a descale at the first of our season then get as much water out as we can when we put it up. Been going 2 years and all good so far Chris280Views0likes0CommentsRe: Question?
There are things that work, and there are things that work correctly and safely. A home garage style charger is not going to give you a very clean charge for long term use and your batteries will suffer in the end. It is also not designed to be used in any kind of an enclosed compartment and could very well overheat and possibly catch fire. As cheap as RV MFG's are if they could get away with using a 30.00 walmart charger they would Chris190Views0likes0CommentsRe: Under Awning LED Lights
those LED strips are cheap Chinese JUNK!!!! Ours was out within the first hour of using them. You could see the break in the internal wire. They were replaced under warranty and have been better. THey are VERY easy to replace. The strips are sticky taped to the awning or wall. Just pull them off and replace them. Most have a plug to just plug in to power Chris169Views0likes0CommentsRe: No Lights When Running On Battery....
cm11599ps wrote: I currently have the batteries disconnected and the camper unplugged from the house. I'd like to see if the batteries can hold the charge cause like I said, I think they're on their way out anyway. I'll play with things again in a few days when I get some time. Although you may have batteries that are not up to snuff that is NOT your issue! Just like other said, you have something going on in the wiring from the batteries to the trailer. IN my 2005 I had the auto reset circuit breaker fail. It was right below the batteries on the frame. My new trailer has one mounted in the battery box up high. Follow your hot wire from the frame and find either the fuse or CB and test voltage on both sides of it. There is one somewhere. Also check and make sure your ground wire is attached securely to your frame close to your batteries. Chris630Views0likes0Comments
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