hddecker
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Re: Dometic Digital Thermostat Replacement
Jimbee wrote: Thanks for the replies! I tried reprograming the thermostat to the 1 degree differential, but it seemed like the thermostat couldn't make up its mind whether to call for heat/AC or not. It kept making an on/off clicking noise from what I assume is a relay switch in the AC unit where the control box is; like the thermostat wouldn't fully commit to a function. I was afraid it would eventually damage whatever relay it was communicating with. Do you have you fan set to auto. How close is the t-stat to a heat register. The genius that designed our camper decided to put a heat register in the hallway right below the stat. Furnace comes on, blows hot air at the stat it shuts off, the ends of the TT were always cooler than was comfortable. I blocked off the register and now the heat cycles as it should. Try looking around this site if someone has done the mod you may find it here. http://www.modmyrv.com/2008/07/14/rv-digital-thermostat442Views0likes0CommentsRe: Siding Replacement
Not something I would consider. Factory walls are laminated on the horizontal plain, then run through a pinch roller to ensure there is good contact of the panel to the glue. I can't envision trying to hang the fibergass to a vertical surface and then get the air rolled out of the lamination.255Views0likes0CommentsRe: Possible TT Modifications??
lizzie wrote: Seems like a lot of trouble, expense, and loss of storage space just to avoid the CG laundry. Has DH heard something bad about them? We don't use them much as we prefer to drop off laundry in near-by communities and have it washed and folded while we are having fun, but we don't have a problem with them. Just curious. lizzie I agree, we started using laundry services last year. We were on the road for 55 days on one trip. We find the service as soon as we get to a stop and ask about timing, they usually offer next day service, so we drop the laundry off 2 days before we will be leaving. I would sooner do that than hearing a washer and dryer running while I'm trying to read or watch the news.425Views0likes0CommentsRe: Building a parking for the trailer and cover suggestions
I used crusher fines for the base, layed in treated 2X10s for the tires to sit on, then a layer of decorative rock on top. The carport is how I would go, I was considering a cover until I saw a video on how they go on, looks like a PITA.615Views0likes0CommentsRe: Furnace blower noise
Doug33 wrote: hddecker wrote: Just one more example of our throw away society. I remember the days when you could still rebuild stuff and the parts did't cost you as much as the new product. I had a $500 dishwasher and they want $400 for new racks. They had a $900 dishwaher on sale for $500. Gee what should I do. wash dishes by hand? ;) I don't do windows and I don't do dishes.:D471Views0likes0CommentsRe: Furnace blower noise
Just one more example of our throw away society. I remember the days when you could still rebuild stuff and the parts did't cost you as much as the new product. I had a $500 dishwasher and they want $400 for new racks. They had a $900 dishwaher on sale for $500. Gee what should I do.471Views0likes0CommentsRe: question about rv toilet
opnspaces wrote: You can work on it while mounted on the floor. But it's so much easier to pull it and carry it outside. You will need a new foam seal for the toilet and maybe a piece of cardboard. Turn off the water supply and the water pump. Open a sink drain to bleed the pressure out of the water lines. Place the cardboard on the floor in front of the toilet. Remove the two nuts holding the toilet to the floor. If I remember correctly they are 7/16" nuts. Tilt the toilet forward and unscrew the water hose from the back of the toilet valve. Lift the toilet up off the floor and be amazed at how light and extremely cheap feeling the toilet is. You can set the toilet on the cardboard to catch any drips, then carry the toilet and cardboard out of the trailer. If you want to add a hand sprayer, now is the time to do it. You will see a sealed barbed fitting coming off the back of the flush valve. Go to Lowes,/Home Depot and buy a standard kitchen sink sprayer and hose combination (apprx $10) Cut the fitting off the end of the new sprayer hose. Cut the tip off the barbed fitting on the water valve. Slide the sprayer hose up onto the barbed fitting and secure with a hose clamp. Put a new foam gasket on the black tank. Set the toilet on the existing bolts and attach the water lines.Sit on the toilet to compress the new gasket. Tighten the two nuts that hold the toilet down to the floor. If needed have your friend sit on the toiled while you tighten the bolts. Done. X2 on the seal X2 on big box stores as well as auto parts stores for many camper supplies.353Views0likes0CommentsRe: running lights/tail lights not working
anaro wrote: Yes you can unplug and blow on the connections and try plugging in again. Then test the output from the truck to see if you have power coming out at the pig tail receiver (7 pin connector) if you have power coming out for all pins then the fuse or tv is not the issue. Then you need to be looking at the tt. Isn't there a ground in there? I think you only have power six terminals. http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-travel-trailer-plug-wiring.html How long have the lights been out? This should have been caught as soon as it happened. Just because you usually tow during the day doesn't preclude you from doing a pre-trip every morning. I'm sure the CVS would just love to have you roll up to a safety check. Maybe you would like to refresh your knowledge of the "towing a trailer" handbook, before it costs you dollars, points, increased insurance.477Views0likes0Comments
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