All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: water heater issueI did not try to light the tank with n o water in it. I do not use the water pump. I always hook up to shore water. One less thing to winterize. I always have the hot water faucet open. Otherwise there is no other way to know when the tank has filled. I have pulled off each terminal connection and checked them for corrosion. I will try to replace the ignitor and see if that helps. I tend to think its the module based on the fact that at one point, when turning on the gas switch inside the rig, I would hear the gas valve open, I would hear the ignitor clicking away. Like I had mentioned at one point, I was able to manually light the flame using a long reach ignitor. Thanks for the input.Re: water heater issueThank you for the Link to Dinosaur. I have sent them an e-mail with my module part number and my hot water heater model number. I was unable to find the needed part using their cross referencing tables. The HWH is Atwood GC10A-4e and the module is 91346Re: water heater issueAfter going back and reading what I have said in various posts, I think Im confusing a lot of people. We have hot water. Because the electrical side is working properly. However, even though a few weeks ago the gas valve sounded ok and the ignitor sounded ok. Previous tests I could hear the valve and the ignitor clicking. But todays test, neither sound was heard. Now I want to replace the module on the gas side. I am pretty sure its the module. I have read about the Barracuda brand replacement module but googling it hasn't helped. The module I need to replace has part number of 91346. Goggling that part number brings up a lot of modules similar to the one I have but not an exact match. Does anyone know where I can cross-reference a replacement for my module? Hopefully a Barracuda. Thank YouRe: water heater issueSo, just now I went out and did a manual lighting of the gas side. So, the valve is good. What's weird is that when it is going through its 'trying to light cycle', it sounds like the ignitor is clicking. So, should I lean towards a module replacement of just an ignitor replacement?Re: water heater issueWell, we have been in our spot for close to 3 weeks and I thought I would tackle why my gas side isn't working. I turned off the electric heater, turned on the gas heater and listened. I did NOT hear a sound out of the gas valve, but the ignitor did try to fire off the heater. The heater is an Atwood Model GC10A-4E I did a continuity test on the 2 amp fuse for the module, and it is good. There's also a fusible link that tests good but the contacts were a bit corroded. I had read somewhere about replacing the module with a barracuda brand module. I have not been able to google that brand of module. The electric side of the hot water heater has seemed to have quit heating also. We had super hot water on that side. I don't see anywhere on the heater where the electric element would be located. Also, would it be worth replacing the thermostat board? They appear to be fairly inexpensive.Re: DSI FaultI replaced the batteries which showed bad when tested. I now have heat. No hot water on gas though. I turned on the gas at the panel and went outside. I could hear the solenoid activate, then no spark. So, I suspect that the control module may be bad. Not sure if there's any way to test. Hot water does work on the electric side. So, we will continue to our destination and do some more work on it when there. Thanks for all the ideasRe: DSI FaultSo, we got to our next stop. I did two voltage tests. 1 was to check the battery voltage without shore power..13.1 then I plugged shore power in and it said 13.7. That should tell me that the charging system of the rig is working. TV? I guess that's short for tow vehicle. I have taken the batteries out, will have them tested. If they show good, then its back to the drawing board. If the are bad, I'll buy new ones. Stay tunedRe: DSI FaultI am currently on the road between nightly stops. A thought came to mind. Battery condition. I am pretty sure the batteries in the RV are close to being shot. I am replacing them as soon as I get to Barstow. I know that if I try to use the auto leveling feature without being connected to shore power, i get a low voltage error soon after the levelers have started working. If my batteries are not providing enough volts, could that make the ignitors not function properly? Also, if the fan in the furnace isn't spinning at the proper speed (due to low battery) then the furnace will not light? Im thinking that could be the case. However I am going to replace the batteries first since the rig is a 2016 ands I haven't replaced the before.Re: DSI FaultSo, I watched a video on DSI faults. Learned a lot. However I still think that it has to do with gas supply. Which confuses me because the burners on the stove come on. I ran them for several minutes. Throughout the morning, I have tried to start the furnace and first the blower comes on, then I hear what sounds to me like the flame working, but after 15-30 seconds it shuts down but the blower runs for a bit longer.Re: DSI FaultAfter reading some other posts regarding DSI, I see that it is Direct Spark Ignition. It lights up after 3 attempts at lighting. I turned on the stove burners and I have gas there. I switched to a new tank that I know is full. Both the furnace and the hot water tank now do not want to light. Sigh