All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: tow vehicle advice TRIPLE8 wrote: Hi, personally I cant imagine that 30 foot toyhauler will weigh anywhere near 15000 loaded up. I have a 32ft fifthwheel toyhauler in sig fully loaded with 130g of water, rzr, ready to camp that scaled at only 12500 lbs. (cat scale) I would not hesitate pulling it with that truck. Well, I was surprised also,, imagine this... My FSW3200 in sig, as empty as I could get it, tipped the scales at 11,800. Now imagine adding 150gal of fresh water, +10gal in WH, +40 gal fuel in fuel station, 2o gal in genny tank. Now its way over its 13,000gvw sticker with no toys or any supplies, tools, groceries, kitchen stuff, clothes, bedding, etc, all stuff that adds up quick. Then add just 1 SxS 1600lb for a turbo Polaris or Can Am, and maybe 1 or 2 atv for another 1000lbs. Good thing WW used 3 6000lb axles, and South Cal RV doctor did my extensive frame upgrade many years ago. And with the Michelin XPS Ribs, no blowouts. Still, even at that weight, the 2014 f350 does tow it good, no sway at all. But most of the time fully loaded it is over the F350 tow rating of 14,000, but not the axle or TW rating, most of the time. So, loaded even lightly not really ready to camp, with no fresh water,,, puts my triple axle bumper pull in the heavy 15,000 lb range for sure. I posted the cat scale paper here years ago, you can find it if you search for it...Re: tow vehicle advice ppine wrote: You truck is rated for 13,000 pounds or less. Ignore the people that tell you everything will be fine. You need a newer truck or an older F-450. Dennis58 wrote: Personally I would not put a 15k bumper pull trailer behind single wheel 3/4 ton truck. I would look for at least a 3500 DRW truck and buy a Hensley Hitch. https://hensleymfg.com/ My Ford 2014, F350 srw Platinum is rated for 14,000 range conventional towing,as are most all cc sb 4wd srw of its era. The very newest, usually in hard to find configurations get max tow ratings over 15,000. Yes, if you order a new srw 350/3500 2020 truck you can get 1 that has 20,000lb max conventional tow ratings. My 2014 F350 2.5" hitch is rated for 1850lb tw and 18,000 tow. I try not to go over that tw rating, but sometimes slightly, always keeping under max awr... if the trailer is loaded correctly it tows great. Needs max tw or more to tow good. With these big 3 axle tag TH, TW is everything... Can't stress that enough, don't be scared of huge tw numbers as long as your truck can handle them. If it can't you'll need a new truck.... Also, the Hensley hitch recommend is rated to 14,000lbs max. and goes for $2000+ I just got a new WD anti sway Anderson hitch $650.00 that has a 20,000lb ball, 16,000lb tow, 2000TW. It just uses chains, no heavy bars, no sway bar. It controls sway better than any hitch I've ever used and tows the best I've ever used on a big TH. My last hitch was a husky 14,000 with bars and a sway bar. It worked ok, but not nearly as easy to use as the Anderson. Nor did it tow as well, and it could not control sway well when tw was not enough... The Anderson is a more forgiving in loading/tw... As suggested above, a drw will tow a big 3 axle much better for sure, but a newer srw 350 tows fine and optioned out correctly is not over its ratings. But get a newer drw if you can justify owning a more or less $50,000+ single purpose truck thats not really at home in urban daily driving... Been shopping for a new truck before this cv19 hit. Saw a beautiful drw F350 limited for $101,000 at my dealership... Who would have thought trucks could cost over a 100grand... jmoRe: Where window when sleeping?When camping in the SW desert even in the 40's, I love to breath the cool desert air while in bed with thick comforter, its awesome. But to much to leave the window right by my head open. The window at my feet/side is perfect with another window open in the middle of the TH to make some circulation, leaving bedroom door open. This makes for a cool nites sleep without a draft on the back of my neck... I've tried it both ways since I have a window by my head and 1 by my side/feet. For me, do the hip window for sure.... jmoRe: Generator dies after load Stootz01 wrote: Been searching for fixes for this for months and the forums that post ideas always die without a fix so here we go. I have a Onan 4K generator that started out dying after 10 min no matter what. I installed a new fuel pump/filter and carb, oil change, no fix. I took the air filter out while it was running to inspect it and noticed it would keep running but when the AC was on it would die...so I changed the air filter...no change under load but it would keep running without a load. I then took the metal air filter cover and left filter on....would run under load but would then die after 10 min. I then discovered there was an additional after market fuel filter on it under the RV so I bypassed it, changed the spark plug while I was at it and discovered that it would run for 30 min under load before it died. I then discovered a youtube video of someone claiming that draining oil below the low level line would keep it going. Comments suggest that was a mirical worker and it seemed to fix the problem for a lot of people.....but not mine.... I'm getting closer to nailing this down but I'm out of ideas Give me suggestions....I'll do it man!!!! Gen has 216 hrs on it Have you checked HZ/voltage while running and immediately before unit shuts down..? Very common for a over/under hz safety shut off to occur if governor/engine speed is not set exactly correct. When switching between no load/full load governor struggles to maintain correct rpm to keep hz/voltage in safe/no safety shut down range. I set 5500 onans for 62-63hz under no load. When genny goes to full load the rpm drops just enough to drop the hz to 59-60. if it goes below 58-56hz for 10 seconds the unit will shut down on low hz safety shut down... Above 66hz will also trigger a safety shut down. The efi models are a little different but similar... Whatever you do, DO NOT drain oil to below low level line and run unit like that utube vid suggests, unless you like rebuilding engines. 1 of the worst web recommendations I've ever heard...lol. jmoRe: Weekend Warrior fender lights wwpuller wrote: Does any one know where I can pick up a 2008 Weekend Warrior fender tear drop red light? Had a tire blow out and it is missing. Not sure if you need the whole light or just the lens.? this link is the whole light, a little expensive but they match. iirr I got 1 from them before they changed names or were bought out some years ago. It matched perfectly. https://weekendwarriorpartsandservice.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fled-tear-drop-lightsRe: daytime running lightsNot sure what Ford F450 chassis you have, but most all the ones I've seen can get DRL turned on very easy in the pcm. Some tuner modules will have the ability to turn it off/on, mine does. Also not sure if you have the Ford pcm in your f450 chassis or the RV up-fitter added their own pcm system.? Or if you have a hid light conversion that does not play well with drl. A dealer tech that knows his way around the IDS TOOLBOX in 2 minutes can click the mouse once or twice and it will be on, at least on the Ford pcm. Probably worth asking a Ford tech that knows ids. Many of the service writers will have no clue what you're talking about, need that tech that knows the IDS TOOLBOX. All he has to do is plug into the obd port and he'll know in seconds if it can be done.Re: Oil absorbent mats? 95jersey wrote: TWZMYJP wrote: allcool wrote: I must be old school,,, How about fixing the leaks...? I have to laugh, because this was my first thought as well, particularly when the OP mentions "... an ounce of prevention..." No leaks but t have a carb that occasionally spits out gas through the overflow. jfyi, This is what I've found over the years to prevent a fuel overflow spill on a carb'd engine that usually have a fuel petcock/shutoff. EFI engines no longer have this leaking problem. Sometimes that petcock unfortunately gets old and doesn't shut fully any longer. They're are easy to rebuild with a few new o-rings/cleanup and get back to a tight positive shut off. What I've found best, is to shut off fuel and drain the float bowl before storage in the TH, or anywhere. Leaving this current day 'pump gas in a carb for weeks/months is a eventual recipe for varnish and carb problems. And leaking. If draining the float bowl is not easy to do/accessible, then on a quad or dirt bike, if you stand it straight up on its rear wheels for a moment or 2, all fuel will drain out of the float bowl overflow tube emptying the bowl. jmoRe: Oil absorbent mats?I must be old school,,, How about fixing the leaks...?Re: Tongue weight, revisted souraider wrote: Wow...3180 that is a lot. Used to tow an "07 fsc3200, while it was a pig, I always kept it under #13000. Tongue was always in the 1400-1600 range, and it did like to be at the higher end of that for towability. It towed well behind my old '06 F350 using the old school eaz-lift wdh. The WW FSC3200 I've seen have the same sticker I do, 13,000 & 1090TW. Optimistic at best. They did have different floor plan & frame than the FSW. Oh ya, mine is what they called a FSW3200 plus 2' as per its invoice.Re: Tongue weight, revisted 1L243 wrote: That is the most TW I have ever heard on a Bumper Pull Toy Hauler. I think I would have went with the lower TW and then figured out why the trailer was not handling well. Anti sway, stiffer tires truck tires suspension??? 1700lbs TW on a 13000lb trailer with triple axles should be plenty... Got a 17,000lb WD Sway control hitch, it works very well @ 15%TW> LT235/85 16 Michelin RIBS are full steel carcass and steel belt LT tires that are very stiff and seem to me to be one of the best TH tires you can buy. Just greased all the suspension bolts and checked it out in detail. All the grease hole bolts were changed out by RV Dr. Any suggestions on what to look for on the suspension..? Tires wear perfectly even, if at all. What did they do to the frame of your trailer to make it stronger? Looking at the example of ependy pics I would think they would have to reinforce the entire frame structure. IIRR, S Cali RV Dr. added 8 steel cross frame 2.5"boxed tube between the frame rails. Added spring perch gussets and 2" steel boxed tube frame reinforcements to the frame where the springs mount. Also added at least a couple dozen new outriggers and beefed up/reinforced the existing outriggers also. Those were the main additions out of many more things they did to beef it up, iirr.It wasn't a cheap job, took 3 days of work, I watched a lot of it. They make super heavy rated trailer hitches but if your hitch is stock on your Ford I would guess it's more like 1250TW and 12,500 Gross..Good luck... On my F350 2014 Ford hitch it says 1850lb. The 2018 Fords say 2450lbs with WD. Assume the 2018 Ram 3500 I just towed with says similar but didn't check..? And no, I do not like being over this rating. In the market for a new 2018-2019 F350 now. Ya, it is a heavy beast. WW states 1090 TW and 13,000 gvw. Not even close to reality. From my experience after owning it for about 8 years now, no way possible to ever get 1090TW/13,000gvw, ever. GVW empty is 11,800, just add water and your over gvw. From what a old WW plant manager once told me, all large TT WW TH were stickered with 13,000gvw 1090tw ratings, no mater what they actually were. For some California code compliance reason I don't understand. Seems to tow very very nicely at 15-20% TW. At 10%tw its a handful.At 12% TW its better but still not comfortable. At 15%tw its about the perfect compromise to me and tows great. More TW up to 20% just makes it more solid and steady towing and actually makes towing a pleasure forgetting its even back there sometimes. Well, not sure I understand you, "figured out why" ,,, please help me figure out how to get TW lower and still tow great..? To answer your questions, somewhere on our forum are pics and a detailed posts of what RV DR does to beef the WW frames of this era...
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