wareagle30
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Re: What is the proper way to hook up a stereo amp?
2 or 0 ga wire, off pos battery terminal. You'll want a 100amp inline fuse, then an appropriate capacitor. You might as well add a shutoff switch for the power to the sub too. If you aren't plugged in to shore power, she's gonna go dead mighty quick pulling that kind of amperage.301Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fridge efficiency advise
I'll have to look at my service manual again. I don't recall there being an LP filter, but I am likely wrong. We tested at the feed line, not a test port. Again, I'll have to look at the manual to find the test port. I'm guessing that it could be possible the fridge is seeing less than the 11" at the feed line? Looking at the back of the fridge, it looked like the feed line went into the valve, then into the tstat, then to burner. And thanks for the advise - I'll pull the baffle and brush/blow out the flue tonight (time permitting). So far in this thread, I've been told: A) Increased air flow via fans might help B) Not to replace the AC element C) Replace the whole fridge with a residential model D) Keep my current fridge and clean it E) Adding insulation to the sides won't hurt, but more or less probably won't help332Views0likes0CommentsRe: Fridge efficiency advise
I think a regular "dorm fridge" will be out of the question? (Looking for personal experiences given the explanation below...) While I have a Yamaha EF2000iS generator, more often than not, the places we go don't have any elec hookups. More so, we usually setup base camp with the trailer, then go out on day long excursions. I don't want to leave the generator running (or out) while we're gone (I usually lock it up in the pickup). I haven't read much about how long a mini-fridge will stay cool without power, or how long/often I'd have to apply power from the gen to keep it sufficiently cool. I've already got the computer fans and a couple switches. I've got some left over 1" and 3/4" foam board (with silver face) from a home insulation project. I figure I'll go ahead and insulate/install fans, reinstall burped fridge, and see how it goes. Worst case scenario, the beer/water can go in the fridge and stay at 45-50, and we can put the perishables in the Yeti cooler for future trips. UNLESS, some of you can convince me that 30 mins or so of gen usage twice a day is sufficient to keep the fridge cool. And yes Ed, I agree, any absorption replacement is out of the question. RM2510 is listed as the replacement, and they go for $675 at our dealer here in town, plus $75 freight. That'd be nearly half of what we paid for the trailer in the first place. And the 2510 isn't exactly a plug and play... I'd have to do some trimming on the opening. Not that I wouldn't with a residential fridge either (or fabricating trim pieces). To the other poster, I was getting 11" water column at the valve when I tested it prior to winterizing. I'll clean the burner and jet too, but I've got a nice pretty blue flame right now. Probably about 1.5" tall.332Views0likes0CommentsFurnace Pilot Light Burns Out overnight
Same TT in my other thread "Fridge efficiency advise" At night, I turn the gas on and light the pilot. It stays lit. I set the tstat, when it calls for heat it blows hot air. All is well. Wake up the next morning (every night) and its cold in trailer and pilot has flamed out. Why? Thanks in advance!2.3KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Fridge efficiency advise
Fishinghat wrote: (snip) Finally, I'm amazed a 1979 frig is still working. You're lucky. I know! Especially after hearing about all kinds of folks that have theirs go bad after 2-7 years. I've read VERY few cases of someone reporting a 20+ year old fridge working. Thanks for the input. How would I wire one inside the unit? How did you get the wires in? Mine doesn't have a light or 12v control board. She's OLD.332Views0likes0Comments
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