All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: driving speedBoth in our last coach, a V10 gasser, and in our current coach, a 340HP DP, I hold it right around 63-65 mph. Sure, it will run faster with ease, but I feel more comfortable with the control at those speeds and it's not like I'm in a huge hurry to get to my destination. On a DP, look for the speed that gets you around 1,700 RPM - that should be the sweet spot for you.Re: Upgrading Audio SystemCan you post some pictures of the current unit? Also, are you looking to upgrade the entire unit or just the sound quality (speakers)?Re: Driver side wiper Goes too far to the left.There are a number of Forest River coaches experiencing this problem. What seems to have happened is the factory failed to insert the serrated locking washer under the acorn nut that holds the wiper arm on the splined drive spindle. Remove the acorn nut, pull the wiper arm off the spindle and reinstall it to the correct location, then reinstall the acorn nut but use a bit of blue LocTite to keep it from coming loose. Should solve the problem. Make sure to do both sides.Re: Exhaust tipNot sure what diameter of pipe you're looking for, but here's an 18" extension: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36477/overview/Re: Class A gas w/toad helpWe now have a DP, but our last RV was a gasser - V10 Ford F53. The 5,000# hitch will get you a long ways with most toads, just not the full size trucks, etc. that some pull. I pulled a Tacoma Crew Cab on a car hauler with the gasser and didn't have any issues. With the car hauler, I was actually a little over the 5K rating but close. I now have a Wrangler Unlimited, weighs about 4,200# and I flat tow it - no issues. That should work great for what you're talking about. Just make sure to get a supplemental brake system for the toad - I use the Invisibrake and it works fantastic!Re: Syn oil in generatorAre you sure you didn't accidentally overfill it when you changed the oil? Not being critical, here, but it is very easy to do. I found when I changed mine that I had to put in about half the oil, then let it stand for a few minutes and level out before I added the rest. That combined with the odd amount of oil it held (1.4 qts was the factory spec) can really mess folks up.Re: Wrangler toadGot to agree with mowermech - try explaining the interstate commerce laws to a state trooper on the side of the road and you're hosed. Virginia can't make you get an inspection sticker to drive through the state, but they sure as heck can nail you for having a radar detector in use. Besides which, I don't believe there are that many states that don't require supplemental braking anyway. It's just not that hard to do. We use the Invisibrake in our Wrangler - permanently installed, never any equipment to mess with, doesn't run down the battery, completely out of sight and works great. I might not worry about my own safety sometimes, but I'd hate to think I hurt someone else by trying to save a few bucks and a little hassle.Re: Wrangler toadI have to agree with Effy - this topic comes up every time you turn around. Just to note, someone had said it depends on your home state's rules and whether or not they require a braking system. It also depends on any state you intend to drive through. Regardless, what if the vehicle comes lose? It's not going to stop itself without a supplemental system in place. For our Wrangler, we went with the Invisibrake and love it. Out of sight, stays in place, doesn't eat the battery alive. Whatever you do, definitely put something on it.Re: tire ageThere are arguments all over the board on tire age, etc. Here's the thing nobody seems to mention: Would you rather spend $3K on a new set of tires and drive without a worry or keep the old tires, have a blowout and possibly kill yourself and others and almost surely do at least the same $3K worth of damage to your RV? Sure, a new tire can blow and do just as much damage, but consider the odds. I like the thought of being at ease with my tires and spending the money - just me, but a thought. I also think a lot of folks wind up blowing their tires because they're trying to fine tune the pressure so much looking for the elusive "smooth ride". Inflate them to the max on the sidewall and drive. It's a truck, folks, not a luxury vehicle! Under-inflation causes blowouts, not over-inflation (within reason, of course). I read all of this stuff about "I weighed the RV and set the front tires to 87.8 psi and the rear to 92.3 psi" and have to chuckle. Get real, folks, your gauges aren't even that accurate!Re: Class A towing recommendationsThanks, lanerd - Not saying what I was told was correct, just what I could see on hitches in the RV lot, so your insight is appreciated. Possibly the transmission has more to do with it or it could be the MH length - I was looking at 38' and up (ours is 39).