JLTN_James
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Re: 2" gray water drain fitting...
The trailer outlet is a standard 1-1/2" NPT connection. The big box home improvement stores will have threaded fittings. I've decided that the garden hose adapter is somewhat worthless since it is unvented and restricts the flow to nearly nothing. I use a black ABS plastic fittings to a assemble a very functional system. I start with a female treaded fitting on the trailer to a wye fitting. From the lower side of the wye, I have a 45-degree elbow to a 1-1/2" pipe, 24" long. This goes into my gray water collection bucket (or a 1-1/2" to 3" adapter and stinky-slinky for full hookup sites). From the top side of the wye I have another 24" long pipe going vertical to vent. The vent makes a major difference in the drain operation. Since it is an unpressurized gravity drain, the entire set up is just slid together so I can easily assemble/disassemble.335Views0likes0CommentsRe: Using my PUP for the 1st time
I've camped several times in freezing overnight temperatures. Only once have I closed the unit down during colder weather. We ran the propane furnace and the electric heater on high until the very last moment. This helped keep the vinyl pliable. We moved pretty quick once the door was stored though. Since we use the water system, we drain the pipes for the night. Simply shut off the pump or disconnect the city water line, open the sink faucet and the low-point drains. The water tank wasn't in danger, and the water heater was full and on so no risk of freezing there! If camping where hard freezing is possible, we fully drain the entire water system and use bottled (tap) water.473Views0likes0CommentsRe: Turn signal problem...
If it was a dirty connection, then it's one of two places: the bulb socket or the pigtail. My money is on the pigtail... I'd recommend putting some "bulb grease" on all the bulb sockets and the pigtail. The grease is available at auto parts stores or Wal-Mart for a few bucks. One tube will last you well into your next two trailers! Clean all the connections with a stiff brush first. Don't forget to put some on the tow vehicle's lights and trailer connector while you're at it. I'd also recommend opening up the trailer pigtail connector every couple of years to make sure those screw connections are tight. A little grease there wouldn't hurt either. Glad to hear the installer bought back the Curt time-delay brake controller. You'll be much, much happier (and safer) with the P2.411Views0likes0CommentsRe: A '101' A/C question
Although I don't have AC on my PUP, it is "prewired" from the factory for it. What this means is that there is a dedicated 20A receptacle for the AC (i.e. it's the only device on that circuit). Mine is located low on the wall below the dining table; yours may be different. The AC cord would route across the ceiling, down a wall and plug into that receptacle. The cord would need to be about 10' long to reach. FYI - You can tell a 20A receptacle because one of the slots is a "T" whereas the 15A receptacles have only straight slots.360Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brakes on this pup?
Resoman wrote: Yesterday, I had a Curt Mfg. Discovery Digital brake controller installed. According to the Curt website, this is the "timed" type of controller, for better or worse. I'll pick up my trailer on Tuesday, thanks again for all your comments. Gary Sorry to hear that. You'll want to replace the time based controller with an inertia controller as soon as possible. They are not much more initial cost than the time-based units. The time based controller is just that, the longer your foot is on the brake, the more power it sends to the trailer brakes. It doesn't matter if you are lightly applying pressure or slamming the brakes. the time controller does the same thing. The inertia based controller senses how hard you are using the tow vehicle brakes (i.e. how fast you are slowing down) and applies a proportional amount of power to the trailer brakes. This is very important when you have to "slam" on the brakes. In a panic stop, the time based controller won't do any good because it hasn't had time to ramp up the output power. The inertia controller will provide higher output power right away. Today, somewhere in central Utah there's a woman and her kid that are still alive and well because I have an inertia based controller. They pulled out in front of me crossing the highway. If the trailer brakes hadn't functioned at full output right away, I would have t-boned the car.337Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2007 Fleetwood Element- Cobalt: Advice needed
lfloom wrote: If it has a bag awning, you might want to bungy it down - or the wind with pick it up and drop it down the whole ****ed night. I put three pieces of 2"x4" industrial Velcro (available at Home Depot/Lowes) between the awning bag and the roof to stop the flapping. They've been holding great for six years now. I don't have to undo anything either to use, or not use, the awning.252Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wheel Bearings on a 7 year old pop-up - Shuld I?
Non-use can be more damaging than use. Things like tires and bearings are meant to be used. Repack the bearings and replace the tires. Minimal expenses and will keep the trailer in service longer. Lots of good information and tips in other posts; check hub temps & tire play, watch for abnormal wear on the trailer, etc. Happy camping!488Views0likes0CommentsRe: Replacement Awning?
One advantage of the stand-alone canopy is that you can quickly take it down if wind gets too much. I often camp where high winds can come unexpectedly, thus I rarely ever use the awning. One disadvantage is that it's another thing to move in & out when setting and breaking camp. I saw a DYI'er make neat weights using clay or plastic pots filled with concrete. They inserted PVC pipe in the middle for the awning legs. A small metal loop was embedded into the concrete to attach a tie-down or bungee cord.237Views0likes0Comments
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