bentSpaceTime
Explorer
Joined 7 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Dometic RM46E Gas Starting Trouble
dougrainer wrote: YES. You will be surprised at how dirty the burner area will be with rust and flaking paint and such. IF you have access to a compressor, blow out the flue above the burner, to remove build up on the Spiral baffle INSIDE the flue tube. I rarely remove the burner, I clean out with a small brush and compressed air from the shop compressor. Then vacumm up the debris. Doug Cool! So, not necessary to remove the burner housing, if I do it that way?671Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic RM46E Gas Starting Trouble
dougrainer wrote: Take a 5/16 open end wrench and tighten the nut from the Thermocoupler at the safety valve. Odds are it is slightly loose and that will stop the millivolt signal to the valve. Doug Wow! Took 2 seconds and it appears to have fixed the problem! Thank you! Is there any reason to cut off the rust on screw and do the recommend cleaning preceedure from the manual?671Views0likes0CommentsDometic RM46E Gas Starting Trouble
The Dometic RM46E - three way refrigerator in our trailer has been having trouble lately getting started. The last couple trips we took, we pulled it out into the street where it was somewhat level like we always do and tried to start it several times on gas and failed. The flame seemed not to ignite at all. I leveled the trailer in the driveway and opened up the back compartment to do some tests. The piezo lighter seems to be working fine. Now for some reason the flame is lighting, but goes out when you let go of the knob for releasing safety device. Sometimes we can eventually get the flame to stay on, if we kept that knob pulled out for a minute or two. Any idea what’s causing the problem here? Found a manual for the fridge online: http://cortezcoach.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/RM46e-dometic.pdf On the last page it says: 48. PERIODIC MAINTENANCE Once or twice a year depending on use, it is recommended to clean and ad just the burner assembly, Proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect the gas pipe from the burner assembly, 2. Bemove the burner housing. 3. Remove the jet, 4. Clean the jet with alcohol and compressed air ONLY. 5. Clean the burner tube and especially the gauze with a brush. Blow with compressed air, 6. At the same time, check the flue baffle: that it is clean and free from soot. Heavy soot formation indicates improper functioning of the burner. Clean baffle and flue. Further, clean cooling unit and floor under refrigerator. 7. Reassemble. 8. The entire gas installation should be checked for leaks at intervals. Test all pipe connections with soapy water, not with an open flame. 9. Check the burner with full flame (MAX) and with by-pass flame (0). Note: The thermostat will not close to by-pass on- setting “0” unless the refrigerator has been working for a few hours and the thermostat bulb is cooled down to at least 6°C(40°F). Hasn’t been cleaned since we’d had it and judging by how rusted on the screw that holds the burner housing on is, I’m not sure if it’s ever been cleaned. Does anyone actually do this maintenance? Is it necessary? Would it help this problem?1.8KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Dometic RM46E 3-way RV Refrigerator Over Cooling
Chris Bryant wrote: Thanks Doug- darned autocorrect! The easiest thing to check is, with the refrigerator down to temperature (cold), does the gas thermostat modulate the flame in the middle of the travel, or just right at the very bottom? If it only makes the flame smaller right at the bottom, it's bad. If it is in the middle of the range, we can work with it. What do you mean by travel?771Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic RM46E 3-way RV Refrigerator Over Cooling
I was trying to check the operation on 120 volts, but the knob that switches from gas to electric is missing. It's the kind where you turn it the the right for electric and then push it in and turn it further. Any idea if 120 is all the way turned to the right vs. 12 volts?771Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic RM46E 3-way RV Refrigerator Over Cooling
Chris Bryant wrote: Because the thermostat is modulating the flame, I doubt it has lost its charge, unless it only modulates at the very bottom of its range. Have you checked the lip pressure? I would sure start with that. I'm pretty sure I have several of those v35 thermostats, if I can find them. How do you check the lip pressure?771Views0likes0Comments
Groups
