Wrkn2mch
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Re: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!
Best tip i can give you is to run it once a month for 1/2 hour (every month without fail), eco-off and under a 1500 watt load like a small ceramic heater on high. this will keep the fuel in the bottom of the bowl moving so that sediment doesn't collect there.Some Sta-Bil or seafoam in the fuel is good too if you don't use it much and the fuel will be in it for a while. Joe472Views0likes0CommentsRe: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!
32dgrz wrote: I bought mine from these guys http://www.wisesales.com/ I bought mine at the same place and i couldn't find it for less anywhere else. Another RV forum i belong to all talk about wise sales as being a good place (which i agree with)...... I had it in about four days. Joe392Views0likes0CommentsRe: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!
jim summers wrote: Is there some carb cleaner that you would recommend using on a regular interval, as a "preventive measure". I have a newer H2000i w/ only 1 hr on it. Would some regular spray cleaner help keep it cleaner-longer ? Also, using this procedure, have you ever chg'ed the jet to a "high altitude" one ? When is that really necessary ? My manual doesn't say. I'm going to S. Utah, Grand CAnyon areas-avg elev 7500". Thnx My Carb Cleaner of choice is "Sea Foam" you can find it in wally world in the auto dept.... use as directed. I use it in my gas with all my old snow blowers, generators lawnmowers and cars and i like it. it can also be used in the oil or dumped in the carburetor while running. Joe430Views0likes0CommentsRe: Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!
Roy and Carolyn I have the same generator/inverter and it is a great item. A tip i got a while back after i let it sit for a few months and it started running rough and needed half choke was to let it run for thirty minutes once a month under a "Load" (ceramic heater etc)with "Eco Off"..... this will keep anything from settling in the bottom of the carb....... this thing will run forever :) Joe429Views0likes0CommentsRe: Step one. Bought the van.
WVvan wrote: Thanks Joe, I've been using sandpaper for the final smoothing. Will I get a finer finish with a hand file or will it be about the same. If it's the same or better might be time to invest in a fine hand file. Probably save money over the long haul apposed to using up the sandpaper. Dave You will get a better finish with the hand file.... the finish will be shiny and less chance of scratching the surrounding work.... the sandpaper takes longer and the look is a little duller on the edges which is still acceptable. If you have a medium grade metal file laying around ( medium is really good once you get the hang of it and not press too hard)try a little inconspicuous spot to see how you like it....never file "up" as you could possibly lift or chip the fiberglass....always "down" from the newest laid section that overlaps the previous..... you'll get a much cleaner edge. When doing final cleanup try not to soak the edge joint too much as the cleaner could "Lift" the edge. Joe378Views0likes0CommentsRe: Step one. Bought the van.
for someone that never did formica work i have to say you have a natural talent for it and it looks really good..... a real fine hand file on the edges when done will get rid of that sharp edge (file in the down position only)..... the talent you show fabricating that complete bed/sofa is outstanding. (wish i could do as neat a job fabricating as you did) LOL...... will be watching this thread with interest. Joe378Views0likes0CommentsRe: Step one. Bought the van.
You have it down perfectly....... small router, the correct bit (be certain that bearing always spins free on the shaft free of any glue or it will burn the surface)..... when the sides are done i use a belt sander to let the top surface level and true..... when you do put the top on and then trim it with the router just take a hand file and finish the edge for a finished professional look. The roller you have is a good choice but most of the times i just use the block of 2x4 you have pictured and just bang away and even use it to slide along the edge to be certain that the top meets the edge perfectly.... pay very close attention to being certain the edge is perfect..... If you make a mistake you can sometimes get a small scraper in between and pout some thinners / acetone in between to get them apart.... I like thinners378Views0likes0CommentsRe: Step one. Bought the van.
Try this all on a small piece of scrap first for some practice I used to work in a formica shop fabricating modular type furniture and there a few different ways to do it and this is just a little tip to make things go easier for you... When cutting formica I usually use a large table saw but you could use a small hand held finish router for a cleaner cut but you could easily turn the saw blade around om your skil saw the opposite direction and run a piece of masking tape up the cut line and proceed to cut...... Gluing: I usually do the sides first then belt sand it down after a trimmer cut ... Now for the top part........... After belt sanding the plywood real good clean off any particles (or it will show thru the formica)glue both the sides to be joined and wait til it looks dry (about three minutes) put small strip boards on top of the plywood and lay the formica on that and remove the center board first and work out towards edges... ( when you get real good you won't need the strip boards)... when it's on the plywood i use a block of 2x4 at hand size and easily bang it all over to get a good adhesion and pay special attention to the edges..... when that's all done i use my small router with a well lubricated bearing on the end of the blade ( so it doesn't burn the formica)and cut around the circumference and finish off with a hand file going in the proper direction... This takes a little practice and using a small 12"x12"x3/4" piece of plywood to practice will save you lots of aggravation. You do really good work and i have been following this thread for a while now Joe378Views0likes0Comments
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