eric1514
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Re: HWH 325A Circuit Board
Also, I found a large capacitor with a broken leg. I might have broken it. Took the board and the capacitor down to my local electronics supply place and he soldered a new one on for me. I described what the board is and he doubted that the capacitor was the problem. He touched up some solder joints and removed a large relay that aligned with the non functioning jack and put it back. At home, I touched up some more solder connections and removed the relay that runs the bad jack and the one next to it. I was going to swap them to see it the problem also got swapped but I got confused and couldn’t remember which was which. A senior moment. Any who, put everything back in and it all works. Yay. I don’t know why, but it does. I’m a happy camper.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: HWH 325A Circuit Board
So, for the archives, it helps to be smarter than the connectors you're trying to separate. The clips with hooks are not meant to be lifted. You are supposed to squeeze them in and then the connector will come out. They're hooked like that just to stab your fingers so they can get very sore putting pressure on them. The part that actually locks the two pieces together is buried deep within. Thanks for your help guys, Eric1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: HWH 325A Circuit Board
This is a shot of the connector, CN2. The smaller brown part attached to the orange part with the wires sticking out of it is what I'm trying to pull out. The larger brown part is screwed onto the back of the silver metal box that holds the PC board. I'm just unclear on what's supposed to happen here because I can't find a picture of the other side of the piece I'm yanking on. I think, the smaller brown part I'm tugging on is not directly connected to the back of the PC board. Instead It connects to the larger brown piece which in turn connects to the PC board. This is done to protect the board from the elements, I think. Basically, I was hoping someone who has done this can reassure me. I scared because I think that PC board is made of unobtainium and I don't want to crack it. I think I can fix it if I can remove it.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: HWH 325A Circuit Board
Yup. Here's quote from that section "If the YELLOW and RED LED’s are lit check the correct pins in the BROWN CN2 connector for +12 and ground. If +12 or ground is not present replace the control box." All the LEDs are lit but I do not have +12 at pin 5 of the connector. It's telling me to replace the control box, which is essentially the PC board. Before I buy one, if I can buy one, I want to try and see if I can perform a simple fix. Either way, I need to remove those connectors.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: HWH 325A Circuit Board
enblethen wrote: Connections in the connector could have arced and welded them together! Just thinking! As you probably saw, C1 connector is main power! What is issue with your jacks? The left rear jack will not respond. When I push the extend button for the rear jacks only the right one will move. If I switch the wires on the solenoids, I can make the left one extend but now the right one won't. I've probed the circuit board at the CN2 connector and pin 5, which is the +12v signal for the solenoid on the LR jack reads 0 volts when the button is pushed. Pins 8, 9 and 10 which provide +12v to the other 3 jacks measure correctly. I've verified there is a good ground at the connector. The LEDs light up correctly. I don't know where to go from here except to remove the board and inspect it looking for broken traces or solder joints. That's why I need to remove the connectors. Eric1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: HWH 325A Circuit Board
enblethen wrote: MP85.2215 somewhat shows squeeze type retainers on the long side of some of the connectors and one indicates a spring type latch retainer. Manual Thanks for that. The CN2 connector is the only one I've tried to remove. The top latch is missing and I can undo the bottom one but the connector just won't budge. Some of the problem is the awkward angle I'm forced to work at. I guess I'll just have to try harder. It seems the PC board is faulty and if I can get a replacement or have this one repaired, all those connectors need to come off. Ugh. I've looked through every service doc I can find at HWH and none of them discuss removing that PC board. I guess it's not the big deal I think it is. Thanks again, Eric1.1KViews0likes0CommentsHWH 325A Circuit Board
Hi all, Has anyone removed the circuit board from the control box on an HWH leveling system? Mine is a 325a system and I can see, and have removed, 2 screws from the bottom edge of the board but it is still attached very tightly to the inside of the metal control box. There are 4 or 5 large multi-pin connectors coming in the back of the metal box and I imagine the connectors attach to pins on the board, but I'm not sure. As it has proven difficult (impossible) to undo these connectors, I would like someone who has done this to let me know if that is the way to proceed. I don't want to break anything and make a bad situation worse. Thanks, Eric1.8KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?
If I remove the shutoff solenoid from my system it will mean that I have to crawl under the RV to turn the shut off valve on or off every time I want to use the system or store the RV. The tank is not located behind a hatch where the knob is easily accessible. I like having the solenoid and I like having it controlled by the detector and will repair it when it goes south.2.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Catelitic Convertor protect?
This cost me around $30. 10' of 1/8" steel cable, pieces to make loop ends, screw-locking caribiner and bike alarm from Amazon. I made loopends on both ends of the cable and wrapped it around the cat and around some large wire bundle. I connected both ends together with the caribiner and tightened it with a wrench. I then zip tied the motion sensing alarm to the loops in the cable, one tie in each loop. If you bump the exhaust pipe or the cable or the alarm it will go off. You can't remove the alarm, cable or cat without making some noise. There's also the visual deterrent. For $30, why the heck not. The alarm comes with a remote.812Views0likes0Comments
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