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Re: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
I think I'll first try to install a new floor on the storage compartment floor including absorbent material plus a layer of plywood, That will be the easiest to do. It should stiffen the layer just above the generator and should reduce some of the noise propagation from below. Since the generator is supported from this floor structure, I suspect most of the vibration noise is transmitted from that surface. Thanks to DrewE and all for the suggestions.703Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
My Chalet has a large storage area over the generator and the ceiling of the storage area is the floor of the bedroom. However, the bed is elevated above the floor and this space is where the water tank is located. So it is like sleeping on top of two drums ! The generator cover top is very close to the floor of the storage area and the support frame is suspended from this storage compartment floor. I'll need to find some thin sound absorbing material to slip in that narrow space, but I guess what ever I can find will help some. I have already glued heat reflective material to line the storage area to keep heat in the RV. Perhaps if I glued a layer of sound absorbing material as a new storage compartment liner will help to absorb both vibration and noise. Does that sound reasonable?703Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
Vintage 465. How did you use the duct liner - to surround the generator? I have two closet walls on either side of the head of the bed. I imagine that I could lower the vibration and noise transmitted through those structures with duct liner or other sound absorbing panels. At the moment, I think the closets are functioning like a musical drum when the generator is running.703Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
I have used the foam ear plugs in the past and have had some success; depended on how fatigued I was. Also, the extra battery is an option; The E450 supposedly has a chassis location to mount one near the V10 under the forward right side of the chassis. Designed for a second engine battery, but could be wired to run the DC fan circuit. The long wire run would probably require a larger gage to insure minimum voltage drop when powering the fan. The A/C noise is more of an "air movement" noise and for me, not as annoying as the generator. I checked the link provided by Joe for soundproof cow.com. That product includes a liquid material to coat structures and absorbs noise and vibration. I might coat the outer shell of the generator and see if that helps.704Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
Yesterday I did a Bing search for "noise cancelling ear plugs" and learned that several companies including Bose sell "noise masking" and "noise cancelling" ear buds that are practical for use when sleeping. I knew that aviation headsets had this technology but had no Idea that the technology is now small enough for ear plugs. These are "active" devices with miniature batteries. This may be the simplest solution yet.704Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
Mr. Wizard, The issue is mostly noise that seems to be coming mostly from around the bedroom windows even when shut. Also, when placing my hand on the closet wall next to head of bed, I can feel the vibration. Perhaps I will line the inside of closet wall with a sheet of something to reduce the vibration. I might make a few noise absorbing panels for the three windows and see if that helps. I also might fabricate a thin flexible enclosure of Dynamat to surround the generator where it is mounted if I can secure it in place somehow. I wasn't sure if the generator was mounted on rubber bushings or not, but I'll check with Winnebago tech rep about the torque settings for the mounting bolts. Thanks for the tips. Next time I plan to use the rig will be in the spring (living in Alaska) however, while I have the time, I wanted to develop a plan of action to solve this problem or at least improve the situation. Thanks for all the suggestions. Bill310Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
Kevin, I've used the "three finger' solution often and it does work nicely after a long day of driving. We use our Class C in winter and summer. Depending where we are, we need the generator for the air conditioner at night. In winter, I don't like to draw down the coach batteries for heater fan all night so the generator is used over night in cold weather when shore power is not available. Local Onan service department had no suggestions. The area under the rig where the generator is located is a very close space. I was hoping that there was a way to mount the generator on bushings to absorb the vibration to isolate the vibrations from the coach. Nothing is made just for this generator mount application, but I still might be able to find something that will work. I haven’t spoken with Winnebago techs yet; they may have a suggestion. I’ve thought about using an external Honda, but the convenience of “in rig” push button starting is a lot to give up in winter. I was thinking of removing the generator and mounting it on a rack on front bumper, but wiring and fuel lines would need to be relocated so I discarded that option. Chris and Ductape, thanks for the Homasote and Dynamat suggestions. I have very little space to insert noise absorbing panels around the generator itself, but I haven't tried that approach yet. I’ll do more research for sound absorbing materials. Perhaps there is a thin product that I can surround most of the generator where it is mounted. Thanks to all. Bill309Views0likes0CommentsHelp Needed to Reduce Installed Generator Noise
Has anyone figured out a way to reduce the vibration and noise from a factory installed generator in a Class C RV? The generator is below the sleeping area and under the floor of the rear bedroom, but leaves a lot to be desired when needed overnight. If there have been successful mods to reduce the transmitted vibration and noise into the sleeping area, I sure could use the help. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Bill4.6KViews0likes30CommentsAwning Rail Inserts
I have the need to make use of the unused portion of my awning rail for another purpose and am searching for a manufacturer that might provide generic inserts that can be slid in the opening at the ends of the rail. Does anyone know of a source for such inserts? Thanks in advance, Bill1.5KViews0likes2CommentsRe: Traveling the ALCAN in Winter
After Action Report - - 5 months on the road in the winter 27 February 2015 First, I want to thank all contributors for their most helpful suggestions. You have contributed greatly to our planning that resulted in a great winter RV experience and safe travels these past 5 months. I thought I might give you all a run-down on our winter trip, what worked and what didn't work for us, and the changes/upgrades we are planning. After considering all of your recommendations and suggestions, before departing in October, we modified a 2013 Chalet Class C that we bought from Great Alaskan Holidays in Anchorage. The unit was a 26QR, 27’ 11’’ long, rear queen size bed and dinette slide-out on a Ford E450 chassis with a Triton 10 cyl 6.8 liter gasoline engine. I glued aluminum-sided bubble insulation to the basement walls and ceiling beneath the bedroom, cut panels from the same material to fit all windows, and installed insulated inserts into the two air vents (bathroom and overhead bunk areas). I also had an engine block heater installed and the 25 foot shoreline power cable replaced with 40 feet of 10 gauge Arctic Flex cable from Polar Wire in Anchorage. I had a full service oil change (blended synthetic) and lube done also before we left. I purchased and used a window/windshield cover which kept the blowing snow and frost that we encounter at Laird Hot Springs over night off the windshield and cab door windows. We winterized the fresh and grey water systems and carried water in two 3-gallon containers stored in the shower area which provided all water needs for the dog and our coffee and personal requirements. We used paper plates/bowls and plasticware to avoid the need for washing dishes. We installed a mattress heating pad to the bed and turned it on for thirty minutes on the cold nights before retiring. Also, I installed a small room dehumidifier to remove moisture when stationary. We carried an additional 1500 watt AC space heater for additional heat when generator was on or plugged in to shore power source to conserve propane requirements of the furnace. On our way home, we stopped at the factory in Indiana and had an Onspot Automatic Chain system installed on the RV…. not cheap, but the most effective and useful tire chain system I have ever used. The chains deploy with compressed air and are retracted by spring tension. It is the same system used by our school district and emergency vehicles here in the Mat Su Valley. We also added a few upgrades not related to the winter season: a small Keurig coffee maker, a 12 volt DC flat screen TV with DVD play in the bedroom, a ScanGauge attached to the engine code reader socket, and a very loud bully horn. In every location we parked in a town or city, we were able to pick up direct digital tv stations varying in number from one to more than 15 in the larger cities. The ScanGauge allowed me to set and monitor 4 of 24 engine measurements simultaneously. This device let me monitor outside air temp (actually, air inlet temp to the engine), engine water temps, fuel consumption rates and particularly helpful, kilometers per hour while in Canada. The large air compressor that is installed with the Onspot Chain system also provides air for the bully horn and a quick disconnect extension fitting for an additional hose for servicing all tires, RV and trailer when towing. The trip went well with minor issues. First event was the loss of all radiator fluid 50 miles north of Ft. St. John on the way south. The ScanGauge showed the temp rise well before the “check engine light” came on. A faulty gasket pinched during the installation of the block heater gave out. Thanks to a couple of Canadians with a cell phone booster in their truck, we were able to contact AAA and got towed into Fort Motors in Ft. St. John for repairs. We were back on the trail south two days later after block heater replacement at the Ford dealer. During a fuel stop on the way home in February, I noticed the left rear outboard tire was low, but hadn’t yet purchased the extra air hose to service it. A short stop and inspection at a truck tire service facility in South Dakota revealed a loose valve extension. Simple and quick fix. Later that day and settling in for the night, we noticed that the furnace was no longer providing heat. Checking the troubleshooting guide, I suspected that we were demanding heat faster than the recently filled tank could vaporize due to the negative 5 degree temps. So I cranked down the thermostat. These attempts provided no relief so we preheated the mattress, cranked up the space heater, added two more quilts and spent the night with relative comfort at temps above zero. Water in the dog dish froze that night. In the morning, I began to wonder if the guy who filled the propane tank the day before had not re-opened the valve to the appliances. Sure enough…. the valve was closed. Surprise.. Surprise… back comes the furnace heat as soon as I opened the valve! Wish I had thought of that the night before! We arrived in Dawson Creek a couple of days before the temperatures warmed up and could not dump our black water tank, the only one not winterized. We flushed with -50 degree RV antifreeze, but this did not prevent the dump valve from freezing,,. it wouldn’t budge. The manager at Tubby’s RV Park suggested we add a box or two of common table salt to the tank, drive around a bit and try again. Tubby’s has a truck and RV indoor wash station, so I sprayed the dump valve with warm water for 10 minutes to help the thaw. Back to the camping spot and another try to dump the tank was successful. We added two boxes of salt and a gallon of RV antifreeze to the empty tank and had no additional problems with that system in spite of the low outside temperatures. We are home and all is well. Three minor delays: lost all air in one rear tire in South Dakota turned out to be a loose valve extension, frozen dump valve, freezing rain when leaving Dawson Creek and couldn’t keep windshield clear so stopped for the day/night in Ft. Saint John, then the left trailer tire went flat in Beaver Creek just short of the Alaska border but got the spare mounted in twenty minutes. Most of the road was covered with ice and snow so we took it easy… five to ten mph under the limits. Got home Tues the 17th of February. That was 4 nights on the AllaskaHighway. …. Ft St John, Toad River, Whitehorse and Tok. Considering conditions, that’s not bad time at all. We monitored the weather at quite a few key locations and therefore were able to “scoot” up the Alaska Highway during a week when temps warmed above those frigid periods of negative temperatures. There are a few things we’d like to add for convenience: a cell phone signal booster for the RV, a heated gate valve for the black water tank, an additional 110 AC outlet at the foot of the bed for the dehumidifier, a “keeper” for the dinette table latch which always released the table when we ran over those chuck holes and bumps we couldn’t avoid, 12 VDC Led light bulbs to replace the standard bulbs, and better mounting “shock” absorbers for the AC generator to dampen the sound and vibration when running. I am not sure the last modification is possible, but we did quite a bit of dry camping and we ran the generator all night (consuming about .5 gallons per hour). I had some difficulty falling asleep on those nights due to the din of the generator. Would we do it again? Absolutely. Good planning, careful preparation, and common sense can provide an enjoyable and certainly memorable winter RV experience in Alaska ….. even on the ALCAN. Bill & Peg Wasilla, Alaska1.1KViews0likes0Comments
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