Sean_Boburk
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Re: Coleman Mach 15
I had an ultralight that had a 29 ft box on it. The single AC would lower the temp in the camper 20 degrees from outside temp AT BEST. More often 10-15 degrees lower than outside temp...especially if the camper was sitting in the Texas sun. I never got around to doing it before selling the camper, but had researched taking out the vent in the master bedroom area and putting a non-ducted unit there, to augment the 15k ducted system that was already in the RV. Article I read, they had run a separate 120VAC power to the camper for the second unit they added. I really see this as the best fix for the problem. I have seen the silver insulation in windows to keep the heat out. Seen the insulating pillow put in the roof vents to keep the heat out. But you pay the same for your camping location whether using one AC or two...and every power stand I saw offered 120VAC plugs in it also. So why not enjoy the view and the full features of your RV? Sean554Views0likes0CommentsRe: Power problems
CA Traveler wrote: pianotuna wrote: Well done Sean. X2 Have the batteries load tested, many places it's free - hoping to sell batteries. A good battery shop can load test and replace as needed. Thanks. I plan on letting the battery sit on the converter for a day or two, then retesting the voltage on it. If it never gets up to 12.5ish vdc (testing with the converter off of course), its bad/needs replacing (I am relatively certain it will need to be replaced). Right now her RV is on shore power and set up at her house for guests. So it is not a pressing matter for now. If it does get up to 12.5ish VDC, I will look into having it load tested before we go camping.536Views0likes0CommentsRe: Power problems
The power converter was a 65 amp three stage converter. I was surprised about the 65 amp rating with how big the RV is. Fifth wheel with two slides, two AC units, two TVs, etc. Anyhow, they had a converter on amazon that was the same model and series, but was 75 amps (it was the exact same physical size). It arrived today, I plugged it in and saw 13.6 volt output (old one was zero). Unplugged it and wired it in, mounted it, and all seems well with the RV now. The only fatality that I can figure out from the shore power jack being wired wrong is one of the TVs does not work. 115vac at the outlet, but does not come on. Smaller LED TV...not sure if they have fuses inside, but it would probably be too cheap to replace the whole TV to make it worth disassembling and trying to figure out if it can be fixed. She had the battery on a charger for 9 or 10 hours set at 10 amps. It read 11.8 volts when I got there...so going to need a battery eventually. Thanks again, Sean535Views0likes0CommentsRe: Power problems
Just a quick update. Had to remove a false panel to get to it, but I found the converter in one of the basement compartments. 120VAC in, 0VDC out, fuses good. Battery at 4.X volts (probably going to need a new battery). New converter on order, should arrive tomorrow (monday). I will post back when there is more to update. Thanks to everyone for their input. I was unaware that some ceiling lights in RVs could be 120VAC. When I saw the light worked, and a 120VAC plug worked, it seemed that at least part of the RV had AC and part DC power. Now I know the DC was totally dead...and it just had AC. I am guessing the electrician fried the converter (or it went bad about the same time), and it worked "for a couple months afterward" because the battery had a charge on it...once it discharged, it no longer worked.535Views0likes0CommentsRe: Power problems
Fj12ryder, since I can't post a pic here, and only a link...i had to find a link to that photo to post it. I did NOT unplug the RV cord from the power receptacle, so no idea what the male end of the power cord looks like. The pic on the right is what the RV side of her power cord looked like. The one with the two L shaped sockets in it. I figured if I had power there...it eliminates everything up to there as a source of the problem.243Views0likes0CommentsRe: Power problems
Ok...always heard them referred to as 120 volt plugs (30 amp 120 volt, and 50 amp 120 volt). Sounds like is is 50 amp 240 then. Thanks. That said, she has power to her RV. She has a lamp plugged in that works. Slides don't work, one ceiling light (12 volt?) works. Most (all?) others do not work. Her Air Conditioning does not work. Cycled all breakers (main and branch), no help. Started pulling fuses and checking them, the few I checked were good, did not check all. Where do I head next? Does the DC have anything to do with the air conditioning (control?)? If the converter was dead...I would think the ceiling lights (all) would not work. But thinking I need to find/check the converter next.100Views0likes0CommentsPower problems
Not my RV...helping a lady. Gal has a 5th wheel...she had a retired electrician wire in a 50 amp jack for it at her house. She "said" that it worked for awhile, and does not now. Also said that he wired something wrong at first and "popped" the power. NO idea if that means it popped the house breaker, or popped a breaker in the RV. Checked for power at the plug that hooks to the RV power jack. The two L shaped sockets have 120 volts to the non L shaped socket, and have 120 volts to the contact on the side of the plug. I did NOT check L shaped socket to L shaped socket. If I do...these should read a relative zero volts correct? 240 volts would be wrong, correct?6.7KViews0likes34CommentsRe: Tires again
Truth is, you could change them today and have a blowout tomorrow. Like someone said, it is up to your risk tolerance. If it was me, and I had a long trip coming, I would change them. If all I was doing is local short trips, i would keep them and monitor closely. Mine were off brand, never covered (in Texas), four years old, had surface cracks, and one got a bubble. So I changed them all. Sounds like yours are name brand, better cared for, and in better shape. Sean365Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Mar 05, 202544,027 Posts
