All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: SEEKING TOW VEHICLE VALUE?? Grit dog wrote: Dude, pump the brakes. Just get on CL and FB and look at what’s for sale. Price accordingly. No need to complicate it with whatever you’re doing ….or just look up the value on kbb and quit clicking links to marketing ****. ^^^^ This, in spades. Just cruise through FB or CL plugging in search terms to reflect your vehicle. See what comes up. Price within that range or a little above / below depending if you want big $$$ or a quick sale.Re: Uncle Tony on Rivian Trucks and Parking Garage FireI drive a gasser and two diesel trucks. Previously had a hybrid Prius. Exceptionally happy with that vehicle. My opinion is that the all electric vehicles are pushed for 1 of 3 reasons: a) the true believers want to impose their view of how the world should be regardless of costs to the average consumer and regardless of the loss of convenience; or b) there is an opportunity to make $$ from electric vehicles (i.e. Tesla); or c) the electric vehicle suits certain niche needs and people in those niches will buy one <<< I don't fit that niche. ....so, by and large, I'm not a huge fan of electric vehicles and I believe there is an agenda behind them (although I won't cast a moral judgment on that agenda). That being said, there are plenty of reasons to challenge electric vehicles: the asserted-in-the-video costs of repair, the apparent spontaneous combustion (supported by an absolute stretch of belief and logic), and the largely unreasoned arguments of Uncle Tony don't provide a sound basis for challenging electric vehicles. I won't support electric vehicles until I'm forced to, but if I were a supporter, this video would not provide any sort of basis to change my view.Re: Auxiliary lightsThanks everyone....appreciate the input. I'll look at Rigid and Nightforce since there is a local distributor for both of those. BarryG20 and Ksss....what you're doing with the lights is exactly what I'll be looking into (although putting them on the ATV may be next year's project). Although I may be able to utilize a top-mounted model in front, I end up backing into too many snowbanks over the winter to use anything except flush mounted lights in the rear. thanks againRe: Auxiliary lightsWasn't intending to ask anyone to undertake research on my behalf, just wondering if there was prior experience with a brand (i.e. Rigid, KC, Lightforce) to choose or avoid. It's a 2019 F250 Lariat Diesel, fwiw. https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/zroadz-oem-grille-led-light-kits/prod4790001 ^^^ that's something like I was thinking for the front...it goes in the grill, but doesn't replace the factory headlights or fog lights. https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-q-series-pro-flood-diffused-backup-kit-flush-mount-980033.html ^^^^ That's what I was thinking of for the rear lights, but again, not experienced with any of the brands or setups.Auxiliary lightsHopefully there's some experience in this group. Since it's getting to be sno-go season up here in AK, which means lots of early mornings, late nights in the dark and cold hooking up trailers, I'm taking the plunge and getting some auxiliary lights for front and rear on my F250. Anyone have suggestions as to brands / setups to use or to avoid? I want to get "in-grill" (if that's the description) lights for the front (no light bar on top of the cab) and something "in-bumper" for the back. All to be wired to to auxiliary switches in the cab for manual on/ off...no connection to any other lights.Re: TiresNot quite the same, but I recently had to use my 30' enclosed utility trailer as a temporary warehouse for 5 months during a major outbuilding relocation project. It was on a dirt lot and, while probably not truly "required", the 2 layers of 2 x 12 under the 4 tires helped alleviate the sink during that period.Re: F-250 vs F-350FWIW, while I can't speak for any later model years than 2019, I've had F250, F350 , and F550. Anything is better unloaded than the F550, btw. :) I've never noticed a huge difference in unloaded ride between the 250 and 350 series. Bit more squat on the 250 if the two were equally loaded. I tend to follow the #'s, so didn't have too many direct comparisons with either fully loaded. My current F-truck is the 2019 F250. After circa 60,000 miles (40-50% towing, although not an RV), my only regrets are: a) that I didn't get the F350 (at the time it was an extra $1500); and b) that I didn't get the 8' bed. No reason for wanting the F350, but in hindsight, the slightly higher ratings would have been worth the $1,500 to me. The 8' bed was a wash price-wise...could have got that for the same price as the 6'- 9" bed since no one seemed to want the longer bed...but nothing was in stock and at the time is was an estimated month to six weeks out. ...hindsight provides lots of reasons for the 8' bed, I kick myself for not waiting the extra 6 weeks.Re: ? condition of highways from Montana thru Canada to Alaska?Silver Eagle nailed it. No expansion joints, but one has to go appropriately slow for the road to Alaska. I always counted on 50 mph average if driving a single vehicle (passenger vehicle or light truck); 40 mph if driving a single big rig (2-1/2 ton, etc); and no better than 35 mph average if towing on a personal mission (whether small rig towing a trailer or bigger rig / bigger trailer). Work travel (the infrequent 18-wheeler and load) could be pushed a little bit harder because the equipment was stouter. In any case, make time on the I-XX and US-XX roads in the L48; take time to enjoy the scenery on the AlCan / Alaska Highway.Re: How to search for tires?Did the OP ever respond after the 1st post? Couldn't entirely blame him if he didn't. FWIW, having driven trailers of one sort or the other since '74....I don't balance the tires on the boat trailer (2 trips per year) or the sno-go trailer (dozens of trips but less than 50 miles each trip), but on the "utility" flatbed (w 16" rims), tires get checked for unusual wear at least once a year and are balanced if any issues show up...without unusual wear, they're balanced every 2 years or so. FWIW, what the shop says does or doesn't need to be done is just one data point: if my experience or the experience of others whom I trust indicates otherwise, that indication often turns out to be an alternate data point to which I'll give more weight.Re: Selling an RV/payment wapiticountry wrote: PA12DRVR wrote: Interesting thread. If the OP is by chance still observing, one way to avoid 99.99% of the hassle / risk of banks / cashier's checks / cash reporting would be to have a title company (or the escrow department of banks that still offer the service) simply undertake an escrow service: will add a few days to the transaction time, but eliminates risk and (IMNSHO) lots of hassle. Don’t think there are Escrow companies that pay out $45,000 in cash. They wire or use cashiers checks. For some reason the poster wants to instantly have a big stack of greenbacks, nothing else. Actually, the OP (who hasn't been back near as I can tell) said: "I will ask buyer to give me cashier's check of a bank that has local, branch, I think. I want to be able to go to the branch in person and cash the check and also first verify that the check is good, before I sign the title over. Had anyone done a sale like this? What are the steps with cashier's check handling to make sure one won't get defrauded?" Escrow avoids fraud and the seller could take the Title Co's check to the local bank and cash that if they wanted cash...but that would of course trigger the scrutiny of the regulators
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