All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Side Cameras QuestionI avoided drilling an additional hole by running the camera wire through the existing hole for the wires that power the adjustments and defrosting features of the side mirror. You do have to remove and re-install the mirror, so this may be more of a job than just drilling a hole, though. I agree with DSDP Don that the side camera view should be independent of the rear view camera to maintain the image of your toad when passing. I have found that I don't rely on the side view camera much. Using the mirrors and the rear view camera works for me. However, having a second set of eyes in the passenger seat is the best viewing assistance that I've found! Good luck with your project and maybe I'll see you down the road.Re: Joining the ranksSomething to think about - If dealing with the 5th wheel was enough to make you jump to a Class A, dealing with a tow dolly will someday be enough to make you jump to a 4-down toad. Save the expense of a dolly and find a 4-down towable vehicle. It ain't cheap to get the base plate, tow bar and supplemental brake system for safe towing, but after your third campsite dealing with a dolly, you may well wish for a 4-down system. My 2 cents. Good luck, and maybe we'll see you down the road.Re: Gen-Turi Question Ivylog wrote: $12 when I made mine 7 years ago so maybe $18 today...alum gutter pipe and $4 suction cup. 2.5" air gap gives the lowest temps. Something about hot air risings. Nice. Your downspout hack appeals to me!Re: Vacuum CleanerAnother vote for Shark products. In a battery operated handheld, it's hard to beat the Shark Pet Perfect. They come in two flavors at $35 to $50 dollars and clean like a champ. The only downside is a 15 minute or so run time on a battery charge. So, it is a true handheld for cleaning seat cushions, spot cleaning rugs and floors, etc. For a corded model, the Shark Rocket runs all day and does the same great job. But for a battery handheld, buy a Pet Perfect model and be happy. We have two. One in the S&B, and one in the RV. Good luck!Re: Easy Question for Seasoned Class A Veterans...Interesting that most Class A gassers that I have seen have a spare stored underneath at the rear of the coach. I don't know whether diesels carry spares or not, but if you're not seeing them, well, that's an answer. That said, changing a tire on a MH can be a bear of a job, and you may be waiting on the side of the road for assistance -- on board spare or not.Re: Need any and all ideas for things to see and do in MichiganAdd my vote for Greenfield Village and the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn. There is something for everyone in the museum -- no exaggeration.Re: Towing 2013 Honda CR-vYou'll need a bright flash light, a magnifying glass, tweezers, three arms and a double jointed back, neck and left shoulder to get the fuse in and out. So true! That's part of the reason I opted for a 2nd battery! (Having the spare battery also comes in handy when I need to jump start my various yard equipment toys after we have been out on the road for a couple of weeks.)Re: Towing 2013 Honda CR-vFirst off, I have to assume that you are running a supplemental brake system that uses the CRV's battery for activation. If so, this will deplete the CRV's OEM battery fairly quickly, and you can't disconnect it if you want your braking system to work. My overkill solution to the dead battery problem was to buy a deep cycle battery which I use to power up my Even Brake toad braking system. I back feed the deep cycle battery into the CRV electrical system. I have a battery cutoff switch on the CRV starting battery which I disconnect when the deep cycle "braking battery" is hooked up. The radio codes and clock stay powered up and the toad can be pulled along for hours without worrying that it won't start. After we hit the campground, we just crank down the battery cutoff, powering the CRV with the starting battery, unhook the deep cycle braking battery, and off we go. I have a smart battery charger that I hook up when we're plugged in at a campsite to recharge the braking battery. I realize this is not as easy a solution as having a 12 volt feed from the RV to the toad, but this solution was our answer when we had a dead battery out on the road (in Nowhere USA) with no easy option to wire a 12 volt feed from the RV to the toad. So, the upshot is, you have to power your toad braking system. You need a source of power that will still allow you to start your toad at the end of your trip. Some folks stop and start up the toad every 2 to 3 hours to charge up the battery and this works. But if you plan on longer jumps between rest stops or campsites you will need to find a way to power your braking system that doesn't deplete your toad's starting battery. A 12 volt feed from some source to the toad (from the RV or a 2nd battery) will allow you to disconnect the toad battery. Lacking that, you have to keep the toad battery connected. I do not recommend towing without a powered supplemental brake in your CRV! Good luck with finding what works best for you.Re: 4 down towableHonda CRVs up to 2013 are flat towable. 2014 model years and up are not flat towable. FYI - Honda Element models feature the same running gear, so they are also flat towable up to 2013 models, too. Good luck finding your perfect toad!Re: Repairing water damage to sidewallStormy Eyes, My awning fabric is anchored at the sidewall in a long "C" shaped channel rail. This rail extends beyond the length of the fabric on both ends and continues forward, past the awning brackets, and ends where the roofline begins to slope downward at the front of the coach. I took a hex head bolt that had a shaft diameter about the same size as the gap in the rail (the space between the open ends of the "C"). I then used my bench grinder to shape the hex end of the bolt to slide into the channel, so the bolt pointed out away from the sidewall. I used a small round file (a chainsaw sharpening file) to slightly elongate the "C" space at the top and bottom, being careful not to expand the space at the opening of the "C." When the bolt fit the channel firmly, I tapped it into the channel until it lined up to the awning bracket's original attachment point. I drilled a hole in the center of the awning bracket to accept the bolt and tightened it down with a lock washer and deformed nut. I contemplated grinding off two bolts to use in the two original holes in the awning bracket, but the effort to enlarge the channel sufficiently along its length didn't seem worth it. The one bolt has to hold just as well or better than two rusted lag bolts driven into a rotted sidewall, I figure. Sorry I don't have pictures to show you this, but our coach is parked off site in its garage until we get weather conducive to putting it back together. Hope this helps. -Notayurt
GroupsMotorhome Group Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Feb 13, 202538,707 PostsRV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts
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