BlackSilver
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Portable icemaker
Our rig has a small refrigerator, so no room for a "built in" icemaker. We bought one of those portable "counter top" models. Because they take up counter space, I'm looking for ideas on where to place it. (Colleen is very protective of kitchen counter space!) It wouldn't be friendly to an enclosed cabinet as it generates a LOT of heat in operation. Wonder what others have done regarding where you "install" these devices?2KViews0likes19CommentsRe: OK, Washer and Dryer in your RV...Do you use them?
jplante4 wrote: Just a note on the subject; I recently stayed at 2 RV parks that had a rule against using your washer/dryer. I'm not sure of the origin of this (WRVPO?). It may be septic or it may be that they want to make money from the laundromat. Did they have an Inspector coming around and checking?325Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
mike-s wrote: BlackSilver wrote: Wow! I think I just got scolded! Ain't he special, folks! You need to consider the source. You obviously put a lot of work into fortifying your awning. If it works for you, good job. Ignore the (non-special) troll. Thanks! Appreciate your comments.941Views0likes0CommentsRe: OK, Washer and Dryer in your RV...Do you use them?
DutchmenSport wrote: I think the difference in wanting-having-needing a washer/dryer is the length of stay in your camper. The shorter the stay, the less you really need one inside the camper, when you are always returning home after a day or two. Exactly! On a weekend trip, or even a week-long camping trip, ours doesn't get used. But (even though our resort has a VERY nice and reasonable priced laundromat) in our 4 month Arizona sojourn, wife uses the stack in the camper.326Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
imgoin4it wrote: I saw an standard manual awning that was extended and anchored down into the ground literally ripped off the coach by a dust devil. Awning arms were broken but still anchored and awning was left in pieces. There is no way to fix or anchor any awning to withstand the wind that day. I retract my awning when away from coach and when it's windy. Very smart habit. If winds above about 30-35MPH are forecast/likely, I also retract my awning, manual or electric. But it's now nice to not need to pull the "Arizona Patio" apart for every little gusty breeze that pops up.940Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
4x4van wrote: Wow, tough crowd (SoundGuy, at least). While the Dometic 9100 power awning is certainly a nice unit, and arguably stronger than the carefree power awning, it still lacks the full triangular form factor that manual awnings have, and so would certainly fall short of that standard. Arguing that the strength/rigidity problem is simply that of brand is oversimplifying the issue. To the OP; for someone who has a similar awning, your setup is certainly another cost effective way to increase the strength and rigidity of it (adding to the options in the link that ependydad provided) without the huge cost of replacing it with a different awning. Kudos. Thanks!!!940Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
SoundGuy wrote: BlackSilver wrote: A few points for you..... As I pointed out, I thought my older Dometic product was strong and well designed. Agree, but your wording suggested Dometic only offers manual awnings which is not the case at all. The Dometic 9100 power awning, which I own, is also well designed ... your problem isn't so much manual or power, it's the fact this awning which you've now modded is a poorly designed, lightweight Carefree of Colorado product. Yes, it's a Carefree product, and as I pointed out, the design is structurally weak. Which you did not identify by brand in your original post. I repeat, the problem isn't the fact you have a power awning vs a manual but the fact it's a Carefree rather than a Dometic. Whatever the "manufacturer intended", we prefer not to tear that space apart for every passing breeze, so I cobbled together something to compensate for the weakness in his "intention". Exactly my point - if your awning was well designed you wouldn't have to "cobble together" anything, just use it as intended. If this is such a problem for you the better solution would have been to return to using a manual Dometic 8500 which because of it's design offers the best in durability in dealing with wind and rain, particularly if equipped with de-flappers. Hey "cobble away" if you can't accept your awning's limitations, I'm just pointing out that it's unnecessary if you use it as the manufacturer intended. Couple of final points before I start ignoring your unsolicited tirades about my "choices" and "manufacturers intentions". (1) My DIY solution cost me about $70.00 out of pocket. Ripping the awning down and replacing with a manual product would cost several hundred dollars. (2) I was mistaken. The awning is not a Carefree. It's a Dometic. And it's still flimsy. But I fixed the flimsy part.940Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
SoundGuy wrote: (1) What's this got to do with Dometic which manufactures an extensive variety of RV awnings, both power and manual. (2) If yours is a Carefree of Colorado power awning (which you haven't said), that's your biggest problem - it blows around excessively because it's an inferior design. (3) Sorry, but there's no way I'd consider this mod to my current 9100 power awning when the simple solution is to just push the button when the wind comes up and in seconds have it safely stored, just as the manufacturer intended. Wow! I think I just got scolded! Ain't he special, folks! A few points for you..... (1) As I pointed out, I thought my older Dometic product was strong and well designed. (2) Yes, it's a Carefree product, and as I pointed out, the design is structurally weak. (3) We are snowbirds, spending 4-5 months in an Arizona resort each winter. Our patio, complete with sunscreens, becomes part of our living space. Whatever the "manufacturer intended", we prefer not to tear that space apart for every passing breeze, so I cobbled together something to compensate for the weakness in his "intention". I took the time to post the description for others who might have been looking for a similar solution. Others, like you, will have no interest whatsoever in my project. Most of them just scrolled past without the negativity.940Views0likes0CommentsStabilize/Strengthen Electric Awning Structure
Our 2011 Big Country 5th wheel has an electric awning. As compared to the manual (Dometic) type of awning, the electric style is downright flimsy, and prone to flop around on windy days. This stems from the fact that is lacks the rigid "triangle" support of the manual design. In effect, the roller basically just floats out on the end of the arms, and can easily be "lifted" by the wind. In a fit of ambition this last week, I have invented an easy DIY solution to the problem. It consists of two sets (one for each end of the roller) of supports. A "top support" of "rafter" which extends for the camper out to the roller, and a "lower support" or "leg" which extends from the roller down to the ground. The "Rafter" This assembly consists of two aluminum tubes which telescope one inside the other. The tubes I found were salvaged from a ham radio antenna project. The longer (6 foot) outer tube has an inside diameter of 7/8", and the shorter (4 foot) inner tube has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch. These telescope together nicely, not real snug, but with minimal play. Other material needed for these rafters: 1) Two ¾” copper caps used for capping off ¾” copper plumbing pipe. 2) Two 5/16” threaded rod 4.5 feet long. 3) Two aluminum “L” brackets, 1”x1”. (I cut mine off the end of a piece of aluminum angle bracket) 4) Two hose clamps, stolen from a garden hose repair kit. 5) Various nuts and washers. This first photo shows the two tubes laying on the ground. The top one is a complete tube, and the bottom shows the inner section and the outer section separated. The outer tube is just a 6-foot section of tube, with a ¼” hole drilled all the way through, ½” from one end. (You will see other holes in mine, these are holes that were already in my salvaged material). The inner section of tubing is an assembly made as follows. 1) Drill a 5/16” hole in the end of the copper pipe caps. 2) Drill a 5/16” hole in one side of each of the L-brackets 3) Using 2 nuts, attach an L-bracket and a pipe cap to one end of each threaded rod. 4) Insert the other end of the threaded rod into the ¾” aluminum tube. 5) Tap the copper cap over the end of the tube until it bottoms out. 6) At the other end of the threaded rod I put a washer between 2 nuts so the rod wouldn’t flop around in there. Slide the two sections together. The photos below shows how that will look when finished. The end of that L-bracket will fit into the canvas slot on the awning roller. On the trailer, at the top of the vertical channel, drill a ¼” hole all the way through both sides of the channel, as shown below. Using a ¼” x 3” pin, attach the assembly to the trailer. Slide the lower section of the assembly out and insert the L-bracket into the awning roller into the slot at the end of the canvas. Extend the lower section until the awning fabric is taut, then secure it at that length with a hose clamp. Repeat at the other end of the awning. The upright "Legs" Again there are two assemblies, one for each end of the awning roller. These are fabricated from 1-1/2" x 1/8' alumininum angle stock from Home Depot. Each leg has two sections, and upper and a lower. For the top section I used a 3 foot length, and for the lower section I used a 6-1/2 foot length (cut from an 8 foot purchased length). All the small parts in the assembly come from that 18-inch cutoff.) I used 1/4" hardware (screws, nuts, lock washers throughout --- I suppose you could also assemble using pop-rivets. The next photo shows the two sections for one leg. on the bottom (long section) I made a 5" foot with 5/16" holes for metal "nail" stakes. n the top section I fabricated a cradle with a 2-3/4” inside width. At the outer end of the factory "U-channel" support, about 2-inches from the end of the arm, drill a 1/4" hole completely through both sides of the arm. Place this hole as near the bottom of the "U" as practical. (Be careful --- one end (usually the front) will have 12-volt wiring for the awning motor) Using a 1/4 x 3-inch pin, connect the cradle to the arm. Then, using 2 small "C" clamps (I got mine at Home Depot), adjust and attach the longer lower section of the leg. The leg can slant "to taste" as shown, or be installed vertical to the ground, as desired.7KViews0likes12Comments
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