All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Using diesel-formulated motor oil in my 2-wheeled RV fj12ryder wrote: The part about a motorcycle oil for motorcycles. Well, Amsoil too, but to a lesser degree. :) That's just an excuse to put a higher price tag on a can of "Motorcycle Oil". I've never run motorcycle specific oil in any of the bikes I've owned and ridden over the last 50 years and several hundred thousand miles. None used any oil to speak of, except for those pesky 2-strokes. :) And I've never had any serious repair problems, except those I caused myself. :) I've got an '86 Yamaha FJ1200 with nearly 60,000 miles and it has had nothing but Castrol GTX and Castrol Syntec run through it and it runs great and uses no oil. Do you understand how a wet clutch works? Yes, some bikes are ok with auto oil, but many more have shifting problems without an mc oil. Also, do you understand about additive packs? The additive packs in mc oil are designed for the higher stresses most mc engines encounter as well as the wet clutch. Sure, you may have gotten by using auto oil, but many more have not. Only an idiot would risk their engine and clutch to save what, $20 a year? If you really think it's worth the risk for such a small savings, go ahead and run auto oil. Just don't recommend such a stupid thing to someone else.Re: Using diesel-formulated motor oil in my 2-wheeled RV fj12ryder wrote: EldIr wrote: Amsoil motorcycle oil. End of story. You need motorcycle oil, not automotive oil. Nonsense. Which part do you consider nonsense? That I prefer Amsoil or that a MOTORCYCLE doesn't need MOTORCYCLE oil?Re: Using diesel-formulated motor oil in my 2-wheeled RV Geocritter wrote: The machine requires 10W40 to 20W50 motor oil which is danged hard to find in affordable places like Wal-Mart, Steve Walmart How hard was that?Re: Using diesel-formulated motor oil in my 2-wheeled RVAmsoil motorcycle oil. End of story. You need motorcycle oil, not automotive oil.Re: BatteryIf it really is less than 3000lbs, you don't need brakes. Unless the weight of the trailer exceeds 40% of the weight of the tow vehicle. It's also 3000lbs in my state and I have an enclosed snowmobile trailer with a gvwr of 2990. Imagine why they picked that number?Re: Maintenance chargers? Shadow Catcher wrote: I have an AGM good for months, however even a conventional deep cycle is good for the winter as long as it is fully charged and there are no vampire loads, in other words pull the negative terminal. What he said. Remove battery, charge, put in basement. In spring, charge (minimal amount needed), put back in camper.Re: Can't figure out scare lights Doug33 wrote: tbred wrote: Doug33 wrote: Can someone tell me what a "scare" light is? I've been RVing forever and have never heard that term. Very bright spotlight type lights meant to "scare" away would be intruders. We've never used ours either but I'm sure op would like to have everything work on a new tt. Is this the same as a yellow "porch" light? That's the only external light I have, other than the light on the hitch. No. We all have a porch light, but the scare light is an option for people who camp in ghettos.Re: Towing Capacity F-150 K Charles wrote: You said " I can tow long distances" tow rate, GVW and tongue weight have nothing to do with distance, eather you can or you can't. That's like saying if your car will run one mile, it will run 1,000,000 miles. Stresses accumulate over time and distance. If you're well under your limit, you can. If you're well over you limit, you can't. But if you're borderline, how far you plan on taking it can make all the difference in the world. I can push a car the length of my driveway, I can't push it across town. I can, however, easily pedal my bike across town.Re: bathroom light helpIf it's the typical white plastic light, the switches on those go bad. When I bought my tt, I had to replace 5 or 6 fixtures that didn't work. Testing showed bad switches. Got new ones from Amazon for about $7. You can pull the fixture down and using a meter, see if there is voltage going to the switch (when the wall switch is on).Re: Generator DB ratingsI've been an audiophile for over 30 years. Well known psychoacoustic studies show that a change of 3db is just noticeable by most people and a change of 10db is perceived as twice as loud. As far as the measurement being at rated load and if that constitutes wot, rated load is all that can be sustained over time. If it technically doesn't require wot, for all practical purposes,since that's as loud as it can sustain, it can be considered wot. Nobody is going to notice or care if it gets a couple db louder for the brief time it can hit max load.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Apr 19, 201944,027 Posts