All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsLippert electric leveling problemSorry for the long post. Hoping the details will help somebody diagnose with me. I have a 2016 Wildcat 5'er with Lippert Ground Control 2.0 electric leveling. I had what I believed was a rear jack motor going bad. It started sounding like it was struggling. I bought a spare motor and kept it in the trailer until I needed it. Finally on a camp trip the jack stopped working and I replaced the motor. Immediately after replacing the motor, I had all sorts of problems getting the rear and middle jacks to extend and retract. The auto-retract stopped working. I was able to manually work the rear to level the trailer, but the middle jacks were stuck about halfway extended. I called Lippert who tried to walk me through a "re-homing" of the system. We were unable to complete it. They had me plugging and unplugging the middle and rear jacks at the controller, trying to attach the middle jacks to the rear plugs so they could be manually retracted, and none of that worked. I was getting error messages that didn't make sense to Lippert on the phone. In the end, Lippert couldn't help me any longer. They told me I'd need to use the emergency method to retract the middles and get the system checked out. What I found while trying to get the middles retracted was that I could run 12 volts directly to the jack motors and they worked perfectly. That's how I got everything retracted. I tested the motor that I thought had been bad and that I had just replaced, and that one worked too. So all motors are good. Only explanation now (I think...) is that they are not getting 12 volts from the controller. I am thinking that it must be the controller has gone bad. It seems like there's really only 4 parts to the electronics in this system: keypad, controller, motor, wiring. I am getting a solid 12.6 volts to the controller. Assuming there's been no break in wiring and that there's no logic in the keypad, then I'm thinking it must be the controller. Does anybody think it could be something else? Is there any logic in the keypad? I'm assuming that it's a dumb keypad and just a way to interact with the controller. Controller appears to be super easy to replace. 6 plugs, two battery leads, and mount it properly. Seems like the biggest hassle would just be rehoming or calibration or whatever process you need to do after that. Am I wrong about any of this? Any help much appreciated.Re: Seeking options to carry dirt bike on back of 5'er RedRocket204 wrote: Other option would to put a hitch on the front of your truck and carry the dual-sport there. I would probably choose this route. If you continue on with the idea in your first post, you may want to contact the 5th manufacturer and make sure they are OK with the added weight on the frame at the end of the trailer. That extra 100 lbs gets magnified with the bouncing that will occur back there. Great suggestion. I actually do have a Class III hitch on the front of my truck and I use it for a bicycle rack. For it to be practical though I had to find a 10" drop to get the bicycles low enough so that they are out of my field of vision (10" drop was no problem for me because the truck sits on 20" tires and rides a little tall). In California I can only extend 36" past the front bumper to be legal. If you have done what you are describing and have found a way to pull the load as close as possible into the front of the truck I would like to know what it is. My 10" drop pushes the bike rack out about 12" which makes me close to illegal and I would definitely be illegal with a M/C carrier. I'd have to figure out how to get it closer to the truck and haven't ever seen a drop that went straight down and not out.Re: Seeking options to carry dirt bike on back of 5'er valhalla360 wrote: Google swivel wheel trailer. Puts a lot less stress on the frame attachments and no problem backing into spots with it attached. It's a gray area if it qualifies as double towing but responses in the past suggest no one is suggesting they have been pulled over for double towing. I have seen those. I'm in California have gotten an opinion from CHP that it's doubles and here I need a commercial class A for that. I'd also be dangerously close to being over the CA 65 foot max length with my Ram 3500 and the 5'er. Thanks for the suggestion. It's a good idea just not worth the risk or the hassle though I think.Seeking options to carry dirt bike on back of 5'erHave a 2016 Wildcat 313RE. 37' overall length with a pretty accessible frame underneath. Coach came standard with a folding cargo platform that supports 250 pounds in the rear. Platform folds up when not in use but when lowered it supports those 250 pounds pretty well behind the rear bumper. That platform is welded to the frame, which doesn't mean much but it at least tells me that the frame is designed to carry some weight back there. I want to carry a 250 dual sport bike weighing in the 275-300 pound range. One obvious solution is to have a Class III hitch welded to the frame extending below the bumper in such a way that it could be used in lieu of the platform. Somebody could then use a hitch mount motorcycle carrier. Probably couldn't use the M/C carrier and the platform at the same time because the bike would be back too far, but with the M/C carrier in use the frame would theoretically be carrying about the same weight capacity as the platform (+75-100 pounds) in roughly the same way. At least that's the way I'm seeing it in my head. I'm carrying slightly more weight than was intended, but I'm doing so in roughly the same method. So long as the hitch is properly engineered and welded I'm thinking it should be easy. 100 pounds can't make a much a difference to the frame at that point. Biggest liability is movement and motion back there. Anybody have a better idea or think I'm seeing this wrong?Portable Sat TV: Winegard Carryout G2+ Or King Quest VQ4100?Have DirecTV at home and am going the route of adding an SD receiver for $7 a month that I can use in my 5'er. Wondering what people think of the Carryout G2+ versus the King Quest. I like that the King unit is about $150 cheaper off the shelf but it's not a price decision for me. I'm happy to pay more for a better unit if there's a quality difference. Any opinions?Looking for opinions, good or bad, on Forest River WildcatsMy wife and I are getting very close to buying a gently used 2013 Forest River Wildcat Maxx 313RE. I think back east they are called Wildcat and out west here they are called Wildcat Maxx, but I think that basically the line is the same. Would love to hear about anybody's experiences, good or bad, with the quality of the trailer, fit & finish, recurring problems, anything at all. Thanks in advance for any input! --Mike in Sacramento, CARe: Seeking RV park recommendation on I-5 in OregonValley of the Rogue SP looks perfect. Thanks for the recommendation!Seeking RV park recommendation on I-5 in OregonGoing to be traveling back and forth between Sacramento, CA and Waldport, OR (on the coast) and making it a two-day trip each way. Traveling I-5 between Sacramento and Eugene, then cutting over to Florence before going up the coast to Waldport. I have never driven north of Ashland on I-5, but it seems like someplace between Ashland and Eugene would be a good place to stop for the night. Am pulling a 27 foot travel trailer and looking for an RV park that's not out of the way and has full hookups, hopefully someplace scenic maybe on a river. Any suggestions much appreciated!
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