DrivingMissDais
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A&E slide topper end cap repair
The aluminum end caps on my slide toppers had badly worn the axle hole into an oblong shape. Moving the slides in or out was accompanied with a clunking sound. Don't know how long it would be before some type of catastrophic event so I decided to replace them. I could not find the end caps for sale online except as part of the complete spring assembly. They cost $95 each, I had four needing replacement. Cost for parts would be in excess of $400 with tax and shipping. I decided to repair mine instead, total cost for all four=$12. I made an external steel bushing using thick washers and attached them with drill screws. I spent more time making the bushings than I did installing them.1.3KViews0likes1CommentRe: myrtle beach travel park
My qualifications for my reply, Northern Delaware is my homeplace and I live in Myrtle Beach. I have driven back and forth many times. My first recommendation is avoid I-95. For a more enjoyable passage take the morning Cape May-Lewes Ferry. Get to route 13 south, there are several ways, don't know when you are going, if summer it may be best to avoid the beach towns. First overnight at the southern tip of the Virginia Peninsula, several campgrounds in the area. Day two take the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel south to Norfolk, which will be the only big city you pass thru on this route. Follow freeway thru city to Highway 17. This is the same rt 17 that passes thru Myrtle Beach, it is a nice easy mostly four lane road with bypasses around all the old bottleneck towns. There is no white knuckle driving like on I-95. Many places to overnight between here and MB. You didn't ask about RV park recommendations in MB, but the crowd has been offering their favorites. The Grand Strand is a big place and traffic can get hectic in the summer so I would suggest staying in one of the parks closest to your daughters wedding. If you can word that in another query with the name or address of the wedding place I can assure you will get many suggestions. I may even let you in on the best kept secret in MB.303Views0likes0CommentsRe: Furnace Fan won't turn off, 2004 Alpha 40'
dougrainer wrote: DrivingMissDaisy wrote: Your heater has entered "lock out" mode. this happens when during the start sequence, a flame is not established in 7 seconds. The blower will run until the thermostat is cycled off. Most common cause is flame sensor, try cleaning and adjusting first, then replace if necessary, it is not an expensive part. True for OLDER furnaces. Depending on his year and model furnace, he probably has the current control board that shuts the Fan OFF when the flame sequence fails. The models that have this have the Fan relay ON the Ignition module. Doug Ok, then it looks like it would be a faulty control board, probably a stuck relay. The only other thing that would run fan continuously would be a faulty on/auto fan switch in the thermostat and that's a long shot, I've never heard of that happening.561Views0likes0CommentsRe: Furnace Fan won't turn off, 2004 Alpha 40'
Your heater has entered "lock out" mode. this happens when during the start sequence, a flame is not established in 7 seconds. The blower will run until the thermostat is cycled off. Most common cause is flame sensor, try cleaning and adjusting first, then replace if necessary, it is not an expensive part.561Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winnebago Adventurer Roof issues
Sorry about the lag in responding, I'm traveling. RE: glued hood skin? I'm not speaking of the outside skin, the hinges had hold the hood on are glued to the cap. There are no structural fasteners e.g. screws, bolts or rivets. So was the headlight assembly, glued to the cap. I've thru bolted them with stainless Steel bolts. fenders that came loose from failed pressure sensitive tape have been reattached with drill screws, painted to match body color. I know it's human nature to speak kindly something you've spent big bucks purchasing, but I speak the truth, there's a lot of stuff shoddily attached to these things.409Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winnebago Adventurer Roof issues
This is in reference to your statement that automotive manufacturers commonly use adhesives. I worked in an auto assembly plant for 37 years and they do not glue anything structural together. The only thing I can think of that is attached with pressure sensitive tape is emblems and door side molding. My winnie has headlight assemblies, fenders, hood hinges, the roof, front grill and who knows what else glued on. The is no comparison between auto engineering and that of an RV. Hikerdogs wrote: DrivingMissDaisy wrote: I have a 2000 Winnebago Adventurer and about two years ago the fiberglass roof was sucked out of the aluminum channel by a combination of cross wind and passing tractor trailer. Drivers side front to back roof peeled up and all the foam insulation sucked out. I duct taped it together and drove home, I reinserted the fiberglass and glued secured it with urethane caulk/adhesive. Here's the kicker, I swear, there was never any adhesive in the roof to aluminum track. Both sides of the motorhome were like that. I assumed Winnebago left it loose so it could move when the motorhome flexed. Wheel wells attached with pressure sensitive tape, most of the end cap accessories glued on with epoxy, how could we expect anything remotely resembling quality construction! It sounds like you bought the motorhome used, and it hadn't been properly maintained by the previous owner. I'm not surprised caulking was missing if it hadn't been inspected in over 14 years. Over the years there have been complaints about the Winnebago roof design. In almost all cases the units were purchased used with no knowledge of the previous owners maintenance history. In all cases the owners did not seem to be aware of the need to complete the maintenance procedure and in fact had never inspected or replaced any caulking during their time of ownership. The OP has a coach 12 model years old and again has no history as to whether or not the maintenance procedure was ever performed, and was not even aware that it should be performed. In the lifetime of the coach if the owners had followed the Winnebago recommendation it should have been performed 24 times. Even performing the inspection and maintenance procedure on an annual basis it has missed 12 maintenance cycles. It's unfortunate that the OP has had a problem, and even more unfortunate that the insurance company exacerbated the problem by telling them it was OK to drive the unit and is now denying the claim using an excuse like you didn't talk to the right person. In my opinion the person they were directed to call was a representative of the insurance company regardless of whether they contracted by, or employed by the company. It is the inaccurate information provided by the insurance companies representative that turned a minor problem into a major one. I would agree with those that suggested contacting the state insurance commissioner. We had a problem with bad advise given by an insurance company representative several years ago. We wrote the state insurance commissioner a letter with dates and times of contact, and the advise given by the representative. We called the insurance agent and he suggested we send him a copy and hold off sending it to the insurance commissioner until we heard back from him. Long story short our agent presented the letter to the insurance company president. The president agreed with our assessment of the situation and covered the problem. Since the situation was resolved we never sent the letter to the insurance commissioner. As for the use of adhesives to secure plastic or fiberglass panes to steel, aluminum or plastic substrates, it's a common practice for almost all automobile manufacturers. It's been in use since the late 1980's and has proved to be an excellent practice. There are even adhesives specially made for the job. An example would be SEM Weld Bond 39537 Adhesive. It's used at the OEM level and by body shops. While it is a proven method of securing panels I do agree that Winnebago could improve their implementation procedures.407Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winnebago Adventurer Roof issues
747Driver wrote: Just because you don't see any chalk in the slot, does not mean it was never there. My 2003 Adventurer was checked yearly and was a little dry last year, but still had adhesion. Climbed up there in August, 3/4 of it was gone. Real scary. Removed the other 1/4 and resealed, good to go now. I find it very had to believe that in over 60 linear feet of roof to track joint I would find no evidence of previous sealant. I stand by my premise that there was never any type of sealer or adhesive on the roof joint on my rig.256Views0likes0CommentsRe: Winnebago Adventurer Roof issues
I have a 2000 Winnebago Adventurer and about two years ago the fiberglass roof was sucked out of the aluminum channel by a combination of cross wind and passing tractor trailer. Drivers side front to back roof peeled up and all the foam insulation sucked out. I duct taped it together and drove home, I reinserted the fiberglass and glued secured it with urethane caulk/adhesive. Here's the kicker, I swear, there was never any adhesive in the roof to aluminum track. Both sides of the motorhome were like that. I assumed Winnebago left it loose so it could move when the motorhome flexed. Wheel wells attached with pressure sensitive tape, most of the end cap accessories glued on with epoxy, how could we expect anything remotely resembling quality construction!256Views0likes0CommentsRe: Electrical surge protector - Whole house type?
I caused a lot of the ranting on this thread by posting a picture of my SQ D surge suppressor which I mounted in my service bay. I have been reading all the replies but refrained from re-posting any response partly because it was obvious one of the writers was not going to listen to anyone but himself. However, because no one else has mentioned this, I must. This is in reference to my system supposedly being ineffective largely because it is not used at the power post, which the writer assumes is grounded via a grounding rod. I bet the majority of campground power posts have their EGC via a fourth wire going back to the distribution panel and do not have a ground rod, but if you want to believe every power post has an earth ground rod and you have superior protection because you have some fancy store bought system plugged into it, well y'all just keep on believing it.197Views0likes0CommentsRe: Electrical surge protector - Whole house type?
Here's what I use to protect my rig. Square D Model QO2175SB (22,500 amp max surge capacity, 150 volt VAC line to grd, 930 joules) Current price at HD is $63.41 This is first line of defense, 2nd is a Hughes auto transformer. The SQD surge suppressor has no under voltage protection but the auto transformer will tell me if voltage is low by going into boost mode. I tried to include a picture of my installation but all I am seeing is the word (Image) URL is to a public Flickr account, can anyone see it? https://www.flickr.com/photos/123660512@N05/29804595212/in/album-72157670997366063/123Views0likes0Comments
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