All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. The Professor noted wrote: FYI, both Sears and Lowes sell a drill adapter that is used to start their weedwackers. They sell for about $10.00 and are located near their weedwackers (string trimmers). These adapters allow for speed overrun when the motor starts. Here is a link to Lowe's webpage for this adapter Lowes link JerryK Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Boone, What you are referring to are "Top Tier Gasolines". There are several brands that meet the requirements and are qualified Top Tier gasolines. Go here for more information on Top Tier gasolines: http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html# or Click here for Top Tier info JerryK byates wrote: Cox89XJ wrote: The repair guy also said he would use the highest grade gasoline because it is a lot cleaner than regulator. Your repair person is correct to a degree. Some brands of gasoline do contain a higher amount of cleaning additives in their premium brand vs their regular brand. Shell V-Power gasoline is one that comes to mind. In lower compression engines, it is difficult to ascertain any difference in performance between the various octane levels of the fuel used. All grades of gasoline contain roughly the same amount of energy. The amount of carbon residual is a factor of the engine design, engine condition, and the quality of the gasoline and its additives. If you have a lower compression engine and want the additional cleaning capability found in some brands’ higher octane gasoline and willing to pay the difference, the only cost is to your wallet, not your engine. Boone Yates. Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Would aviation gasoline from an airport location meet your small engine needs? JerryK professor95 wrote: scottz wrote: For me it is a choice between 87/89 octane gasoline with up to 10% ethanol or 92 octane without ethanol. I chose to go with the higher octane non-oxygenated gas even though the Champion manual says not to use high ethanol gas. Sorry, I had to say it! In your situation, I agree. I too would avoid the ethanol fuel if I could buy "straight" gas. I wish we had that choice where I live! It all has 10% ethanol in this part of Virginia - 87, 89 and 93 octane. Brands in the Richmond Metro area are all "oxygenated". I can drive a few miles from my house into King William County and purchase non-oxygenated fuel - but still with ethanol. I hate ethanol based fuel and believe it was a dumb move. But, grain farmers like it and the politicians "think" they are helping reduce the oil demand and make the environment cleaner. In the mean time we burn foreign oil to distill ethanol and apply chemical fertilizers to the corn fields that run off and pollute our waterways. Oh, and the fertilizers are from foreign oil too. Since ethanol fuel has fewer BTU's per gallon we burn more for a given mileage making the "clean air" myth another false concept. Ethanol fuel does not stay stable as long - It can really mess up a small engine or boat motor if it sits for a couple of months. - you got me on my high horse with ethanol. Sorry. Anyone that can do elementary school math and science can easily see the numbers do not add up. Re: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? DeadeyeLefty wrote: Hey Lt Dan, what's that white plastic piece to the right of the stereo ? Mine had one too but I never found anything in the MH that mounts there. The white plastic piece is for those swing/swivel drink holders that you will usually find in boats. The wire drink holder clips into the white plastic piece you see on the dashboard. Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. MrWizard wrote: try the carb cleaner and some 'sea foam' in the gas tank always run the carb dry, and if your going to store it with fuel in the tank use 'sea foam' or some 'stabil' in the gas Running the carb dry was what I always tried to do for the first five years. I would keep it running until it ran out of gas and then restart it and jiggle the choke and throttle until I completely ran it dry. Yet every year I would have to take the carb apart on my snowblower and clean it to get it to run without pulsing. And now for the last 25 years I just leave gas in the tank and put Stabil in it. And I run the engine and leave Stabilized gas in the carb. At the beginning of the next season the motor starts and runs just fine. My theory on why this works is because running the carb dry never really runs the carb completely dry. And the gas that is left will eventually evaporate and leave residue. If the tank is left with stabilized gas in it the carb stays wet and doesn't leave any residue. I know it flies in the face of what we have been told by the experts but it seems to work with my lawnmowers, snowblower and boat. JerryKRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. tjflyer2003 wrote: Any suggestions on where to find and hr. meter?...Jerry One place to check might be EBAY. Go there and do a search on "hour meter 120" JerryKRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. joelabq wrote: Katdaddy wrote: Ok folks I need opinions from those of you who are much smarter than me. I have a wild notion for an enclosure to help with the noise. I was wondering if an enclosure with a chimney built into the top would be feasible? I hit on this while tending a fire in my fireplace at home. If I open a window while the fireplace is lit a considerable breeze comes through the open window. So my idea/question is; if a chimney is built into top of enclosure and a gap is left at the bottom will the chimney draw sufficient, if any air through the gap at the bottom to help it stay cool? Also for consideration is whether or not the gap will allow too much sound to escape busting the whole idea? I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this. I think there is way to much heat load for convection to work while maintaining sound abatement. The enclosure I'm working on I've noticed a large increase in sound if I increase the gap at the bottom. I get around 3dbA from just 3/4" rise on either side. With a ~ 5000 CFM 12v fan running, I can keep the temp probe near the muffler (touching the Gen head) around 170F (with no gap at the bottom of the box. With a 3/4" gap, I keep it around 134F. With no fan and a gap, I hit 196F at the same spot, and if I take away the gap I noticed no real difference in temperature. I tested all these yesterday eve @ around 50F last night, so I am sure these will climb some in higher ambient. Now, Mind you this is with a baffed vent for th fan on top, which does keep "line of sight" out of the picture. I don't believe I could obtain as great of noise control without that, and I think a "chimney" would let a ton of noise out - only way I could see would be a tall/large/bulkly chimney that would make for difficulty in transport. With that said, if it can be done, I would love to see it. On a side note: So far with a temp probe on the cylinder head, normal temps around around 120-125F no load. With the enclosure/fan/and circulation using a gap at the bottom, 137F. I honestly thing heat increase in the enclosure isn't going to effect the engine all that much, even without a gap and no fan running the temps seems to peak out around 160F at the head. I am more concerned about the generator/wiring. I am really thinking of moving the muffler out of the box. Likewise, I think the Gap at the bottom idea lacks alot of the sound control for my taste. I need to figure out a better solution. I think you're on the right track with your thoughts of moving the muffler outside the box. Also, in all the research I've done on the internet on noise abatement the one thing I keep seeing over and over is "Sound doesn't like to travel around corners but air does." Good luck, JerryKRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. tonyclifton wrote: Howdy again folks! I have fired up the C46540 twice now. Tonight I made sure my "RV plug into a duplex box via 10/3 SO cable" pigtail worked, which it did. After powering up a few things I shut off the gas supply to run the carb empty. I did this since I don't know how long until I run it again. I do have fuel stabilizer in it but still thought this was a good idea. Is it OK on the engine? The engine ran a bit, then began like a full minute of bogging down and recovering. Just seemed to go on too long. Made me wonder if it was more detrimental than letting the gas stay in the carbs. I just didn't want it to dry out and gum things up. Tony, I know I'm going to start a storm but here goes, 28 years ago I bought an 8hp Ariens Snowblower and for the first 5 years I would shut off the fuel line and let it use the gas in the carb and stall out when it was gone. And at the end of the season I would do the same thing and drain the fuel tank. Yet each fall I would have to take the carb apart and clean the float bowl and jets to get the varnish off, otherwise the engine would speedup and slowdown under load. At some point I decided it was useless to drain the carb after each use and at the end of the season, so instead for the last 23 years I just put Stabil in the gas tank, leave the shutoff valve open and let it sit during the off season with a fairly full fuel tank. And I am glad to report that I only need to clean the carb every 7 or 8 years now. My theory is that since the carb bowl and float, etc. are kept wet (with gasoline) there are no surfaces for the gasoline to dry out on or form varnish on. I think the Stabil helps too. I also do the same with my lawnmower. Jerry PS. For the 28 year old $50 K-mart Ryan weedwacker, I just leave it hanging on the wall of the garage year around.(with the gas/oil mix in the fuel tank)Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.For a test load you guys might want to consider using something that stays on for a while and heats up (uses more watts) like an iron, hair dryer, toaster, electric space heater, etc. They will provide a load that is more consistant with their nameplate spec and also won't have the startup surge requirement that a motor has. Just some thoughts. JerryKRe: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote: How many of you take your old beasts on trips of 150+ miles? I have always limeted mine to about 1 hour long trips. We take our 1970 Travco from Michigan to Florida and back every winter. 1220 miles, one-way.