PatJ
Explorer II
Joined 21 years ago
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Re: Mounting a small amplifier under cabinet?
3M VHB tape holds the structure together in the world's tallest hotel, the Burj Al Arab in Dubai, UAE which has been standing since 1999. It holds the aluminum exterior skin on Walt Disney's concert hall in LA. Heat from an RV will not be an issue. Strength over time (at least to 25 yrs) will not be an issue. Follow the instructions and enjoy.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Mounting a small amplifier under cabinet?
Yes, high quality industrial double-sided table like 3M VHB is available thick, like 1/4" or so. That will do what you want and last forever doing it. Another option is high-quality industrial Velcro which may even be better in this case. Go to Grainger or Fastenal, not Hobby Lobby or Wal-Mart, and tell them what you want. It's available and will do what you need for this.1.2KViews0likes5CommentsRe: 2013 Chevy 1500 5.3 Anyone Tow with this?
Chevy has 50 million possible option combinations for 1/2t trucks (just a slight exaggeration.) Those options combined with your GVWR and GCWR decide what you can tow safely and reliably without drama. That is all listed on labels in your glovebox and doorjamb. Check the labels and your owner's manual and that will most likely answer your questions. Without knowing that info, we are all just guessing. You may have huge brakes, 4.56 axles, and auxiliary coolers that can easily handle a 12k# trailer; or you may have a light-duty turd running empty 500# below its GVWR that is at its limit with a full ice chest in the bed. We are all just guessing without that info. BLT2ski is 100% correct. Just because you don't have a factory trailer brake controller doesn't mean you don't have the factory wiring for one. I've owned six GMT400-GMT900 and every single one came pre-wired. Again it's in the RPO codes on the label. If the wiring is there it is essentially plug-and-play to install one and get it working, and a hard wire controller will be cheaper and work better than wireless. Good luck.3.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Who misses the Tow Vehicle discussions?
I apologize in advance for my upcoming rant. I respectfully disagree with Mntundrarat about the number of new trailers being the cause of this forums decline. While I'm not in the market I still go to all the RV shows and they are nearly all trailers. I see only a few motorhomes. It's crazy how many people are daily driving a $100k 12k pound (empty) crew cab 4x4 diesel back and forth to work or to drop the kids off at school. Trailers and tow rigs are everywhere. In the past 5-10 years I believe there are more not less. The market for this forum (in its old form) is there. The reason people are leaving this forum is because the format is terrible. In my opinion. The gas vs diesel; Ford vs Chevy; bumper pull vs 5th; Honda vs Yamaha; dually vs 19.5"; GMRS vs Ham; V10 vs Godzilla; Goodyear vs Michelin; lithium vs lead acid; and all the other arguments are as common as ever. The potential for the lively discussion that entertained us all for so many years is still there. The pool of intelligent, educated, experienced RVers willing to volunteer their time and help a stranger online or debate A vs B is still there. Yet somehow this forum withers away by the day. The operators of this forum took something that worked very well and was popular and useful and entertaining; and changed it to something that works very poorly and is bleeding users. There are a few of us old timers hanging on because of our past positive experience but I can't imagine new people realizing value of the forum and joining like I did nearly 20 years ago. I joined around 2005 (I think) and at that time I had a truck camper. I then went to a used class C and eventually to a brand new off-the-showroom-floor Thor ("Freedom Elite") Class C from Camping World (my understanding is they are related to Good Sam.) My current RV will not be my last. Like many of us, I spend big $ every year on RV gadgets. I AM Good Sam's target audience. I AM the type of consumer Good Sam should want to keep engaged. Instead, as a reward for my past contributions to RV.net and being a loyal customer of Good Sam, I was forced to jump through stupid hoops to reactivate/maintain my existing functional password and account to use the forum. And their stupid hoops did not work correctly which was very frustrating. Once I was through that frustration I'm back to this forum which is just a shell of the old RV.net experience. Again in my experience. The new forum does automatically hyperlink products which I'm sure is helpful for those that have never heard of Google. I apologize again for my rant. But yes I miss the old forum. This is not the same.2KViews0likes1CommentRe: What is the lowest voltage you have seen?
I've seen low 90s; 90, 91, 92 on a hot day. To the point my EMS disconnects me. Unacceptable IMO when you are paying for a hookup site. I installed a Hughes autoformer, hardwired into the storage compartment so it's out of sight as I've learned many campgrounds do not allow autoformers. It's unfortunate campgrounds cover for their insufficient wiring with a rule to restrict people from using the power they paid for, rather than actually fix the issue. It was a few years ago, but I'm about $600 total into the autoformer plus the materials needed to hardwire it, worth every penny and highly recommended.600Views0likes0CommentsRe: Generator dB rating
Honda 2000 - 57db Champion 2000- 53 db How can the Honda be quieter with a higher db rating? I own a pair of Honda 2000s. My sister owns a pair of Champions. The Champions are great but no contest, the Hondas are quieter. Quieter at idle, quieter at mid load, quieter at full load. Quieter by far and noticeable. My Hondas are 15 years old and have around 500 hours on them. Anyone that says they are close in volume to the Champions is lying or deaf (in my opinion.) Again nothing against the Champions because they seem to be very reliable and good bang for the buck, but they are not quieter or even as quiet or even close to the Hondas.856Views0likes0Comments- 855Views0likes0Comments
Re: Tire Pressure?
My personal opinion you have two good options: 1) Weigh each corner fully loaded for a trip and inflate accordingly per the tire manufacturer's inflation tables (personally I add 5psi as was previously mentioned.) 2) Inflate to max, which is 80 psi for 16" LRE tires. I use option 1 which lined up with the "yellow tag," then added 5 psi for my own neurosis. I use option 2 when I am towing with no ill effects. When in doubt, always go with the higher pressure. For LRE tires you can't go wrong with 80 psi all around (ride/handling may be affected, but load safety will not.) Again my opinion2KViews0likes0Comments
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