marpel
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Re: Re-coating Wheels
Thanks to everyone for the replies. Funny, I thought the aluminum alloy wheels (that look like aluminum, not coloured) were just clear-coated and not powder coated. Thought powder-coating was an actual color. And as I reside in the Pacific Southwest, of Canada, I am adjacent to the PNW, and although we do not, to my knowledge, have LesSchwab in Canada, for $35 each it might be worth a trip across the line. I will be looking into this.946Views0likes0CommentsRe-coating Wheels
Trailer wheels (al alloy) are starting to look a little rough. It appears the clear coat is deteriorating. For my own curiosity, I did some quick online research on steel as opposed to aluminum replacements as well as re-coating the aluminum clear coat. Obviously, the differences between replacing and re-coating are mainly cost and process/labour. Easier to just buy new rims (higher cost) but I am considering re-coating (less cost, don't like the idea of tossing a still-working product for the sake of a new prettier one, but more labour/technique). The marketers of a (re)coating product downplay the process involved and don't really address some of the issues. So, my questions - Does anyone have any experience with re-coating al alloy rims (or any al products for that matter)? Does the process require doing the entire rim (ie can you just do the visible surfaces)? And how does the re-coated surface bear up compared to factory application? At the very least, it seems the process is rather labour intensive and it is recommended the old coating is sanded off, but is the final product worth it? And are there reasonably cheap commercial places that provide this service (although I suspect the total cost of that may be close to just buying 4 new wheels)? As the trailer will not be used until next year, and I have the al wheels and good tires removed (sitting on a set of older tires and steel wheels for the winter), the al alloy rims are available for me to work on through the winter months. Any input appreciated. Marv1.5KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Integrated rear view camera
Okay, I found the item, and was partially right and partially wrong. This one is a wireless system, where the camera is placed at the rear of the trailer and the receiving unit is placed in the cab, and hooked up via a port under the dash to the OEM Infotainment centre. The wiring part is related to the two side cameras, which affix to the side mirrors and cables are run through the door and under/behind the dash. It was my intention to only use one of these two cameras and run it to the grill area for face in parking. - Intellihaul 2.0 Trailering Camera Systems (from Echomaster) for 2020+ HDs Part #19421451. - and Wireless Trailer Camera Part #19421453. - and Front Camera Part #19421452. Details and Part #s are a few months old, so may not be current.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Integrated rear view camera
JDsdogs, Shortly after I bought my '22 Sierra SLE 2500HD, I searched out a camera (system) for the rear of our trailer. I did locate one that I was going to purchase, but due to circumstance, did not. At the moment, I can't recall full details, but wrote down a bunch of stuff, so I will see if I can find the details. As I researched a lot of products at that time, I can't honestly recall if it is the OEM auxiliary camera or an aftermarket item. Not sure of your trim level, but if you have at least the SLE, this item should work on your vehicle. It does require, however, that you place the camera, run the cable (60 feet if I recall), to the cab, including prying up some trim and routing to an inlet just below the head unit (on my previous truck, I replaced the head unit with an aftermarket unit and had to route and pry trim and dash, so I am conversant in this - actually did it a couple times). The image plays on the OEM screen. Marv1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Denver and surrounding areas
We have stayed at three locations over the years in the greater Denver area: - Cherry Creek State Park, nice place, central location (way more central than the other two locations), is popular so can be booked up fairly quickly. Not sure if there is a time limit but suspect a couple weeks would be okay. - Denver East/Strasburg KOA, located about 25 minutes east from greater Denver/Aurora on hwy 70, nice place but not real close to Denver related amenities/activities. - Dakota Ridge RV Park, very nice place with resort-like facilities, west of Denver on hwy 70. Have been to each place at least a few times and can recommend either but Dakota Ridge would be my top choice, although a bit more expensive than the others. Because Denver has relatively few local, decent rv places, it would be a good idea to book well in advance. There are a couple others, but of less quality, in my opinion. Marv1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Air Conditioner
Thought I would post an update. Decided to try the cheap, easy fix that I watched on a couple YT videos. I built a diverter (upside down V) from some pieces of solid insulation, completely covered with silver foil tape. After sealing all possible air leaks in both bays (intake and cold air supply) with the same tape, I secured the diverter in the cold air bay. This effectively blocked the cold air straight dump, and diverted cold air to the two ceiling ducts. During measurements and design, I ensured optimum (from a layman's perspective) air flow to these ducts. Once done, although we lost the straight dump, discovered the noise had dropped considerably and the cold air coming from the remote vents was noticeably greater. In fact, funny thing, by doing this I discovered we had a 4th a/c vent in the bathroom which, up until now, was so low/no volume, we had not even realized it was there. Go figure. Total cost $10. Total time, less than a day.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Air Conditioner
Thanks to everyone for the replies. Interested in the Wackoproducts item so took a look at their site (thanks for the link). Funny thing, they promise an 8-10 decibel reduction in noise (although initially, on the main page, they only promise a noise reduction, one has to hunt a bit for the 8-10), however, they also link an installation and review video in which the guy uses both a decibel meter and a db app on his cell phone. Both show a before/after comparison of about 2 decibel difference. 2 db is quite a bit different than 8-10. As we have Dometic ducted a/c, will have to give this product further thought. Marv1.1KViews0likes0CommentsAir Conditioner
Sitting in the trailer (smallish with single AC unit), after a long days drive, with ac on, as it is a gazillion degrees outside, and am wondering - why are the RV ACs so darn loud? I was up on the roof the other day, cleaning it and from what I can see, the only moving part(s) is the fan, so what makes the noise. It is like sitting next to a jet engine. And do they not make them so they can be run with a little less output? Ours is either on full blast or not at all (we can close one or all of the three outlets but that does not reduce the output of the unit, itself). I have been in houses where they have a, somewhat, whisper quiet built-in (the smallish kind that sit in an exterior wall,), and our fridge keeps things cool without the jet engine, so why can’t they do the same for a rooftop? Marv2.7KViews0likes18CommentsRe: Removing the cabinet above the bed in a cougar 5th
Don’t know what you mean by “replacing” and if that means full removal, but I had to remove the cabinets from the nose of our trailer (not 5th wheel) and it turned out to be a major operation. The cabinets were installed prior to the exterior skin, hence they were screwed in from the outside, and the screw heads were covered by the skin. It was not a simple matter of unscrewing from the inside of the trailer. Each screw had to be cut with a sawsall. Don’t know if yours is the same. And I noticed your Shawnigan Lake signature. The wife’s uncle has had a place at the lake since about the 60s I think and a few years back bought the property next door as well. Nice area. Marv229Views0likes0CommentsRe: Aftermarket parts
Thanks for the replies. I understand the patent thing as well as some of the other points posted. Having said that, I still don't understand why they all can't sit down in the same room and come to an agreement on things like the size of the opening and the number of and locations of the screw holes. Keep your specific design but at least make it so common products can easily be found and replaced. Anyway, off in the morning for a 5000 km trip.541Views0likes0Comments
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