All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Norcold refrigerator "NO FL" code, propane burns fineAgreeing with Jim@HiTek, I just had the same issue on my Norcold N841. Detected the resistance on the electrode to be about 1.5? but quickly dropped to ~0.1? as the multimeter applied testing voltage. Cleaned and now that number stayed ~0.5?. Would guess that the actual resistances vary a bit based on conditions, but the moral of the story is that I fixed it by removing and cleaning the electrode tip and all of the connectors of the spark/sense electrode. Happy to avoid replacing the power board.Re: Headlights flickering when generator is runningThanks gang, sorry for lack of info. I have a 1999 Jayco Eagle 232U on a 1999 E350 chassis, V10 Triton. No, no recent re-wiring. Only that brief spark between the isolater and the dipstick. Genset is up front. Didn't notice the dash voltmeter (admittedly, I was panicking about going down a hard road with no headlights), but I did notice that the dash lights themselves were also impacted, so this isn't a bus-specifc problem, but rather one affecting a larger portion of the chassis 12v system.Headlights flickering when generator is runningSymptoms: We were traveling down the road the other day, and we decided to start the generator to use the microwave while in motion. Less than a minute later, the vehicles headlights went dim, then out, then dim (I held the high-beams on for emergency lighting). Eventually, we shut the generator off and the problem went away. We simply can’t figure out why! We have a a bit of an odd AC electrical arrangement in the coach. We have a two automatic transfer switches; 1st supplies coach power between two sources: shore power and generator. This is the usual switch most coaches have. The second converter supplies convenience outlets between two sources: an onboard inverter and the output of the 1st transfer switch. This allows the inverter to supply outlets in the coach without the risk accidentally trying to run big appliances from the inverter. But this issue, realistically, would be on the 12v side of things. I don’t know much about the isolator/solenoid setup on this RV. I know I’ve accidentally sparked the bottom terminal from the isolator when changing the oil (dipsticks are quite conductive, FYI). However, even if this part was damaged, it would presumably either fail closed or fail open. If it was closed (coach battery and chassis battery were in line, expected when the engine is running), then converter would be simultaneous trying to charge both batteries. But, it would be the only way that AC activities could interfere with the 12v system, as least as far as I can imagine. I don’t see a problem with this, but if something (especially during the aforementioned shorting incident) causes a bad ground somewhere, that could conceivably be the root cause. Can the community give me some ideas of things to check/test to pinpoint this issue?