mikehoss
Explorer
Joined 13 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Electric Tongue Jack goes down, but not up
I did 1995brave's test -- blocked up the tongue and was able to get the jack off the ground. Up and down was no problem in the air, but when the jack hit the ground, same-old-same-old. So today I'm going to get a new battery. Thanks everyone!1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Electric Tongue Jack goes down, but not up
IB853347201 wrote: I would suspect the battery as the issue. The jack pulls amps to work especially when lifting the trailer. The onboard 12 volt converter when on shore power often does not put out what's required and the battery reserve capacity fills the gap. Have you recently checked the water level in the battery? do you have a load tester to check the battery's condition? My battery charger has a load tester on it. I'll try that. But it was good at the beginning of the season with low use. But, yeah, we are at the beginning of the end of it's life. I like 1995brave's test as well... I may try that first. My indication that it's the jack is that it's really hard to turn up (but my muscles may have the same problem that the motor on the jack does -- takes more power to move up).1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Electric Tongue Jack goes down, but not up
1995brave wrote: Can you block the tongue up so you can run the jack up and down? If the jack still has issues going up then the problem is with the jack and not your battery. When was the last time the jack was cleaned and greased? That's a good test. I've never greased it (never thought about it) Can I grease it with Li Grease or do you have another recommendation?1.1KViews0likes0CommentsElectric Tongue Jack goes down, but not up
Just got back from our latest trip. The jack was fine hooking up and setting up on site, but yesterday when we got ready to leave, the jack didn't want to go up. Going down was no problem but moving it up was very slow. And the motor sounded like the it was working hard. I figured it was an electrical problem. The jack is hooked directly off the battery, so if the battery isn't charged, it will not work. The leads on the battery were a bit corroded so I brushed them the best I could. Hooked up the brake cable to my tow vehicle to see if I could get a few more amps. I got very few more but I did get it up on the hitch. I accounted this for dirty leads not letting the battery charge. When I got home, I plugged the trailer in, cleaned the leads and left the camper be connected to the vehicle for a while. I was able to get the hitch off of the vehicle, but not more than that. Well, the vehicle was off but I really couldn't enough lift to get the trailer leveled. Figured I'd let the battery charge overnight. This morning, before work, I tried it again. Same thing -- very little strength going up, fine going down. I tried the manual crank just to see and that was also difficult going up but easier going down. From a charging standpoint, the fridge is running which it taking some power but I still think the battery should be charged (or charging) The electric jack is an Atwood MPD 71119, which research shows is discontinued. Not surprising since I bought the trailer used 5 years ago with the jack already installed. It still seems like a power problem to me but I'm happy to hear any suggestions if anyone has any.2.3KViews0likes11CommentsRe: Furnace is alway running
Ranger Smith wrote: I would look for a chewed wire somewhere. Maybe a mouse got to it. Did you remove the tstat wire at the furnace??? I did remove the tstat wire from the tstat, not from the furnace itself. And mice nibbles may make sense.. . we saw more signs of them this year than ever. Not bad, mind you, but my wife left a tupperware of dog food in a drawer and we saw a lot of droppings there (but they didn't get into the container, thankfully).259Views0likes0CommentsFurnace is alway running
We have a 2004 Starcraft Aruba that has been good for us for the past few years. This year, when we got it out of winter storage, the furnace kicks in when we have it plugged in. Regardless of the thermostat reading... even if we have the air conditioner on, the furnace keeps running! I even disconnected the furnace wire on the thermostat... no change. We don't need the furnace this time of year, so I removed the fuse marked "Furnace" and there it stopped! But our fridge happens to be on the same circuit. I read in other forums that this would be with a bad circuit board or power going to the furnace. We don't take our TT out when it cold so even having the furnace on it's a big deal for us. Anyway I've tried to figure out where I would even start and I'm coming up with where to look. I took off the outside panel behind the fridge and it looks like this: http://imgur.com/vq2a5Tw The cord that is plugged in on the right is for the stove (I think ) and has power when the fuse is removed. How would one get to the board to look at it? Or does anyone else have any (cheaper) ideas than a new circuit board in the furnace?1.4KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Black Water gauge always says full
I agree with pretty much what people said -- I need to learn to gauge my tanks. But I just got it so that's going to take me a while. And my sensor going out, seems to be a symptom of dirty black water tank. While I may never get the sensor working again, I should figure out how to clean the tank.367Views0likes0CommentsRe: Black Water gauge always says full
I figured I would get a lot of responses, but not like this. And this is why I love this forum. What I'm getting is that the non-working sensor is a symptom of a dirty black water tank. I didn't know that I need to clean the tanks! But it makes sense, especially with the black water tank not having any soap. And, because it's used, I can't count on it ever being cleaned. I wish I could take opnspaces' suggestion of filling it up and driving it around, but alas I can't drain my tanks at home, and the nearest one is a ways away. My plan is: * get a Camco RhinoFLEX RV Sewer Hose Kit, probably 15'. It has a clear end, and our trip to a music festival taught us the value of having a longer one than then the one we have now. * get a wand and clean the tank with that. I can't dump that at home, but it will loosen it up a lot. The sensor may actually work after that! * on our next outing (this weekend or two weeks from now) do a Geo Method of water softner and laundry detergent and will fill that take up with water and drive around the park a bit before dumping. Thanks for the help!218Views0likes0CommentsBlack Water gauge always says full
We bought a Jayco Jayfeather 254 last spring and it's really perfect for our needs. Lightly used, but in great shape. We've had it out a few times and want to take it out for many more. But we quickly found out that the gauge on the black water tank always says it's full -- even when it's not. Yesterday, when we were leaving camp, I left the black water drain open for 5 minutes after I didn't hear or feel anything in my sewer hose, and then dumped the gray water. After I was done with the gray water, I decided to do the brave/stupid thing and opened my black water tank without the hose. Nothing came out (thankfully!). Anyone have ideas why this would happen? The gray water gauge works fine.7.8KViews0likes29Comments
Groups
Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Mar 06, 202544,027 Posts
