YakFishMo
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Joined 16 years ago
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Re: Trailer Fire
colliehauler wrote: laknox wrote: Lyle Stock fire extinguisher is a joke to begin with. Do yourself a favor and purchase a larger capacity with a metal valve body instead of plastic. When I purchase a new RV I leave the fire extinguisher and mattress at the dealer and put my own in. The other thing is most people don't have a clue how to properly use it, P.A.S.S. method. Had to have fire training every year for 30 years at my job along with C.P.R. Unless the fire is in the incipient stage your best to get out. Fumes are extremely toxic. Exactly right. The fire extinguisher that comes in our RV's might be able to extinguish an English muffin fire in your toaster, but I wouldn't rely on it for much more. I've used 5 pound extinguishers before and was amazed at how fast they empty. Buy the biggest extinguisher you can and buy more than one. I keep one by my bed because I'll have to fight my way out. Like Randy said, you would have to be Twiggy and a gymnast to get out of the emergency exit window. Remember, the heat smoke and most fumes are going to be high. You need to be as close to the floor as possible when escaping.542Views0likes0CommentsRe: Any electric brake experts here?
lynndiwagon wrote: To the OP, I wasn't questioning your ability to do the job, just the materials. I knew that, no worries! I figured someone would be thinking that, not necessarily you. Thanks for the info. After reading what JIMNLIN posted, I'm sure that I really need all new brakes. It irritates me that the so called experts sold me the wrong parts. It was the whole assemblies that I installed. I'm going to call them and give them an opportunity to make things right. If they don't, I'll let you all know where not to go!796Views0likes0CommentsRe: Any electric brake experts here?
Lynnmor wrote: Give it some time, my new Dexter brakes took a thousand miles to get up to full braking performance. The problem is the friction material that is used today to satisfy the green crowd. I did get nearly a thousand miles when we traveled from Jacksonville, FL to Berryville, AR. Then, we traveled from here is Arkansas to Cherokee, NC and back again. That's 2075 miles since the brakes were installed and they still won't stop. :(795Views0likes0CommentsRe: Any electric brake experts here?
donn0128, my brakes are adjusted like you said. Just a couple of clicks off of lockup. lwnndiwagon, I'm the one that did the work. I've done many a brake job over the years since about 1960 when I first started working with my dad. I replaced the entire backing plate with all of the pieces and parts. I know I have brakes adjusted properly. The guy that sold me the brakes said they are 5.2 to 6K brakes, but also said "they are the same as the 7K brakes". The receipt says 5.2 -6K. Rvpapa, I just went outside and checked and the wires are white. How do I find the right magnets now? The people where I bought the brakes don't sound too intelligent. The part numbers of the brake assemblies are 6400010 for the left and 6400036 for the right. Thanks for your help!795Views0likes0CommentsAny electric brake experts here?
Hey guys. I had a Dexter "never adjust" brake come apart last December. A trailer repair shop told me that was a common problem and I should replace all my brakes with manually adjustable brakes. He sold me brakes rated for 5.2 to 6K and said they were the same brakes as the ones for 7K. They are 12" X 2" like I had, but they don't have much stopping power. Could it be that the magnet does not have as much magnetism as the 7K magnets? I wish I saved the old ones, but I did not. I called the distributer where I got the brakes and they tried to tell me the drums were worn and that magnets are not the problem. I have less than 5,000 miles on the drums and no noticeable wear. Granted, I didn't measure them with a mic, but I've seen enough brakes in my day to know they aren't worn beyond spec. Also, I always have my exhaust brake on when driving and try not to overwork the brakes. Before changing the brakes, I ran my controller at about 4. Now, I have it on 10 and cannot lock the brakes even when manually applying them. They are all properly adjusted for a light "scrubbing" and all magnets work. While jacked up, I spun each wheel and had my wife apply the brakes and each locked up. What are y'alls thoughts on this?6KViews0likes21CommentsRe: Nasty Bearing Failure
MPI_Mallard wrote: YakFishMo wrote: Why is it that camper bearings need repacking? Cars go hundreds of thousands of miles and don't need repacking. Does anyone know? My 2012 Cedar Creek has not had the bearings repacked. Am I on borrowed time? My mechanic came to my trailer on-site and pulled the remaining three hubs and pressed the new bearings in place and re-assembled everything and checked the whole she-bang for $150 (minus the cost of the bearings), I figure i'll have that done every five years when I swap out my tires and that should keep me on top of things! That's probably not a bad idea.440Views0likes0CommentsRe: Nasty Bearing Failure
Cummins12V98 wrote: YakFishMo wrote: Why is it that camper bearings need repacking? Cars go hundreds of thousands of miles and don't need repacking. Does anyone know? My 2012 Cedar Creek has not had the bearings repacked. Am I on borrowed time? The bearings on cars that don't need servicing are the sealed type. Yes you should have your bearings serviced by someone that knows what they are doing like a frame and axle shop. Thanks Cummins!440Views0likes0Comments
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